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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - MG Midget 1500- Running rough

Hi All

This is my first post. I've only just registered.

Im having some trouble with my MG 1500, 1978. A few days ago I was giving it a run as its not been used much over the winter. The battery had become flat so I decided to leave it running while cleaning it. The engine was rebuilt last year so sounds rather nice and smooth. Then, it started to sound like it kept missfiring, just every now and again. If I reved it up, it would judder a little. After a few mins, it conks out. This is getting much worse now. Its running real rough on idle now and even when I rev the engine it keeps missing and almost cutting out. I've checked the leads and plugs, they look to be ok. I've check in petrol in the carbs and the floats do not feel stuck. Im not very clued up so dont really know what to look for next. Any ideas?

Thanks
James


J Tingay

Hi James, welcome. Its nice to "meet" someone new.

Nigel will tell you that if it hasn't been used much it needs a service which is probably true, and this would probably fix the running fault as a part of the process. But it won't necessarily identify the fault so you may not learn which bit of "servicing" actually fixed it. So nothing learnt in the process! Anyway, sorting out and fixing a fault yourself, using logic and being methodical, can be very satisfying!

With a misfire I always do 2 simple checks which help to narrow down the fault, if only by elimination. First is to watch the rev counter as it is misfiring. If the needle flickers violently, then the fault is with the low tension side of the ignition circuit. Points, coil, ignition switch or any part of the interconnection wires and connections. Second easy check is to pull the choke out as it is misfiring, maybe half out. Does this improve the running, or make it worse? This can indicate a fuelling problem such as faulty fuel pump, blocked jets, low fuel level in the carbs.

Neither test fixes anything, but will give extra clues as to what is wrong and both are done without even leaving the driving seat!

My next diagnostic check would be to remove one spark plug at a time in turn, when the engine is running. Use insulated pliers. As each one is removed it should run even worse! If any one of them doesn't make it run worse then you have identified the "lazy" cylinder and are close to pinpointing the fault!
Guy Weller

Hi Guy, thanks for getting back to me. I shall run though the tests you have suggested. I did have a little play around with the choke but did not seem to make any difference. Maybe my use of word "misfire" is not really the best way to describe it. It sounds more like fuel struggling to get through and its getting worse the longer I run it. In the mean time, I'll try your suggestions and post my findings.

Thanks
James
J Tingay

Check your points and condenser. If its not them then come back. But its probably them. I spent ages recently trying to be clever and ignored the points and condensor and it was the points. ITS ALWAYS THE BLOODY POINTS.

You could also check the rocker cover to carb breather pipe for leaks... that will cause a misfire.
C L Carter

Yep, could well be points! But could be many other things too. But if it is points, then the rev counter needle will flicker so you will know before you even get out of the car to investigate!

James, if pulling the choke out didn't seem to make any difference, then it is unlikely to be fuel related. The theory being that pulling the choke out lowers the jet so that if the fuel in the float chamber was low due to a blockage or faulty fuel pump, then the lowered jet would compensate and it would run better again for a moment or two at least.
Guy Weller

Guy: I guess you mean remove one spark plug LEAD in turn while the engine is running!
Your suggestion because of a typo would be rather hazardous in the extreme.
G Williams (Graeme)

Ho hum! Well spotted Graeme! I don't think it would be dangerous, but it would be noisy. But you are right, plug lead is what I meant.
Guy Weller

Guy: not sure what would have happened if the plug had fired as the last bit of thread disengaged (or even just on the compression stroke).
G Williams (Graeme)

Thanks for all the suggestions. Lets hope its just the condenser then. I'll have a look tomorrow. What is it I would actually look for? or would I just replace it as they are cheap to change.
Thanks
James
J Tingay

Yes, that would be dangerous with the engine running. I was thinking that there is no problem running an engine with a plug already removed. It makes a noise, that's all. But I did say (unintentionally) to remove a plug with the engine running. And that would NOT be a good idea!!
Guy Weller


One can also use one of those remote temperature sensor guns - the laser spot guided ones. If you happen to own one. They show a lower temperature of a "lazy" cylinder when pointed at the head. But I was trying to keep diagnostics to the very basic, simple and low cost methods.

