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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Metal prep and epoxy primer
|I'm stripping the body back to bare metal before priming. Is there anything I need to apply to ensure all rust has gone (at a microscopic level). I'm using 80 grit on a pad sander to prep the metal. (I've been hearing about "metal ready")|
Also I've had problems with etch primer and filler in the past. Is there an epoxy primer I can use that does not contain isocyanates?
|All I can offer is a cheap easy way to remove the paint to bare metal...id be leary of 80 grit unless its just to remove actual inbedded surface rust|
House paint store and get a gallon of acetone, some chem gloves, and some plastic scrapersthen to gen store (walmart ) and get a big stsck of green kitchen srubbing pads, and a bunch of rags,
Nest.. poor lots of acetone on rag appky it to one panal like your washing in circular motion cover it completely, in 2 minutes the soak the green pad with acetone and just scrub the the paint off, with just a swirlling motion...repeat to panal is paint and primer free, wash off with garden hose and dry, move to next panal and repeat
I stripped my entire car in 6 hours over 2 evenings down to bare metal simple an easy and no grinding/sanding marks in the metal...it even takes out bondo with aittle extra work and the plastic scrapers
I used cheap rattle can primer to temporarly protect the metal from rusting then just washed it off with with acetone before in the same way before I did the good primer and paint
|Prop and the Blackhole Midget|
|When I did mine I used paint and rust strip discs in a grinder (ebay item 261502926584 is the actual item & supplier) and this worked well. Just avoid any sharp edges and screws.|
After that it was treated with some POR15 Metal Prep (left over from the TVR chassis restoration). This removed any fine rust and stopped further rusting while the rest of the body was stripped & repaired.
After that I used International Interprotect grey epoxy primer. This was thinned and sprayed on and has adhered very well. In fact it feels like it adheres too well where you're trying to get to bare metal for an earth point. Most chandlers seem to stock International paints and being in Norfolk we're generally never far from one.
Thanks for that. Looks like I need some Metal Prep. They make boats in my village (Brooms) and a few chandlers here as well I suspect. Where in Norfolk are you?
I'm near Mulbarton so not a million miles away. Just over 3 years ago I mixed a bottle of red wine with a session on eBay and ended up winning a rusty wreck. It took nearly 3 years and 3 months to get it on the road again but not until I'd dropped a 4AGE engine into it. Managed to get 1 week of driving before the fuel pump died so have been redoing the fuelling for the last 2 weeks. Hoping to have it running again tomorrow.
|Not bad jed (I), :-) good looking car|
|Prop and the Blackhole Midget|
|Sorry, I'm a bit late to this one, but there's a magical product called Kephos (or Paint Grip 253, or whatever they're calling it this week) made by Henkel. It's a solvent-based adhesion promoter and phosphating solution, you simply wipe it onto your panels when you've finished stripping them and it will clean up any flash rust, as well as protect the steel from further corrosion and finger marks. You can paint right over it, or store your cleaned panels for up to 6 months without further rusting.|
This thread was discussed between 28/06/2014 and 02/07/2014
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