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MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG Midget and Sprite Technical - MG Radiator interchange?

I have just purchased a 1973 midget and it has no radiator. I also have access to a couple of older b's and a gt that are in bad shape bodywise and was wondering if the radfrom 1 of them would interchange and if there are many other parts that might also work to make it worth the money to pick them up for parts cars. Also does anyone wanna give me a ball park value of what a rolling frame and compleatly stripped down 'A body might be worth with only surface rust on it. They stripped off all the paint and then left it sitting in a shed I just need a ball park of a high and low price range to see if that would be worth picking up for resale.
P Ruszczyk

value is in the eye of the beholder....these cars dont carry much value as david lieb says...the return on investment is in the driving....id say just a rolling body striped of paint and surfase rust...$200, if it is the RWA...$400...it depends on the condition of the metal..if its in excellent shape just prime and paint...then its a higher dollar, if its alot of cut and weld patching ...MMm not so good.

prop
Prop

sorry as to the rad.

try "british master"---(1-800-333-0461)
"sportscarwarehouse.com"
keep an eye on Ebay

I think a 1500 RAD will fit with out alot of hassle

then there is the salvage yard, for something that can be rigged in with bailing wire and duck tape... escort, chevette, neon, ect. just have to look and measure


prop
Prop

Prop,
The body looks to be very solid with no welds or cut except I think the doors were welded shut possibly for use as a race car. It is really in good shape from what I seen and if I could get a couple of hundred out of it then it would be worth it since I think I can get it for $50 to $100 and I would really hate to see it going to a scrap man.
P Ruszczyk

It's always best to get the proper parts for your car. That way you know they'll fit properly and you won't be wasting your time and perhaps money. No point springing say $50.00 for a used rad from a wrecking yard and finding out it doesn't fit at all or very poorly or it comes loose and the fan tears it up. There is also replacing the coolant hoses. You might find one locally but what if it lets go someplace else? If you have a factory part, finding a replacement hose is so much easier.

I don't think there is a lot of interchangability on MGB to Midgets in the parts department. I can think of marker lights, tail lights and alternators but not a lot more. I'm sure others will have more to add on that end.
Clive Reddin

1500 rad is completely different ( don't ask me how I know)
d brenchley

P,
I have a rebuildable spare here if you want it. I recommend having it re-cored with a modern high-efficiency matrix so you never have to worry about it again.
David "keeping my cool" Lieb
David Lieb

Clive,
I would rather use original parts as long as I can find them but will use whatever I have at hand if it will let me get this thing started. I just figured if I could use parts off the b or the gt it would be worth buying them otherwise I'll have to pass on them since I neither have the room or money for them.

D, Thanks for the info saves me time trying it out

David,
Thanks I have the guy I bought the car from checking his sheds to see if he has one laying around if not I will be very interested in buying yours. I also noticed I am going to have to find a water pump pulley also since its not in the parts box with the water pump and other stuff I got with the car
P Ruszczyk

P, don't rush things. Often you'll find yourself doing the job over again. Trust me, I've been down that road in the past.

Do you have any of the parts catalogues from Victoria British or Moss Motors? Both are free and really useful when you are working on your car as they show exploded diagrams etc.

These are not the only 2 suppliers and many of us have our favourites but the books will help you out for sure.

If you can get an original from David, then I'd go with that as opposed to one from the suppliers. Even if it needs a recore it might be cheaper when you add on shipping fees and the fit of the new replacement radiators I hear is good but not as good as the factory stuff.

If you don't have the room/cash for the B and GT, perhaps it might be best to let them go. You can mention them on the B and GT section of this site and someone else can always use them. Beats them going for scrap before their usefulness is gone.

Clive Reddin

P,
Re-read my message please. I said nothing whatsoever about selling you a radiator. My prices are much steeper than that. If I have a spare part that you need, it is yours. However, the next time someone else needs a spare part that you have, you need to send it to him on the same terms ;-)
David "free radical" Lieb
David Lieb

I need a 2nd datsun 210 tranny...does that count for the freebie pass it along program, and I did give away some valve rockers, to someone on this site when I get them in a mix of other parts, So I should be qualified...LOL

If the doors are welded shut, because it used to be a race car...it begs the question...is this really a project worth doing?. I seriously doublt it...(after all Im to old to be playing dukes of hazard climbing over the windows...lol

If your wanting to make a few bucks with little or no money involved....there is an easier way...