I just hate the approach of simply changing parts at random on the off chance that you might cure a fault!
Guy Weller

James
don't replace non-service items like points and condensers until you've thoroughly checked them

as Guy has already put do a step by step diagnostics

the points gap tends to need checking soon after they're fitted, say within 500 miles, because of possible dissy wear or lack of lubrication (see Drivers Handbook)

if the points and/or condenser were fitted at engine rebuild then bear in mind the build quality a lot of recent points and condensers is rubbish so buy from somewhere decent like the Distributor Doctor - http://www.distributordoctor.com/

if the condenser was changed then try putting the previous one back on if it is an old original looking one but not until you've diagnosed the condenser as being the problem

BTW a service of the car will find the points if not gapped right or pitted or bust (see the Driver's Handbook)

on a rebuilt engine you've probably already done 2 or 3 (or more) oil and filter changes but the rest of the car also needs servicing (much of which is just checking, cleaning and lubing), see the Driver's Handbook for details of how to do the work and the schedule

leaving the car running may not be enough to fully recharge your battery - if you have any running problems, difficulty starting or electrical problems with the car a low battery will not help so

if you've not got a copy of the Driver's Handbook then get one and read it as they are jolly useful - (Ref: 0058) - http://www.mgocshop.co.uk/catalog/Online_Catalogue_Handbooks_5.html









Nigel Atkins

Hi All

I've not been home from work until after dark so not had a chance to have a look yet. But thanks for all the advice. I will report back.

Thaks
James
J Tingay

"Home after dark" is one of the best diagnostic opportunities! Run the engine with the bonnet open and as little light as possible and look for stray sparks and little bluish flickerings, especially around plug leads and dizzy cap. Only takes 5 minutes and if you spot amything you can then come back to it in daylight later, but at least know where to look.
I still think that closed up points is the most likely culprit.
Guy Weller

Hi

Right, Could not see any sparks in the dark. Just been looking today and not really sure what I need to check on the points. I have got a video of the engine running, looking at the revs, you can see it dipping. The camera recording makes is sound real rough but that must be my camera. The MG actually sounds nice apart from the dipping sound.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pf19Ta6Y0Dc&feature=youtu.be



Thanks
James
J Tingay

Hi

Another video showing engine aswell as dipping revs.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yGEhJW16jBY&feature=youtu.be

Thanks
James
J Tingay

James,
as the engine bay is so clean it does at least mean things are easy to see but it might also suggest you don't drive the car enough and everything could be clogged up inside where things function

two points of note - what on earth is that yellow stuff under/around the carb dashpots (suction chamber/damper) lids??

and the stacked/staggered blue connectors/connection on the LT side of the coil ??

I suggest you sort those two things first and then fill your tank and go out for a long drive, get the car up to full running temperature the and drive it steadily without laboring it for 10 miles or so then find congestion free fast runs and really use the gears and accelerator for at least another 40 or so miles, dropping a gear or two and foot right down - or go on a motorway or dual and do t5he same - the Italian service

then see how it is the next day or so
Nigel Atkins

Hi

The yellow stuff around the carb dashpots are just labels saying to check hand book. Not sure about the blue connectors on the coil.

Just been for a hard drive. A few clouds of black smoke came from the back after a few pops of the exhaust. Its not easy to drive at the moments as the rev dips make it judder. I've looked at the gap point and set to 0.015 This has not made any difference. I also took the spark plugs out one by one. Each one out made it sound worse.

Not sure what to try next.

Thanks
James
J Tingay

Popping in the exhaust can be a symptom of an air leak in the manifold. Check the manifold to head nuts and the carb to manifold are all tight, and that those gasket seals are not damaged.
Guy Weller

might be worth checking choke is fully releasing jets beneath carbs
Andrew Dunn

>>The yellow stuff around the carb dashpots are just labels saying to check hand book.<<
yeah nice one but it's your car that's playing up not mine, am I wrong in guessing you might be under the age of 30, no worries you'll get there, keep going, you've got a couple more ideas to follow up, good luck
Nigel Atkins

>>yeah nice one but it's your car that's playing up not mine, am I wrong in guessing you might be under the age of 30, no worries you'll get there, keep going, you've got a couple more ideas to follow up, good luck<<

Hmm, you have lost me on this one!!

Anyway, going back to checking the choke. It does now seem to judder less if the choke is about 1/4 way out. I guess this is my next port of call.

