MG-Cars.com
MG Midget and Sprite Technical lowering with spacers BBS discussion at MG-Cars.net
MG-Cars.net
Welcome to our resource for MG Car Information.
Recommendations
Parts
MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.
|
|
MG Midget and Sprite Technical - lowering with spacers
| hi all, anyone got an idea what the maximum thickness of spacers i can get away with when lowering the front end with spacers? i understand that an inch of spacers drop the car 2inchs but im not sure how thick i can go. iv debumpered my midget 1500 and its boinged right up in the air. any input will be apprecated thanks. |
| roy judd |
| Roy, you should be able to go as far as you dare but use good thick wall tubing for the spacers and grade 8 bolts and nuts to make sure that the fasteners are strong enough for the load. You could use stacks of washers to establish the drop you want and then measure those and cut tubing to the correct length and install. Be careful of tyre rub on the wheel arch if you get too low though, the arches are a bit lower on the RB wings than on the CB wings to compensate visually for the increased ride height if I remember correctly. |
| Bill Young |
| Stating the obvious here, but remember that you'll need longer bolts. Make sure they're the right grade, etc. I have a Moss lowering kit that I bought years ago, but I have yet to install it. It came with the spacers and all required hardware. While I'd like to drop the CG up there, I'm concerned that I'd no longer be able to get my trolley jack under the ARB to the crossmember. keep in mind too that lowering will cause a minuscule change to your tracking, and it would be best to have it reset. Also, you'd probably want to lower the rear to match. Cheers, -:G:- |
| Gryf Ketcherside |
| Gryf - A poor excuse! I use a couple of pieces of 2x6 to drive the car up on so's I can get the jack under. I cut bevels on to make it easier, but then somebody always takes them for something else, so I generally get to use unbeveled ones! FRM |
| Fletcher R Millmore |
hi thanks for all the replys. i lowered it today using a spacer + 1 large nut on each corner so the car sits nearly 2 inchs lower. it looks the dogs danglys i think.
 |
| roy judd |
| and from the side. |
| roy judd |
you could see it better if i remember to add the photo i surpose!
 |
| roy judd |
| Roy, nice, but where did you get the soft-top from? Doesn't look original. Ben |
| B Elfrink |
| Looks more like a hard top... |
| Alex G Matla |
| it is a hardtop. i got it of ebay for a bargain £51, iv never seen another like it so any info would be appreciated. |
| roy judd |
| Hi Roy, What was your total spacer in the end 1" ? cheers Ben |
| Ben Brown |
| the spacer was just under 1 inch and i added a large nut to each one so spacer+nut was about 1 3/4 inchs.which lowered it about 3inchs. |
| roy judd |
| Or you could remain certain within the limits of safety and go buy some lowered springs to suit the application. AVO, Spax and Eibach all produce custom springs. Personally I would not trust the deflection of a spaced out spring plate under load. Maybe that's down to the amount of stuff I have broken in the past or maybe it just isn't technically a good idea. In my humble opinion spacing out the spring plate is equally if not more dangerous than cutting springs. Do it once and do it right. That does not mean spend a fortune in the process. But it's not worth the cost of having your car recovered from a hedge and a very swift escort to the hospital because you used £2 of tubing instead of £50 of springs. |
| PJ Moore |
| hey if you dont like it dont do it. as far as im concerned if it was half as dangerous as you make it sound A) cars with these on would not pass the very stringent uk mots and B) big companys like MOSS and MGOC would not sell them.and personally i dont know anyone thats been in a crash caused by spacers. |
| roy judd |
| Okay, so to prevent this from turning into a bitch fight as seems commonplace on here, the simple fact is that a small diameter tube used to space out a plate will mean you are applying more torque to the same area of the a-arm. It is a given that there will be movement of that spring plate during even a gentle Sunday drive. You have tried fitting a spring yourself I take it, and realised how much more pressure it take to get the inner bolts in than the outers. This is an obvious sign that the pressure is not constant over the entire spring plate and the amount of pressure varies along with the direction it is applied when the vehicle is moving up and down. So now i have explained roughly the forces being applied, it should now ring true that the longer the distance tubes used, the more torque and movement is being encountered by the bolt head. Which is inherently unsafe whether it is down to the head shearing, the hole opening or the nuts coming loose due to the movement of spring pressure and the subsequent wobble of the bolts and distance tubes. The UK does NOT have stringent MOT's, having spent nearly 7 years of my life in hampshire i can tell you that to pass a car through MOT is a