BREAK IT AND EBAY it Baby!!!!, seriously you would easily triple or even 5 banger your investment, and provide much needed parts to the rest on the midget/healy family....Id strip off the part, clean it and paint it, that way it will draw a better price and easier to sell


You say its a 73...does it have the round rear wheel arches...are they in good shape...there you go, $75 per side...that $150 and havent even touched anything else....Does the master brake cly. work really well...no leaking...if so theres $100 for a good working MC you wont have to rebuild...how about that windshild in the frame... is it in good shape, wont need rebuilding...theres $200, is the wiring harness in excellent shape not been hacked into....theres a $100....do you see where Im going.

Id highly consider breaking it for parts and cash...it just sounds like this car is going to get expensive fast, and you wont even come close to breaking even.

prop "to old to jump over welded doors" Prop
Prop

Prop,
You are confusing two different cars. The car with the welded doors is an MGA that he MIGHT buy.
David "Life P.O.E.M. Member" Lieb
David Lieb

Prop,
This is my midget. Its needs lots of work but in no way am I going to just cut it up (well not yet that is). While it needs a lot of little things ie: windshield, head rest restitched, dashboard replaced, carpet, and some paint it is the radiator and water pump pulley that I'm worried about most since I really dont want to try starting the engine without some water in it. It is a MGA that I have the chance to buy that is just a bare metal body shell on a rolling frame with welded doors and at 54 yrs of age I too am a bit too long in the tooth to be playing D of H . I will post a pic of it as soon as I can get over to the guys house that has it and get some pics taken. He also has a couple of morris minors I am trying to talk him into selling me.


P Ruszczyk

Dave,
That is really a good "price" but I'm afraid at this stage it may be a while till I can make the payment. I would be happy to be indebted that way and hope I will be able to repay it with interest. Any time you can get down to the Bourbonnais/Kankakee area let me know and I will be happy to meet up with you to get it or depending on the weather I might even make it all the way up by you to get it if your not heading out this way anytime soon. I will send you an email with my number so we can figure out the best way to get together on this
P Ruszczyk

P, your car doesn't look that bad, hopefully Prop was referring to the other cars available.

My advice is to fix it up as you go along and enjoy the car for fun purposes. Dashes come up on Ebay quite frequently and while it looks hard to remove it is more of a PITA than difficult to do so.

As for the head rests, some fellows do away with them completely but V-B/Moss have repro ones and last I looked they were about $60.00 each. You might do better keeping an eye out on Ebay for them. Might be cheaper than having them restitched although you could probably do a passable job with some black fishing line for strength and a sailmaker's needle

Used brake parts like master cylinders etc don't realize much at auction. Not a lot of people willing to risk their cars and skin on used parts like that. I certainly am not prepared to do so! As for wiring harness values, I just picked up a complete one front to back, less dash harness, for my '76 for a mere $25.00.

Is the glass broken in your frame? I have a piece that I took out of my frame when I put new glass in. If it fits it's yours for the shipping fee. I'm in Toronto so I have no way of knowing what that would be or if it would even arrive in 1 piece though. I would suggest replacing all the rubber windshield parts and keep track of the shims and make sure the same ones go back on each side otherwise your windshield could crack when being installed.

Feel free to ask all the questions you like on here. There's lots of good advice and tips to be had on here from a good number of folks who know their stuff!

Clive Reddin

I guess I was really confused....

So you own a midget, and you want to but a MGA, MGB, And a GT to use as parts on the midget, is that correct


So the 73 midget does not have the doors welded shut...how good a shape is the 73 midget...does it just need a new rad. If your planning on flipping this car for fast cash....Id use the original rad, rather then trying to rig one in...then use the money you would have spent on the other 3 cars, to fix this one up for a fast sale...I certianly wouldnt try selling it now...you need to wait till spring (april- may) when people are more intune to drive a convertable...right now people are thinking 4x4 small pick-up


prop
Prop

Ok Prop from the top,
1. I just bought a 1973 midget in fair condition. This is for me to keep and use as a sunday driver for the wife and myself so I want to fix it up. The picture in my other post shows it

2. I could buy a couple of MGBs and a MGB GT that are in sad shape and I was asking if they might have parts I could use for the midget that would make my midget rebuilding cheaper.