Thanks
James


J Tingay

Hi

Gave it another run tonight and this time made no real difference with the choke in or out. I could not find anything loose around the manifold so maybe just getting a full service might be the best idea. Does anyone know the York area for a good MG mechanic?

Thanks
James
J Tingay

as Nicholas Parson's would say benefit of the doubt

I suggest you start another thread for good mechanic in York area as that will get more direct attention for that

as for work you could either have a diagnostic repair to this problem or a full service would probably pick it up as part of the service work

bear in mind a full service is for the whole car not just an oil and filter change or messy around with the carbs - the car needs regular servicing for important factors like, brakes, tyres, suspension, lights, windows and mirrors - the engine and its running is at the end of this list

the Driver's Handbook will give you details of the service schedule and how to do the work, if you haven't already got it see - (Ref: 0058) - http://www.mgocshop.co.uk/catalog/Online_Catalogue_Handbooks_5.html

good, close, in focus photos of the yellow on the dashpots, that coil connection and engine bay generally might help with your current problem
Nigel Atkins

Thanks Nigel, I'll see what I can do with regards to photo’s if I’m back in time tonight.

I’m genuinely confused about the yellow on the dash pots you have mentioned. I previously stated that the yellow is a label. I think it says “Check Handbook” or something to do with the handbook. Its worn and hard to read. Perhaps it actually reads “These need replacing” and it would solve my problem ;) I do actually have the handbook but its rather tatty so I’ll get around to replacing it anyway.

I’ll start a new thread to find a mechanic in York, it would be handy to know one as this is clearly not as easy as I hoped it would be.

Thanks
James
J Tingay

sorry James, my mistake, I thought you might be being a bit awkward as I'm renowned for always recommending to buy and read the Driver's Handbook

if your Handbook is an original one keep it as the reprints are an amalgamation of several years of models

I thought about it later and wondered if those labels were on the car when new, not that I've ever heard of it

I also wondered how those labels are held on and if they might interfere with the holes in the damper rod caps

the dashpots should have either 20SAE oil or 90 weight gear oil or engine oil (as per Handbook) filled just above the shoulders of of the dashpot (just at the start of the neck

I can't remember if one of those dashpots is out or very low on oil if it might cause the smoke from running too rich because of lack of damping (or is it the other way round) - anyway it'd pay to check the caps are vented and oil level about where it should be
Nigel Atkins

Morning all

Just thought I'd have another go at sorting my MG out. Decided to check the oil level and noticed how thin it was. It smells like petrol is in the oil! Could this be part of my problem or have I found another problem?


Thanks
James
J Tingay

listening to that video the sound is exactly like my 1275 when there was an air leak around the throttle linkage where the butterfly spindles fit into plain bearings in the carb bodies. With the engine running spray some WD40 or similar at the spindle ends, and see if the revs. drop.
When I did it to mine, the engine stopped. Fitting some rubber bungs over the spindle ends cured it, but of course I really should fit new bearings.

Dave
Dave Barrow

James,
if it is petrol that is not good but have you replaced any 'running-in' oil yet (and filter)

since the engine was rebuilt last year how many miles has it done and how many oil and filters changes in that time?

was the oil thin looking last time you checked and when was this roughly?

if the oil is thin and if it was standard 20w/50 engine oil I'd use flushing oil and do a thorough oil change by draining the engine oil as hot as possible for as long as possible

if, if it is petrol in there you need to stop it - further investigations, question and answers for that
Nigel Atkins

Hi

Nigel, I've done just over 500 miles since the engine was rebuilt. I planned to get it booked into my local garage for an oil change the day I started to get this rough running problem. I have topped it up a few times with 20/50 but it was never this thin a few weeks ago when the problem first started. The initial problem was just a few dips in the revs but now it’s so erratic I can’t even drive it. Something else I also noticed today is the spark plugs are very back and sooty. I wire brushed them a week ago when it was suggested that I should look at the plugs and points. I’m sure it hasn’t helped that I took the dash pots and carb lids of either. I have a bad feeling my inexperience tinkering may cost me some money!

