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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - measurements?
Well, before mending to the rust on the sprite I thought that I might want to check that the body is straight ant that everything is aligned. So where and how do I go about measuring this on the body shell to get an accurate reading? Thanks Alex |
Alexander Sorby Wigstrom |
Alex this is a data measuring diagram for a mark 1 midget or a Mk2 Sprite but I'm sure the measuring pints it shows could be used on any Spridget You may be able to open it up enough to see the numbers, my feeble eyes cant work that well on my screen, sorry But in any case all you really need is to check the measuring points across and long the chassis points to se if there is any distortion Hope this is of use |
Bill1 |
All you realy need to do is check if all measurements are equal. check longditunonal cross and diagional lines from suspention point to suspention point. If all is equal (with sensible allowances) you should be fine |
Onno K |
The way I checked mine last time around was this: I set up the body tub on axle stands over a level floor (checked with spirit level) I used wedges and spacers to make sure that the body was set level. Then, using a short plumb line I transferred various points from the bodyshell to the floor, marking with pencil crosses. I used the points shown in Bill's drawing, plus a few other obvious points. Then I connected opposite pairs of marked points with diagonal straight lines. If all is well, these crossed lines should all produce intersections along a single centre line down the length of the car. Using diagonals like this amplifies any errors so it is easy to see if anything is not quite right. Of course the problem is what to do if you do find something out of alignment. That is where the fun really starts! |
Guy |
Bill That alignment sheet is really good reference, And if you'll ever need the numbers here they are A-A (465.2mm) B-B (465.2mm) C-C (279.4mm) D-D (952.1mm) I could only read it in mm since the fractions are just to small to see. My first thought was to do as Onno suggested, but since I suspect that the car might be crocked I thought I'd check here first.. Thanks a lot as usual guys! |
Alexander Sorby Wigstrom |
Right click on Bills picture, and select save image as, on your desktop or whereever. Then open in your favourite software and expand. Inches are A-A (465.2mm) 18.5 inch B-B (465.2mm) 18.5 inch C-C (279.4mm) 11.0 inch D-D (952.1mm) 37.5 inch |
Lawrence Slater |
Interesting to see the chassis like that in it's context. Especially when you cut a chunk out to put in a Type 9 Ford g/box.
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Lawrence Slater |
Lawrence, I don't see why that was necessary? What I do to my car really is up to me.. if you don't want a type9 in your car, I couldn't care less... And FWI The crossmember got nothing to do with if it's crocked.. Since it's been wrecked HARD and I suspected it being crocked before I cut it and if it is I wish to correct it before sending the shell of to paint.............. |
Alexander Sorby Wigstrom |
Done properly, the bolt in cross member below the floor level when fitting a T9 should do a good job of replacing the missing strength. After all, it pretty well mimics the design method used on MGB shells as from the factory. |
Guy |
You must be having a bad day Alexander, you're chewing on the wrong end of the stick old son. :) How you interpret that as a dig at you, I honestly have no idea. ---- How do you? As to what you do with your car, -- did I say there was something you shouldn't be doing? And for your information Alex my dear boy, I put a type 9 in my car, AND cut the chassis EXACTLY in that fashion, around 12 years ago. --- And put a bloody great plate of metal under it, to give it a bit of strength back. It doesn't look as elegant as the box cross member that I cut out though, IMHO, but it sure works. That pipe and in a put smoke it, -- springs to mind. :) |
Lawrence Slater |
This thread was discussed between 08/02/2012 and 09/02/2012
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