3. And last on the list is a totally stripped down MGA shell and frame (the doors are welded on it) that I was thinking of buying and then flipping just to save it from the scrap man since it really is in great shape with no known welds or cuts on the body nor anything more than surface rust as far as I could see from a fairly quick once over. I was more interested in the 2 minors that he had buried on the side of the shed 1 of which is a woody and the other a convertable.
Ok does it all make a little more sense or are you totally confused now?
P Ruszczyk

I got it now, thank you....well,

Id buy the 3 MGB>'s strip them down, clean and paint the parts then sell the parts ebay, that would easily give you 3 To 7 thousand dollars, take the cash and re-invest in the midget...BUY the MGA and stick it in a shed, till you have time to build it, or sell it on ebay to someone that has the time, money and energy to rebuild the MGA

prop..Im blond and my favorite flavor is water, my favorite color is clear...Prop
Prop

P, I suggest that you forget the B and the GT. Even stripped down you'll probably not realize anywhere near $3-7000 if you sold every part. Don't forget, you'll be spending money on parts cleaner and paint for the part and your time has to be worth something.

I think you'll make a few bucks, sure, but not near Prop's estimation. Used parts generally go for a fraction of new ones and people will take shipping costs into the equation. You might make a few bucks if the B and GT have a good working overdrive transmission but if you can't test the car, how do you know it works properly? The buyer isn't going to spring good hard cash on a pig in a poke which is what used parts are.

How long has the car been sitting? You might like to take that into consideration before even trying to start the engine. It might take some initial prep work to ensure it's up to being cranked over. You could do further damage if you just jump in and crank it over without making sure everything is in good order with no sticking valves, not seized etc.
Clive Reddin

P. Agree with Clive about skipping the Bs. Unless there is an overdrive transmission available, it is not really worth the time involved in stripping the parts out, cleaning them, repainting them, and trying to sell them. Typically, the engines (complete and running) go for about $350 here. Too expensive to ship. Used four speed trannies go for less than $100 because everyone wants to get rid of their straight four speeds and install an overdrive box. Scrap metal (steel) is selling at $25 per ton in my area. Thus, you would have to invest your money, do a lot of work, and have someplace to store the parts until they sell. Could be a quite long time with very little return on your investment.

The MGA shell, however, is another matter. Much will depend on how complete the shell is as MGA parts are much harder to find and are more expensive. Some MGB parts, including the engines, can be used in the MGA. The value of an A is also much higher than a Midget or a B. So, if you can get into the shell for a decent price (about $500 to $800 depending on how complete the system is) you might be able to turn a profit--in the long run.

With a world wide downturn in the economy, now is a good time to buy things that you want and can afford. Not a good time to sell things, especially those which most people consider luxury items. There are a lot of luxury items being sold off to pay the house payments in my area. And, I suspect things will be getting worse. If one has cash in hand, some good deals will be available over the next few years.

Les
Les Bengtson

Thanks for all the advice on the cars. I do think the MGA shell is too good to pass up and will soon have pics posted on the MGA board if I am able to buy it. I have not heard back from the guy with the cars yet as to what all he has but I will probably pick up whatever parts that might be useable and put up post offering whatever I dont need for my midget. I was able to get the starter out and cleaned up over the weekend and now I am looking to get the oil changed in the next week along with going over the engine checking the basics prior to trying to start it. Not sure how long the car has set but from the looks of things it is in great shape engine and electrical wise. While the tires are a bit weather checked they do hold air and spin free with no worrisome noises si I think just a complete fluid flush and change on all the oil and lubes, tune up kit for the distributor, and a peek under the valve cover to make sure nothing is broke or stuck will just about do it on the starting side. When I bought the car I was thinking an engine rebuild might be needed because the motor was stuck but it became free with just a little wd40 down the cyliders and some mild rocking in gear so I think it is going to be a lot less work than I thought engine wise but maybe a bit more body and under the car work. Need to stop the rust before it starts to be a problem. Once again thank you to all who responded. I really appriciate all the input.
P Ruszczyk

P R,
The pic of the red Midget you posted is a 73? The pic makes it look as though the rear wheel arches are square rather than round. I thought all 73's were round.
Rik
Rik Hogan

Rik,
To tell the truth I have no title on the car yet and was just told its a 73 I haven't even checked to see if it really was. Thanks for noticing that. I really need to check.
P Ruszczyk

I *think* square rear arches, split rear bumpers, D-shape headrests point to it being around 1970 or first half of 71.
David Smith

Paul,
On the door jamb of the drivers side, near the latch, there should be a plate with MFG date. What do that and the VIN say? The VIN should start with GAN5U and the next letter will indicate approximate year with C being 72, D being 73 and E being 74 IIRC.
David "there should be a C, a D , and an E outthere right now..." Lieb
David Lieb