breeze, and even easier again should you know the mechanic. i can guarantee you a 1"+ spacer on the front spring plates will NOT pass MOT in Northern Ireland where they truly are stringent and take great amount of pleasure in sending you home with a fail sheet for the stupidest of items. The items you see Moss and MGOC selling are 1/2" spacer tubes. The amount of deflection when force is applied to these will be much much greater than that of the 1"+ spacers mentioned above to bring the height of a 1500 midget down to something sensible. Your arguement for that is entirely void anyway due to the sheer amount of aftermarket products available for almost every make and model worldwide which does not meet any UK "E" marked approval and the majority are labelled "For off-road/race use only" allowing blame to be negated should the items be fitted to a road car. So back to the safe way of doing it............. |
| PJ Moore |
| why oh why do people like you feel the need to push your unwanted opinions on other people. you wouldnt be an MP by any chance would you? you do things your way and accept that other people have there own ways to do things. that way everyone is happy. So back to my way of doing it....... |
| roy judd |
| Don't get me wrong, I have no problem with other peoples opinions. But you asked the original question and i answered with MY opinion which you then told me was wrong and to butt out. As an Aircraft Engineer, with many many years of building fast road, race and rally cars behind me there are times when I feel that some things just aren't safe or just aren't sensible to consider. I see you have done the modification anyway, which is your choice and your prerogative. But when an answer (with technical knowledge) is given to your question, why must you insist on telling someone if they are right or wrong. I personally like to do things right, even when on an extremely tight budget. But I guess that's the engineer in me and not the back street mechanic. My profuse apologies if my post offended you. Pete |
| PJ Moore |
| Pete apology accepted,Roy |
| roy judd |
| Roy, you will find that lowered springs can come in increased spring rates, so as well as getting properly lowered springs, you will get better cornering too. Frontline do 360lb springs in 1" or 2" lowered versions, you can also get 400lb from Moss I think in 1"/2" lowered. I found the 360lb springs are excellent for road use, the 400's being a little too harsh for a nice sunday drive. I expect your old springs are quite tired by now. I bet you'd feel a big difference with some new 360 pounders. I used a lowering kit in the past, but even I prefer the proper kit. Matt |
| Tarquin |
| id better start sweet talking the mrs then i think. |
| roy judd |
| TBH,as a race car builder I am with PJ on this. Furthermore, having chatted it over with Peter May, I find he is of the same opinion. |
| Deborah Evans |
| perhaps it was just the way in which i worded it that he took offense to, as far as I can tell it was plain logic and common sense as I am sure it was with you too. |
| PJ Moore |
| Pete, I am not going to get into the whole 'who got offended by what' thing. Having said that, being from 'Norn Iron' myself I also often get censured because I call a spade a spade! Given the well known problems with Spridget wishbones cracking, over and above your apposite explanation, I would be even MORE wary of using lowering spacer tubes. With our race car I use short 600 in.lb springs with seam welded wishbones - even so the wishbones get Magnafluxed at the end of each season. Having a front suspension collapse is not conducive to my sleeping well at night! |
| Deborah Evans |
| 100% agree Are your wishbones stitched an inch miss an inch or are they a constant seam over the entire wishbone? |
| PJ Moore |
| Stitched (so as to minimise heat distortion) and then stress relieved. |
| Deborah Evans |
| It's very hard to find a set of springs that give the exact ride height you want. I've tried a number of springs of notionally the same spec and have had different ride heights. So I use a small spacer (up to ~1/2") to adjust the ride height a little lower; and a slightly longer set to re-set the height after fitting a K. Simple; instant results; no need to cheese off a supplier whilst you try all the springs in their store; you can make small adjustments to each side; proven over many installations over many years. I'd be interested to hear what are the causes of fails of the wishbone/pan that happen in normal (road) service, if anyone has any info. A |
| Anthony Cutler |