Thanks
James
J Tingay

Dave, Thanks for the info. I'll give that a try tomorrow.
J Tingay

over the past 500 miles did you baby the engine or use oil protection additives

or did you threat her like a bit#h and drive her hard and rough... complete reckless abondon

if you did A. im afraid you may have a classic case of cly glazing...

cly glazing is what happens when you baby a new engine and use preservitive additives.

the rings dont get the abuse they need to scrape and wear into the cly walls and seat themselfs in...thats why there is a strong smell of fuel in the oil and the plugs are all oily

is this the source of your problem??? I cant say, but id certianly do a compression check

that said... this detour does not excuse you from following a logical and methodical approach to the issue at hand

focas on one system at a time like a sniper rifle...not a shot gun approach

prop
Prop and the Blackhole Midget

The oil can become thinned if petrol has been draining into it - in which case the oil will smell strongly of petrol.
Petrol could be draining in if the jet is set too low - either from wrong jet adjustment, or more likely because the choke mechanism is sticking with the jet in the lowered, enriched position. This means excess fuelling when running, misfires, hunting, sooty plugs and black exhaust smoke. But it also means that when you stop, if the jet remains stuck down then it is lower than the fuel level in the float chamber and fuel will seep through and down into the cylinder where it will slowly drain pass the rings and into the sump oil. Its one reason why you should never leave the car parked up with the choke pulled out!
Guy Weller

james...

I just listened to the video... im watching it from from my smartphone

my opinion...its sounds mechanical.. I truely hate to say that... I hope someone can prove me wrong

the behavoir of the tach did not indicate to me that it was electrical, and when its not making that chunking noise it sounds smooth and consistant...so I dont even think its fuel related

I did hear a bit of a whine....

make sure that the dissy is secured In to the block and hasnt come loose or has some kind of play

check your radiator for the appearnce of oil...brownish green clumps and thick goo

after that id check the valve lash adjustment and that they are moving freely and not sticking / binding up...check that the rockers are operating as they should and that the timing chain hasnt lost tension or slipped

after that id drop the pan and check the thrust bearings... make sure the shop that built the engine didnt reuse the old ones

check the torques specs on the connection.rods and the crank mains and check all the protrusions of bolts comming into the block that there not hitting



Prop and the Blackhole Midget

wow...I just learned something new

try this...hook up a vacume gauge to the intake manifold , start the car and watch the needle....if the needle dosnt dance around or vibrate...just stays steady.... then the misfire is NOT a result of any thing mechanical....so.thats a great test, im writting that one down


a new way to check for vacume leaks ive never heard of this but it sounds plasiable...

buy a cheap cigar that gives off alot of smoke... with the engine off ....blow cig smoke into the intake system until the smoke comes out the vacume leaked area... whola you found your leak...I have to try that one

prop
Prop and the Blackhole Midget

James,
a) have you got that Handbook and given it your best bedtime reading :) - seriously it will help you

what sort of running-in and oil change schedule did your engine rebuilder give you?

you're doing the right thing by using the car, the more you use it the better it will get and the more teething problems you'll find and pass and the better the car will get

the engine and carbs although reasonably important to you at the moment are not very important overall, brakes, tyres, steering, suspension, lights, windows and mirrors are more important and will improve with frequent use of journeys of at least 15-20 miles

regular servicing and frequent use will get the car running well and make it reliable and very enjoyable to use

see - Driver's Handbook for servicing schedule and how to do it

I'm all for paying others to do the dirty work I ONLY enjoy driving the car but even I can do an oil change but first by all means get the car properly serviced and set up by good professionals - but bear in mind there's having a service (oil & filter change) then there's a full and proper service to the whole engine, carbs and car (as detailed in the Driver's Handbook - I'm dropping hints again)
Nigel Atkins

nigal...

did you listen to both of james youtube videos he posted further up ???

im no paleontologist but im pretty sure topping up the window washer fluid and adjusting for proper tire pressure is not going to fix that clamity of fighting cats inside his engine block.

:-)

prop
Prop and the Blackhole Midget

Prop,
the post is a follow on from my earlier posts - I can never hear or see much from Youtube videos, the sound and picture quality isn't that high, just think of whenever you see a, particularly phone, recorded video on proper broadcast quality TV transmission

so I couldn't really hear what was what and if I did I very much doubt I'd know the cause, my wife is better at hearing and identifying car noises

I could add nothing to the suggestions already made including yours

I'd also asked a question and have to wait for a reply rather than speculate on the answer ;)

and from another thread it looks like James is taking the car to a professional mechanic
Nigel Atkins

Right, MG is up and running and I don’t know how. Here is what I have just done.