I will have to check on saterday since the car is still in a buddys shed thats 50 miles away but thanks for the info. Never thought to check.
P Ruszczyk

I feel for you. I have a "1974" (11/73 mfg date, so never had the sabrinas) in my driveway patiently awaiting a title. Previous owner keeps promising...
David "mr patience" Lieb
David Lieb

The door plates and the dash VIN plates are easily switchable. This car could be a 71 with switched 73 plates.
Rik
Rik Hogan

P, a word of advice. Don't stick your fingers in the holes on the steering wheel's spokes. It's not called a "finger trap wheel" for nothing! (LOL):-)
Clive Reddin

Well it turns out my 1973 midget is a true female and she lied about her age. She is actually an early '70 model. Hey its all good I am not one to quibble about a few years between friends. Here is an image of the plate on the door.
As for the MGA I was told today the guy bought it with most of the parts except the engine and if I am not mistaken he has a motor for it also in his shed. I'll post some of the pics of the shell and the parts that I took today


P Ruszczyk

This is the shell of course. The patches are just paint. There is no putty or welds on it anywhere i could see


P Ruszczyk

Some of the parts for the MGA


P Ruszczyk

And what appears to be a 1600 motor


P Ruszczyk

My problem now is do I buy the MGA and turn it over for a fast buck or sell the midget as is and build the A or strip the midget for any useable parts for the A and sell the rest off or keep the midget and hide the A and build it in secret so my loving wife doesnt have to comtemplate jail time for spouse abuse. In the words of an old sweat hog "I am soooooooo confused"
P Ruszczyk

P, the first thing if you are contemplating the MGA as well, is to make sure you have all the parts and what shape are they in? To build up a basket case car and that's what this is, can easily end up costing you more in the long run than if you bought a nicely restored car. You'll probably not get back what you will have put into it and that's a just a fact of many British cars like ours. I feel they are on the low end of the value scale compared to North American cars etc. Guess that's why we have such fun with them!

Regarding the age of your Midget, in some states, the year of the car on the registration is the year it was first registered for the road. Conceivably, your car could have sat for quite some time on a dealer's car lot! Mine sat for a year on the dealer's lot before it was first sold and registered.

I don't think there is a lot of parts on the Midget that will swap over to an MGA and vice versa but then again, I'm not an MGA expert. I just base that on the cars I have seen.

I think given the shape of the MGA, in the long run it could be a good project for someone with a lot of time on their hands and patience but a basket case car is harder to sell. Maybe it might be best if you hang onto the Midget and get her back on the road. You'll have a lot fo fun doing it and believe me, if you haven't driven a Midget, it's worth the wait as they are a heap of fun to drive!

Good luck!

Clive Reddin

Clive,
I did own a midget back in the mid '70s and thanks to old age and a bad memory remember it as some of the best times I ever had behind the wheel of a car but I have never done a complete body off restoration before and the prospect of doing one on a MGA is very tempting. Time is not an issue with me since I have been retired for the last couple of years. I guess it will depend more on what the MGA is worth right now. Well I will have to wait until I have time to inventory the parts I receive with the MGA to finally decide which way I go. In the end its the value of the pleasure received that is worth more than the value of the dollars spent that matters to me. I never bought my midget for profit and as for the MGA if I sold it the money would be put more into the midget than my pocket.
P Ruszczyk

OK I have found a radiator that may or may not be the one I need. I could really use some measurements and a pic or 2 of what a '70 1275 radiator should look like. The one I am looking at measures 14" tall by 27.5" wide and has 1 outlet on the bottom right side and inlets on both the top corners with the drain petcock on the bottom leftside
P Ruszczyk

Its actually 23.5 x 14 not 27.5 . Typo on my part
P Ruszczyk

There are many parts on MGA's that are common to early Midgets. 1961 to 1963. Your '70 Midget has almost nothing in common save some clips and fasteners. The Midget radiator is much smaller than the measurements you posted. 1500 radiators have different in and out locations. Forget other radiators from different makes. They will all be too big and have hose fittings that are too big in diameter. If the radiator you use is questionable, have it recored. My shop did it with a high flow core, dropped my temps from 210 to 170 for $250. Best money I spent. Forget the B's, go for the A. Not enough parts on the B to make it worth while. Lights and switches.
J Bubela

Purchasing one with a shroud off of ebay for $9.99 plus shipping. Should total less than $50. Still need to find a useable water pump pulley and now I need to drill and remove a broken screw on the back of the starter.


P Ruszczyk

This thread was discussed between 07/11/2008 and 18/11/2008

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

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