| in my experience they tend to fail mostly at the mounting lugs, however, when you look closely at an old a-arm, you will see the spring plate holes have elongated slightly. The elongation of these holes is accelerated by mounting the spring plate further away. Due to the thickness (or lack) of material at the mounting holes and the sheer determination of half the world to not use washers, you end up with a very dangerous contraption. As i mentioned above, the further you move the spring plate away from the a-arm, the more lateral pressure you apply to the bolt which will attempt to pivot on the surface of the a-arm. Over a period of time (obviously dependent on fittings and materials used) this will cause wear of the a-arm but more frequently a sheared bolt due to a mix of the pressures mentioned above and overtightening of the lower nuts in an attempt to prevent any movement. When the spring plate is mounted flush (as per standard) there can be no movement whatsoever as it is held securely against a mating surface. 1/2" spacers will normally be no problem as the surface area of the spacer is about the same as the distance it is lowering the plate. As such the chances of it causing a problem are very slim. When you start to go out to 1" and over then you begin to have problems. This could be resolved by having a spacer machined as a one-piece item that incorporates the 4 bolt holes and provides the spring plate with the same surface area to mate to as it would have done originally. I guess one way of looking at this is a cheap 4 legged table from B&Q. you put the four legs onto the tabletop, all nicely glued and screwed, then you turn it over and it turns into a wobbly horrible bit of furniture you would be worried about putting a glass of coke on. If you were to attach a thin sheet of ply to each side of the table from the floor to the top, you would then have a box which doesnt wobble. It is the same principle that was being explained in the young lads thread about rivetting a sheet into his floor as a temporary repair. Hopefully that makes sense. Pete |
| PJ Moore |
| deborah,im somewhat confused.you said having talked itover with peter may he dosnt recomend using spacers. however if you look on his website he clearly sells them. thanks for everyones input and i dont mean to sound like a grumpy git. |
| roy judd |
| pj, so your advise is to take the spacers of and get new springs. any idea what springs would give me the same ride height bearing in mind its a 1500 with the heavy rubber bumpers taken of. after everyone saying its dangerous im unsure about driving it now. before i fitted them everywhere i read said it was safe and the normal way to lower the front.even the man at mgoc tech said about doing it. ;-( |
| roy judd |
| MGOC Tech - surely that only goes as far as fitting and filling picnic baskets to the bootlid and advising on the nicest chrome accessory to show off on a sunday run :P As for your springs, well, honestly your best bet would be to ask the guys who have done the bumper removal before, but a 6 1/4" spring should get you close to where you want. |
| PJ Moore |
| Pete. i have to say im starting to think the same thing about MGOC Tech at the moment.iv asked there advise twice and it seems both times its been crap.i think im gona go the spring route just for piece of mind,otherwise im gona be so unsure il be driving like a granny all the time. so today im mostly gona be undoing what i did yesterday. oh well its all fun,right? right?? |
| roy judd |
| Yup, welcome to our world, where we spend most of our time re-engineering parts supplied by those that everyone seems to think are the top of the game. Right, well I guess I should hit the workshop and begin todays fun. I'll maybe get some sleep tonight |
| PJ Moore |
| pete iv just looked on peter mays website and there springs go by weight and length, they do 6.3/4in 600lb springs.is that what you mean? im very unsure by the weight bit. thanks roy |
| roy judd |
| there is also an option for custom springs I have no experience whatsoever with the 1500 apart from chopping one up with an axe, but I am guessing the 600lb spring wont be too bad in your 1500 in comparison to the 1275 shell just to the extra weight. I cannot guarantee anything on that though. But it will certainly bring your ride height down enough i should think |
| PJ Moore |
| il do abit more research on it before getting them. il give peter may engineering a ring at some point for advise. thanks pete. |
| roy judd |
| Hi Roy, Just to try and clear up the spring "weight" term Springs are not specified in terms of "weight" but in terms of "rate" When someone refers to a "600 lbs" spring they mean 600 lbs/in It has just become a common slang / misuse of the correct terms Assuming I correctly interpreted your saying: "im very unsure by the weight bit" For info my 1275 RWA Midget has nominally 270 lbs/in front springs (which I have checked / measured the rating of) Cheers Spencer |
| S Deakin |
| nope still confused spencer. i still havnt a clue what springs to use to lower my de-bumpered 1500 by about 2 1/2ins. i think i might have woken up abit simple today. |
| roy judd |
| Roy, it refers to the amount of weight (of the car) required to compress the spring by a certain amount. So 600lb(in) springs mean for every 600lb of weight acting downwards on the spring it will compress by 1 inch. The 6 1/4" springs should definitely be low enough. But they may be a touch too stiff for you, depending on what you want to use the car for of course. Also as a side note to that (and to confuse the matter further) you could end up over springing the car unless you uprate the dampers too. This would become apparent over sharp bumps where your shocks just cannot keep up with the work the springs are trying to do and as such you end up with a very "off-road" choppy and boingy (is that a word) feel to your ride quality - under springing your car makes it feel like a boat, very soft and wallowy. |
