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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - MG Midget Brake Issues?

I have just bought my first restoration project a 1978 MG midget I have completed all of the welding and replaced most of the body panels. However over time in my garage the breaks have locked on both front disks and rear. Any advise on how I can release these? The disks, calipers and drums at the rear are not that old? I have tried bleeding the front brakes but they still are not releasing? ANy ideas would be greatly appreciated?
C Carter


Blimey - been dealing with this issue yesterday. 3/4 weeks ago I had to use the Midge on salty roads. Subsequently gave the underside a good hosing - then the snow set in.

Result was locked front brakes due to a build up of rust on the front discs. My solution was to remove the pads and push the cylinders out slightly to help get the pads back in (after cleaning the discs). I have not reassembled yet so not sure if the drums require attention - I always leave the handbrake off in the garage so hopefully will be OK.

If the rears are a problem I will try releasing with a bit of gentle 65bhp. If this fails it will be drums off and clean these too.

Good luck.
Gavin Rowles

As Gavin rightly states if the brakes are wet when put into the garage the result is always locked brakes and further to that if left for a while the disks will become swollen and useless.

Gavin when I have to hose my car down (generally after New Years Day Run) I do not put it into the garage until I can take it up the road for a short run holding my foot on the brake pedal and warming uop or drying the brakes. Sometimes it stands outside for a week or more waiting for me to dry it out, this year has been particularly bad and I am pleased to say on N.Y.D I chickened out and left the Midget in the garage and took my MGF (as did most people)

CC Either the brakes are rusted on or there could be a problem in the M/C, probably rusted on. Jack up the front wheel and remove the road wheel if it will not turn. Then prise the pads back into the caliper which should release a rusted disk

For the rear there is no better cure than Gavins 65 BHP ie use the engine in gear to release, however if the engine is not running then a stripdown is necessary. Unfortunately removing the drum is difficult when the shoes are rusted on and I am afraid rough tatics need to be employed. Back off the adjuster and tap the drum to hopefully release the shoes. Good Luck
Bob Turbo Midget England

I am pretty sure that the MC is fine so will prise the pads this weekend and hopefully it will be problem solved. Thanks for the ideas.
C Carter

I prized the pads back into the caliper and the piston is now moving smoothley however when pressing the brake the pads hit the disk but once the pedal is released they stay stuck to the disk. Could this be a brake line blockage or MC problem?
C Carter

Could be:

- sticking pstons in the callipers
- flexi brake pipes have gone soft (which is dangerous for other reasons)
- master cyl problem.

A
Anthony Cutler

if a ridge of gunge has built up around the pistons it could take a few "levering them back" sessions to make them ride free in the calipers

so although there may be other issues it would be a good idea to spend some time just freeing off again and again before you attack the really expensive items

especially if you change a "whatever" and find the problem is still there afterwards...

Brake pipe (flexibles) can break up inside and rubber particles hanging around cause blockages when pressure is released, holding the pistons against the discs (rotors guys, in the US)

If this happens a safer alternative is to fit braided brake lines (all the MG, AH, BMC spares dealers have them for sale) which actually reduce pressure loss from sidewall swelling.

master cylinders can fail to release built up pressure if the piston seal does not clear the internal bleed off port. Ensure the pedal has a small amount of free play before the action of the pedal mnoves the cylinder piston.
I cant remember how big the free play is but no doubt somone will dash in to my rescue here

I once had this happen after rebuilding my car & the brake discs were glowing hotter than red :-(

set fire to the track rod end rubber gaiters both sides of the car

(thinks.. must replace them it's only been 9 or 10 years)

HTH
bill sdgpm

Consider stainless steel caliper pistons if you do rebuild your brakes, I fitted some 15 years ago and they haven't been a problem. Although I haven't tried a wet lay up after a salty run.
James Eastwood

This thread was discussed between 18/01/2010 and 12/02/2010

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