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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - mg midget 76

hello there got a mark 111 midget 76 1500 sat in the garage all winter started it every other week no problems
but now wont start engines turning over but not firing thought was points changed them moved on to condenser changed plugs and now coil im now stuck checked dizzy cap ok help needed
m barfoot

Hello MB.

Are you getting fuel into the float chambers?

It won't start without fuel.
GN Rowles

Yeah getting fuel
m barfoot

Yeah getting fuel
its not the timing was on tdc when done the points
m barfoot

are you getting a spark at
i coil
ii plugs
Andrew Dunn

swear - bash it with a hammer - or even check the battery, sometimes it works well after a gap, then won't after it's been started! Or even silly things like too much fuel/choke sat out?

checked ht leads across engine getting good spark
m barfoot

Can't believe it wasn't the condenser??

If you are sure the timing is set correctly and you have a spark then it can only be fuel

Remove air filters and drip a bit of neat fuel down the carb throats whilst you turn the engine over. If it fires then you know it is fuel.
Robert (Bob) Midget Turbo

thanks bob will try that tomozz
m barfoot

fuel tank had been empty for a week or so before filled her up but iam getting fuel to the plugs
m barfoot

Sorry for the delay "M" but did not notice your reply

The point I was trying to make (however unsuccesfully) was that if you have a spark at the right time and you have enough fuel and air then the engine WILL RUN.

Now your claim is that all these things are OK so how can it not run? Obviously one of these things is not there correctly.

From you description of events it certainly sounds like you are missing the fuel side of things event though you believe the plugs to be wet it is worth trying a few drips of neat fuel down the carbs to be 100% certain lack of fuel is not the problem.

Secondly is the timing correct? well have you moved the distributor since you last ran the engine? if no then it is a pretty good bet that the timing is right.

Thirdly do you have a regular spark whilst spinning the engine? if yes then it seems the points and everything on the ignition side is OK

Finally there is one other thing you may have wrong and that is the firing order (part of setting up the timing) If you are unsure that you have the correct lead going to the correct plug then read the following on how to set up the firing order. (I pointed another member to this when his engine would not start? not sure he read it however because it was another 3 weeks before he realised that the firing order was incorrect)

You may need to copy and paste the link into your browser to make it work

or try this link and then click on ignition system

Let us know how you get on please
Robert (Bob) Midget Turbo

bob midget turbo
thanks goin to try drop of fuel in carbs whilst turning over on monday sorry i may seem a bit dim this lot is all new to me but had father in law helping me and he always serviced his own cars never know him to use garage in twenty years ive known him
m barfoot

No probs mate plenty of us dim folks about just have to try harder as they told us in school

What is the M for?

And where in the UK are you?
Robert (Bob) Midget Turbo

m for mark bob living in kent first mg
m barfoot

Hi Mark, There was one thing missing from Bob's equation you also need compression for the car to run as a minimum about 100 PSI on at least 3 cylinders. Dont know if you have a compression tester though.

Reason being there is mixed opinion on starting the car every two weeks over winter versus just leaving it be. Certainly starting every two weeks and taking for a run is great but starting on choke and leaving idleing for 15 minutes is not good for the engine. The excess fuel in the combustion chambers thins out the oil and can leed to rapid top end wear.

Not saying this is your problem, certainly hope not.

If you get a can of easy start and take the air filters off, then get an assistant to crank her over whilst you squirt the easy start straight into the carb mouth then it will start up and run straight away and run as long as you keep squirting. This will rule out a fuel supply problem.

Pull the plug out of number 1 put the HT lead on it and rest the metal body on the engine and see when your assitant cranks it over that you have a spark.

You then need to start taking the rocker cover off and checking for TDC on No 1 on the compression stroke watch the inlet and exhaust rockers too find the compression versus exhaust stroke, rig up a bulb or multimeter to your points and check they close (or is it open ?) just before TDC. You will need a socket on the crank to turn it over by hand in neutral, easier with all thr plugs out.

hope this helps.
Ben Brown

robert(bob)midget turbo and ben brown thanks very much for your help took air chambers off squirted easy start down the carbs got her running squirted for about 2min turned off now running by herself 1 more job then ready for mot hopefully this week .horn keeps blowing fuses so thanks again
m barfoot

Is probably worth changing the fuse box for a newer version - the glass ones are always blowing .....

Just keep her moving forward (or back!) and it'll be fine, the major problems are caused by sitting reving on the driveway. Good luck with the MOT!

Rach ... still has a whole box of glass fuses if you persist and need some :)...

Hi, Well done Mark and welcome to the joys of owning a classic. If your horn fuse keeps blowing check the wires (purple I think) were they pass through the panels at the front by the slam panle the insulation sometimes wears through and the wire shorts out on the metal.
Ben Brown

Clearly your capital letter plug has failed, thus allowing your punctuation to drain away and foul all your pronouns.

Chris Edwards

Rach, I've never had a blown glass fuse.... (until now, you'll see)
It's propably a tr...h issue, or too much plastic on the car, causing earth problems...
Alex G Matla

This thread was discussed between 21/03/2010 and 22/03/2010

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