| PJ Moore |
| Roy, In order to properly calculate the required spring rate and length you would need to know where the various pick up points of the car and the corner weights, unsprung weight, current spring rates etc... Working on the basis that is not information you have or that someone can point to quickly my advice would be to contact a source which you have some confidence in based purely on the fact that have either done the calculations or empirically arrived at the solution. Being a 1500 may make this a little more difficult but your comment about contact Peter May (or somewhere someone else suggests) is I think your only solution. But be prepared for the fact that it may require a couple of iterations to get something you are happy with because: 1.) Your expectations of say a 'sporty' ride may be completely different to Peter May's (or whoever) 2.) The actual ride height you can get away with will depend on how / where you drive so the length could require a few goes. Even if you did know all the required info to have a go at calculating the spring properties as required by the first paragraph then 1.) & 2.) still apply you should just get closer as a start point. As stated above spring rate changes require damper properties to be changed in sympathy - again Peter May should be able to advise you how far you can go with spring rate before needing to match the dampers to the springs. Cheers Spencer |
| S Deakin |
| right spencer, enough from you, back to your own (wiring loom) thread with some pics please :D Pete |
| PJ Moore |
| "Deborah,I'm somewhat confused.you said having talked it over with peter may he doesn't recommend using spacers..." You are quite correct, I've just looked at his page and he lists spacers. Whether he still does them, rather than listing them I don't know. All I can say is that, when I was building our race Midget I had some long chats with him (I'd never done a Midget before - Spitfires and Ginettas were more my 'thing') and he definitely advised not using spacers. Close inspection of the nature of the Midget's front suspension convinced me (for the reasons PJ stated) that such were not a good idea. I would think that 400 in.lb by 8" springs would work well for lowering a 1500 Midget (albeit stay with the 5/8" ARB initially), but , as PJ says, you will probably have to go with uprated dampers (on our racer we use a monotube set up and the lever arms are merely retained as a top link). "Yup, welcome to our world, where we spend most of our time re-engineering parts supplied by those that everyone seems to think are the top of the game." So true! |
| Deborah Evans |
| Cheers for that Deborah, I wasnt 100% on what spring rates and respective spring lengths would suit and therefore didnt come forwards with any suggestions. However, I checked today and the rally/autotest car is running 600lb springs and the plates are in their standard position. My personal thoughts are that as a road car it handles and drive impecably. It is incredibly hard to fault how positive and overall nice it is. We manage 3 day rallies in it which cover the whole of ireland and all the awful tarmac it has to offer without being uncomfortable, so I am willing to stick my neck out there and say the 600lb springs would be the ticket for the 1500 and that is mainly down to their length and as such their ride height. The extra weight of the 1500 would also make them appear to be softer than they would be in the equivalent chrome bumpered car. Roy, hopefully between us it helps you make a decision and keep between the hedges ;) |
| PJ Moore |
| "Yup, welcome to our world, where we spend most of our time re-engineering parts supplied by those that everyone seems to think are the top of the game." Who is "everyone"? And "we"? I often find an upgrade part requires some level of re-work to fit to my satisfaction - and use judgement based on 35 years in engineering, even if it's only 10 mins use of a file. Sometimes I make my own parts. I think this is very common on this BBS - after all, this is a self-selected group, and some here have been modifying their Sprite/Midget since the late 50s (way ahead of me!). Also - "those at the top of their game" are supplying parts to a price; we have the luxury of spending as much 'unpaid' time as we like to achieve what we want. So welcome to the BBS world of enjoying/competing/modifying/sharing ideas on MGs! A |
| Anthony Cutler |