1> Reset the gap in the Distributor cap.
2> Emptied and refilled the oil in the Dashpots.
3> Had a play around with the screws that control the revs on both sides.
4> Cleaned plugs again
5> Tapped everything I could see in the engine with a hammer to free anything up in case something was jammed. This also made me feel extremely manly and as if I knew what I was doing.

In answer to your question about oil change, the engine rebuilder said to drive steady for the first 500 miles then change the oil. I’m not sure on the oil currently in the engine. Looking through the Handbook, I see there is 3 types of service, A, B and C. I assume as its an engine rebuild I would start again from A?

I’m at a loss now as what to do. Should I just hope that the problems have gone away and a combination of all the tinkering advised by all of you has contributed to the correction of whatever the problem might have been, or do I get it straight into a garage for a service? I think possible a service is the best bet?
J Tingay

James,
What you have done so far is OK, but is not diagnosis as it doesn't clearly isolate a problem, a cause and a solution. However from what you have said I would suggest:
a) Oil thinned with petrol will very likely make an engine more noisy as there is insufficient lubrication to prevent metal on metal contact on bearings, tappets etc. This could explain the noises that Prop is referring to, and is BADS NEWS for engine wear. I would urgently drain and refill with the correct viscosity oil as further use will very probably do permanent damage. And anyway it is due for a change if you have done 500 miles since the engine rebuild. Do also change the oil filter at the same time.

b) You need to find out why fuel is getting into the oil as this is not an incidental issue to be ignored. It could well explain and be the problem that you are experiencing. I suggested earlier what I suspect is the problem as this also explains some of the other symptoms.

You need to check that the jets in both carbs are properly centred. Take the air filters off. With a finger through the open throat of the carb just lift the piston and let it drop again. It should fall fully down with a firm "clonk" noise. If it doesn't and it stops before it is fully down then the jet is not properly centred.

You also need to check that the choke is working properly. Get someone to pull and push the choke knob on the dashboard whilst you watch at the carbs to see what it does. You will see that it pulls the jets on each carb down to richen the mixture. They MUST both go fully up again when the knob is pushed in. If they are sticking, or if the inner cable on the choke is clamped on too short then that carb will run rich and produce the symptoms that you have already described.

In either case, then the carbs will need some resetting. This isn't "tinkering" which will do no good at all. It is following a proscribed series of adjustments in the right sequence so that at the end you KNOW that the carbs are properly adjusted. The procedure to follow is well documented in a number of places and all you have to do is follow the instructions.

Take a look at the technical information at http://sucarb.co.uk/technical-hs-type-carburetter-tuning-general and also look at the John Twist videos that Nigel has referred to earlier. I wouldn't at this stage start to get worried about glazed bores etc. I think that is just Prop's mind on entertainment hyperdrive as usual! ;-)
Guy Weller

Thanks Guy, Just something I’d like to add which may return some more answers. I have just been for few miles drive. It didn’t go too well. On my return, the car all of a sudden started to judder again as the revs dipped. I was unable to drive as it was so erratic. After calling for help from a friend, I showed him the problem by keeping my foot at about 3000 revs but the revs ranged from 500 to 4000 constantly dipping and raising and popping from the exhaust. Then as quickly as the problem started it went away and allowed me to drive home. Well, almost home, it started playing up as I got to my street. I have also noticed the rev counter takes about 5 seconds before it moves once I have started the car.

Is this all a sign that MG’s are not for me and I’ve bitten of more than I can chew or is this just the nature of the beast.

Thanks
James
J Tingay

also, when trying to start it again after it died driving down my street, the battery appeared flat but then it was ok again.
J Tingay

hey nigel....

you dont have to appologise to me....ill let you off this time hahaha

I was actually trying to be comical and not critical...it was pretty obvious you hadnt seen the you tube vid... so I was just teasing you on that bases



Prop and the Blackhole Midget

james...

not only would I not drive the car, I would remove the positive cable from the batt when your not around it

if you are going to an MG mechanic...dont mess with it any further...thats what your paying them for, and making there job harder only takes more cash out of your pocket

but id certianly pull the batt cable soon

my fear is based on a couple of your last commets this could be a wiring loom shoot or an ignition wire double ground

when the engine was running for 15 minutes or so... was the coil hot

keep a fire extingusher at the ready ..till this is fixed

just another thought...is there any residual mositure or corrosion in the cap and coil wire connection...id pull.th little screw that holds the coil wire in and have a look at the screw condition, the end of the coil wire and make sure there is no micro cracks/carbon trails in the dissy cap


prop
Prop and the Blackhole Midget

James,
you're just having a few problems now they will pass, so yes a midget is for you and no it isn’t really the nature of the Midget but it does require that the issues are sorted then the car is kept fully serviced, maintained and repair and used frequently then the car will become very reliable and great fun to drive

