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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Mating Engine and Gearbox

Hello all,

Now that my clutch problem is (hopefully) solved, it's time to put the works back together. Last time I did this with the engine on a stand, put the gearbox on a workmate bench, and simply rolled the engine stand up to it. Then it was just a matter of putting a few securing nuts and bolts top and bottom to keep everything in place until i could put the rest in.
My stand is on loan (of course, now that I could use it), so the engine is hanging by chains on the lift, and I need to finish this myself (most likely).

Has anyone found a good method of offering the gearbox to the engine without putting the weight on the input shaft?

Thanks, as always.

Al
ah harad

Not easy with the engine dangling: you should place it on the ground or bench.

A
Anthony Cutler

A,

Agreed. I can put it on the ground, but they're different heights. I'm wondering if I just can't put the gearbox on a bench and then lower the engine to proper height and push it onto the input shaft. Am I overthinking this? I tend to do that.

AL
ah harad

I generally pick up the transmission and shove it into place. There are alignment nubs(?) that will avoid loading the input shaft while you get one of the top bolts in. Of course, if you have a 1500...
David "yes, you are over-thinking" Lieb
David Lieb

As david says
just put them on the ground an shove them together
has always worked for me wit 1275 an ribcase (ribcase not heavy)

Onno Könemann

Take the top center stud out of the engine, screw in a 3 or 4" long one - a long bolt with the head cut off , slide the gearbox over the stud, put the two nuts on the other two studs.

FRM
FR Millmore

Gents,

Mine's a 1500. Not very heavy as well. I guess the "drag it on the ground" method would work as well. Of course, being me, I'll have to use a level to be sure of horizontal consistency between the parts, as well as taking into account the effects of temperature and barometric pressure on the metal, and there is the touch-up painting to cover any scratches that may occurr in the process...Ok just having some fun (I'm not THAT bad). I'll try it the suggested way. Thanks!

Al
ah harad

Use the stand/chain to support the box whilst you fit, if your like.

A
Anthony Cutler

Al good to hear you are not as bad as Prop ;)
Onno Könemann

Onno,

Well, if you put aside the fact that I only drive the midget on days with low solar flare activity (because as EVERYONE knows, large solar flares cause a disturbance in the molecular action of the rubber bumbers...and causes the radio to only play disco hits of the 1970's...yucck!), then I guess I'm not as far gone as I thought:)

Al
ah harad

LOL!
Onno Könemann

I always put the tranny on a table top, or this last time on my rolling tool cart, and man handle the engine chained up on the crane into place and bolt it up.

easy and sleazy as my former girl friend.

Prop
Prop

The reason for overthinking this simple job is that I want to avoid any stress on the clutch disc or pressure plate caused by input shaft not going in straight and fully weight supported. I've seen
the damage this can do in others cars and don't want it in mine. Thanks for indulging my OCD. If you think this is bad, you should've seen how intent (read: crazy) I was getting the engine perfectly balanced and blueprinted. The result, I must say, is a very sweet mill!


Prop: sorry about the ex..,sounds like you 're better off without;)

Al
ah harad

Al, I've used the long stud method before and it does work well to both releive the pressure on the input shaft as well as your arms while you get the splines to align. Prop, that's no way to speak of such a fine young farm animal, she was good to you! LOL
Bill Young

I must've taken an extra stupid pill this morning! Do you mean screwing in a long bolt or two into where the top gearbox bolts go onto the engine rear plate? I assume they would act as upper "guides" for joining, and would support the geabox until a few bolts are installed, then they are removed and the remaining upper and lower nuts and bolts are put in place. Correct?
Feeling sheepish, but just want to be certain. Thanks!

Al
ah harad

At's what I said, way up there!

FRM
FR Millmore

You've got it Al, install then remove and install the correct bolts when the rest of the transmission is up and tight. To make all this easier I generally have a couple of long bolts made up, heads cut off and a slight radius ground at the end to help guide the bellhousing over. I then saw a notch across the end so I can use a standard screw driver to remove them once the trans is in place.
Bill Young

Luckly she was only cheating on me with her husband, I guess thats understandable. has it been 12 years already! LOL.


That long bolt method works a gem, esp. if the tranny is in place in the tunnel and you cant get that last 2 inchs to make the tranny and engine mate up. as on my work truck.

Prop
Prop

FRM and Bill,

Got it! Thanks for the "screw slot "idea. The bolts are 5 1/2" long...should be puh-lenty!

Had no idea how hard it was to fine a 3/8x24 fine long bolts in Philly. Everything was a 16 coarse.

Will give it a go when I get home.

Prop, so you're the "other guy" eh? Why I'm shocked...appalled...and impressed!

Al
ah harad

This thread was discussed between 18/11/2009 and 19/11/2009

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