| Cheers Anthony, I am not new to the world of BBS's or Forums, having owned what was at one time the UK's largest Honda forum, but at 35 years you are certainly ahead of me. Does that make you feel old??? :P I am just on what feels like a self propelled mission against grossly overpriced products which can be produced with a little know-how and some common sense for a much much smaller cost and a huge sense of achievement. The bit that annoys me is those who cannot see outside of the MG box at the other options available to them, and when it happens to be pointed out to them, they insist on referring to the one or two known suppliers of overpriced, poor fitting parts that are advertised as direct fitment. I know there are others feel the same, but forgive me as i also enjoy a good rant. Hopefully I find others who share the same passion for creating things to their own standards and as such produce vehicles that are not only fit for purpose but also become almost artistic in their presentation. Pete |
| PeterJMoore |
PJ, I'm intrigued to read that your car is running 600lbs springs. I really would have thought they were race use only. But then again I have an A series and fibreglass front, so a fair bit lighter (75kg say?) than a steel 1500. maybe it makes a much bigger difference than I would expect. Roy, here's a suggestion. I think I have 2 pairs of 400lb springs, lowered by 2 inch. I don't really want to sell a pair to be honest as I might need them both, but lets try the BBS relay to get a pair to you, you can try them to see what you think, then relay them back. If you like them you can buy a pair of your own. Anthony seems to get up this way now and again, but now I think about it I think my inlaws are coming up from Cornwall at Easter, if they could meet up with someone at a motorway service station that should get them near to you. |
| Tarquin |
| Ya know, there is a world of difference between lowering a street car and lowering a race car. I agree that spacers would not be appropriate on a race car, but I don't have a problem with them on the street. OTOH, I think that an inch or more of spacers is a bit much. Fine for testing the concept, but not a good permanent solution. Since you removed the heavy bumpers, but still have the heavy engine, you might just try borrowing a set of front springs from an A-Series Spridget to see where that puts you. I note that the "competition" springs listed in the Moss USA catalog indicate 340 lb/in and 400 lb/in, so I rather suspect that the 600 would be a bit too stiff for actual use. David "you could always try being a ricer and slice off part of a coil..." Lieb |
| David Lieb |
| Pete When you're young, you feel that the population is divided into 2 categories: young people and old people (anyone over around 28 and clearly very boring!). Some years later, you realise that some people stay young, and other were always old, since it's all about attitiude: openness, willingness to learn new things, change habits, keeping doing things you enjoy, joining in with others, ... Every time I drive BRB I'm reminded what it was like to be a 22-year-old; seeing my wife reminds me of 2 19-year-olds; and visiting me old mate in Castleton takes some years off that. So feeling old is not something I do, same, I guess as many or most of the longer-term Spridget enthusiasts here. By all means create your perfect Sprindget. I think we're all (more or less) doing the same: some with a cheque-book; often with iterations we'd avoid with hindsight; and sometimes using learned/copied/pinched skills and ideas. DIY adds to the feeling of satisfaction - clearly in your case - but not everyone has the skill or time or even motivation you have. I look forward to seeing your Spridget sometime. A |
| Anthony Cutler |
| "2 19-year-olds" ah, those were the days.... |
| Tarquin |
| Just to stick my neck out.... I have used spacers to lower the spring pans on my car for the last 10 years. And on my previous 1500 for the 10nyears before that. And never had any problems with either of them. But, firstly I wouldn't be happy with spacers of anything more than about 7/16" for the reasons that Pete correctly explains. The longer the spacers, the greater the twisting moment on them. Secondly the spacers need to be solid collars (I turned up my own on the lathe)- I don't think that ordinary tubing would be right unless it has VERY thick walls. The ideal would be a spacing plate to take all 4 fixings, but then lowered springs would be cheaper....! I feel that there is enough tolerance in the design that spacers can work perfectly safely, if the lowering is kept within reasonable limits and the assembly is done correctly. Having said all of that, I am considering going for uprated springs. The front end bottoms out too easily and my tyres do catch the front wheel arch. And of course, if I do buy uprated springs I would go for shortened ones and take the spacers out. Guy |
| Guy Weller |
| tarquin thats a great idea. if your in-laws are coming from cornwall then i think they will drive up the A303 which is on my doorstep nearly. im 3-4 miles from stonehenge just of the A303. |
| roy judd |
| Roy, they are coming from Polruan, next to Fowey. They head up to the M5 on the A30, and then go north. A bit of a trek from you, but maybe there is someone Bristol/Taunton area who could carry them on? |
| Tarquin |
| any help would be great,thank you. |