I think possible the lack of use which normally hinders the above might have helped this time until the issues are sorted

I think possibly you might have more than one issue, certainly as Guy has put the carbs and engine oil need sorting at least

I think it might be best if you start looking after the car once it has been sorted by a professional this time

or

you could continue yourself - reread the posts here, take information from the link Guy has given you and the Driver's Handbook and reread the posts on this thread and check on the car

if you do the oil and filter change yourself then see my note in an earlier post


– which brings up a point I forgot, you put you’d topped the oil up a few times already now that could be surprising on only 500 miles use even allowing for rebuild


I think the running issue could be something very simple but you need to do the problem solving diagnostics to find it

certainly having a fully charged battery in good condition helps at any time so if you get the chance check the electrolyte levels in all cells and fully charge the battery

service A B C are for 6,12 and 3,000-mile check/services for the whole car(it should say this on the page)

Prop,
Hi, no worries
Nigel Atkins

James
I don't know how relevant my experience of 1275 engine is to your 1500 but your first post describes symptoms I had with my Sprite when I first got it. Running smoothly for a while then when properly warm it would splutter a bit on acceleration then cut out. I checked the fuel system and changed most of the ignition system and it was finally cured when I put in a new, red rotor arm from MGOC.

I don't have an answer to the thinned oil though it prompts one one VERY off the wall thought - you do have the correct carburettors on board don't you? If I remember correctly, Triumphs, originators of the 1500 engine, used Strombergs. Strombergs look a bit similar to, and work in the same way as SUs but use a rubber diaphragm to provide a seal for the piston. This diaphragm has a habit of splitting. Many years ago I had SAAB with what was basically a Triumph engine that suffered like yours and was barely driveable thanks to a split diaphragm.

Probably of no use at all, but I thought I'd chip in just in case!

Colin
Colin Mee

look like SUs but should the choke cable be that tight and wrapped around the dashpot - does the choke operation fully release?
Nigel Atkins

my understanding is the single zenith stromberg was just on the USA market 1500s everyone else got the dual HS4s on the 1500s

prop
Prop and the Blackhole Midget

The coil was hot after my little drive yesterday. Not red hot, but hot. Would it be worth replacing this as a final attempt at fixing the problem myself? Or, as Prob has pointed out, I could just be making it harder for a mechanic to fix.
J Tingay

Coils get warm. Its what one would expect. But maybe not too hot to be able to hold firmly.

Did you try the simple carb checks that I suggested?
Guy Weller

Hi Guy. The carbs drop to the bottom. One was a little looser than the other until I refilled them both with oil. Now that the engine is cool, I’m not so sure its swamped with fuel, it seems to have thickened up a little.
J Tingay

as guy says... coils get warm..but you should be able to hold it comfortably

if it hurts to hold it for longer then 30 sec. thats a strong indication of an ignition issue

no... I would not replace the coil... I think its working fine, its something else thats affecting the coil. to make it heat up

at this point... id say its safe to say we have lost control of this thread... id take it to the shop or refocas back to a systematic logical diagnosis...going from system to system

we are currently in shotgun mode...not good, cheap, or time effiaciant

prop

Prop and the Blackhole Midget

I agree Prop. Diagnosing this problem on the ever changing information and lack of clear testing is like trying to nail jelly to the ceiling!
Guy Weller

James,
just mention that to the mechanic and see what he thinks

you could replace the coil yourself it's not difficult or expensive to do but it might be a total waste of money and time and where do yo stop replacing parts just on the off-chance

get the mechanic to do a full service and this should diagnose and find the problems anyway plus it will change your engine oil and filter and ask for tappets to be adjusted before setting up timing and carbs

you should think you've got a different car by the end of a full service - don't forget there more to a full service of the whole car that engine and carbs
Nigel Atkins

This thread was discussed between 17/02/2013 and 04/03/2013

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG Midget and Sprite Technical BBS is active now.