| roy judd |
| when I was in my 20's before my Midget was built we used to remove the springs and chop a load off with an angle grinder. Ok this wasn't on an MG but a Vauxhall Ventora. It worked, passed 3 MOT's and handled like a dream. Before you do the "you can't do that" thing, we did, we all did, Some of us turned the rears upside down and chopped a lump of car tyre to use as a bump stop. We also used a set of the fattest tyres we could fit on the back to "shape the rear arches" and then go down a tyre size. Again, it worked. I'm sure it was "wrong" but we experimented. We didn't have the internet to swop ideas so we just did stuff. where has the suck it and see gone? |
| N Sayle |
| im not sure but some of the stuff my dads told me him and his mates used to do on there cars scares the life out of me. on 1 of his cars the floor was so rusty it was full of holes.so he cut the floor out and used plywood to build a new floor. and it passed the mot! .that was 40 years ago though. |
| roy judd |
| I saw an Anglia with an aluminium passengers floor. It was a recycled ( possibly illegally obtained ) STOP sign. I was help in with self tappers screwed in from the underside up so they would double as carpet grips. It's a shame we live in such a sterile time. And back then when baked bean tins were made of better metal they were used for all sorts from exhaust boxes (brazed together) to body repair panels. They killed it when they reduced the thickness and put ridges in them. Now its AH XXX part number and Moss. Remember weld locking the diff? that was fun!! Whats happened!!!! |
| N Sayle |
| "We also used a set of the fattest tyres we could fit on the back to "shape the rear arches" and then go down a tyre size." A man from my school of thinking when it comes to arch and bodywork modification. You have little to worry sir, those of us still in our twenties are more than happy to modify items by the cheapest method Normally in our case, the coilovers get wound down, out with the thick pipe and get your mate to drive the car back and forth until the arch takes the desired shape Works a treat, but it isnt directly related to the safe running of the car, so in my opinion hammers, grinders and any means necessary can be used. When it comes to mechanical parts, especially the four corners, cutting corners is not my thing. Unfortunately those with expendable income (the young) dont seem to be taking a love for classics in the same way they do for jap cars, drifting, and other characterless forms of transport. there is also a much much want for those same guys to pick up a spanner and learn to fix their own cars. As such it is also unfortunate that there is relatively low amounts of new blood coming into the MG scene to keep all you old folk on your heels :P |
| PeterJMoore |
| PeterJMoore . . I was cleaning my car for a local classic car show tomorrow when a kid on his mountain bike (about 10 years old) stopped and asked me if my car had the Triumph engine!!! My jaw nearly hit the ground. After about an hour of chatting with him it turns out that his Dad is bringing a 105e and a Pop to the show. There is hope for the young. I totaly agree with you on kids today, its all about buying add-ons and blue LED's. OK!! BACK TO THE TOPIC > > > > ROY, I am inspired by your car and will be removing my rubbers very soon. Not that I dislike RB cars, my last GT was RB. But I would like the ride height lower. Did you mount the grill directly to the flat bumper mounts? My car has brand new wings so I will be brazing (yes I can braze) in panels to cover the holes rather than replacing them. I really would like some advice on the best option for safe lowering. back off the topic . . . I have a couple of 1 1/2" SU 4" Trumpets that won't fit my carbs if they are of any use to someone. These are not the modern nasty spun alloy ones but oldies. I am looking for a toggle switch type dash because I cannot stand the rocker type switches, any takers?  |
| N Sayle |
| when you take the rubber bumpers of you will be left with a bolt poking out of the mount on each side right where you want to mount your grill.what you will need to do is carefully select a large hammer and whack the bugger hard on the nose and itl go back insid the mount.then you have a nice flat mount to fit your grill to.i made the grill from a bit of wire mesh. |
| roy judd |
| nice one! same as the BGT. I bought some really nice ali grill plate from Halfords the other day. Should look good. do you have a picture of the back end? |
| N Sayle |
| no but i can take a couple and post them.im planing on getting a set of the quarter crome bumpers for the back to cover the mounting plates.(if i can find some). |
| roy judd |
| Roy gimme a oouple of weeks, i may have some for sale ;) Much much nicer than the full width bumper IMO |
| PeterJMoore |
| that would be great peter.thanks.and yep im with you on them looking nicer then the full width. |
| roy judd |
found a photo of the back.its not quite the same now but abit.the numberplates moved and its got a number plate light.il take a beter photo when i can.
 |
| roy judd |
| Would be nice if you can lose the blatant obviousness of the original bumper mounts there. Do you not find it less planted feeling to drive now the bumpers are off??? |
| PeterJMoore |
| pete ,its a diffrent car to drive in all aspects since the bumpers came of,from handleing to proformance. if i cant get some quarter crome bumpers then il no doubt end up cutting the bumper mounte out and welding a flush panel in there place. the cars a long way from finished.(arnt they always!) |
| roy judd |
| i'll get a definite on those quarter bumpers for you asap then ;) |
| PeterJMoore |
| that would be appreciated thanks pete. |
| roy judd |
| pete if you cant get me on here then email me.cheers |
| roy judd |
| This is a great thread. I think it demonstrates the willingness of members of this BBS (mg enthsiasts club) to help each other get more enjoyment from their Spridgets. We certainly have a unique experience here and should resist all those that try to change it. I along with others have been here a long time and have found the advice and friendship here second to none, (well most are friendly!) Those who come here and give free advice and other things are true enthusiasts and long may it continue. Hope you get sorted Roy and welcome to all. |
| Robert (Bob) Midget Turbo |
| bob,as i newcomer i have to admit to being quite pleasantly surprised at the willingness of everyone to give help and advice. the midget world is indeed a nice one. |
| roy judd |
| [quote=Bob] This is a great thread. I think it demonstrates the willingness of members of this BBS (mg enthsiasts club) to help each other get more enjoyment from their Spridgets. We certainly have a unique experience here and should resist all those that try to change it. I along with others have been here a long time and have found the advice and friendship here second to none, (well most are friendly!) Those who come here and give free advice and other things are true enthusiasts and long may it continue. Hope you get sorted Roy and welcome to all.[/quote] I do agree whole heartedly BUT, i think the BBS software is pants, especially when there are so many "proper" forums available and due to all being based upon a database, you cn transfer between them, that way no information on here would be lost. The ease of use of the other forums is much much easier too. Anyway, back to business, just my 2p |
| PeterJMoore |
| i newcomer i have to admit to being quite pleasantly surprised at the willingness of everyone to give help and advice. the midget world is indeed a nice one. I just copied and pasted what Joy Judd said saved me typing much the same. This BBS has all the stuff that the Haynes manual leaves out. Its brilliant!!!! Went to the show, 99% of the car owners had perfect cars that live in a garage and know the part numbers of the fixing screw for the parcel shelf!!!!!!!! hmmmmmmmmmm.... Anorak Alert!!! However I managed to pick up a pair of TEX mirrors with the bases for 50 pence! already fitted. What was the subject? Ah yes, lowering RB cars. Back off the topic with a porn photo, god I need to get a girl friend!!!!  |
| N Sayle |
This thread was discussed between 23/03/2010 and 28/03/2010
MG Midget and Sprite Technical index
This thread is from the archive. The Live MG Midget and Sprite Technical BBS is active now.