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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Midget 1500 rear crank seal??

Hi all..

Ive just popped in from the T type forum to ask a Q.

Is the rear crankshaft housing main oil seal replaced by removing the box,clutch and flywheel,,,and maybe back plate and oil seal housing?
Or is it one of those where you have to loosen off the main bearings to do it,ie sump off etc!!

Doing the job is no problem,strip and re-assemble,but as I dont have a manual to hand,dont know how far I need to go therefore what parts to get in.

Cheers all.

MM?? I wonder if ive still got that old haynes spitfire manual???
Pilkie

Its been a year since I rebuilt my engine, but if I remember rightly you have to dismantle things from the back. Gearbox, clutch, flywheel etc. off.

Maybe this helps clarify...

http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID005533

Malcolm
Malcolm Le Chevalier

Thats as I would of thought!
Ive looked at the rimmers and other blow up parts diagram,but that doesnt explain if its poss.
I know I need a seal,but will I need the U shaped housing gasket and a sump gasket,if it also has to come off!
Pilkie

just sorting some pics out from my rebuild if you hang on 5 mins....
Malcolm Le Chevalier

block with view of where rear oil seal housing attaches, can still see gasket, oil see attaches via the 7 bolts on the inner face...


Malcolm Le Chevalier

crank. rear to the right of pic. You can see shiny section where oil seal "sat"...

flywheel bolts to far right face, clearer in later pic...


Malcolm Le Chevalier

crank in, main bearings on and seal back on, shot from bottom without sump. You can just see oil seal on right hand side. its the orange bit...

housing is the aluminium bit...


Malcolm Le Chevalier

and shot from the outside... seal is orange bit as said, flywheel obviously bolts to end of crank via the four bolt holes you can see.

Hope this helps. You sound mechanically minded enough to be able to figure the rest out ;-)

and to answer other question now, yes you will need sump gasket and rear seal gasket.

Another thought (maybe rubbish as I have had a few beers...) are you sure it is rear crank seal leaking and not front gearbox seal leaking out the front of the bell housing? Just a thought!

Cheers,
Malcolm


Malcolm Le Chevalier

Thanks Malcolm.
The pics make it clear.
I did nip up the rear sump bolts,and that seems to have stopped it!
Will run it up again tomorrow,and if it leaks check the oil smell for g/box.
The engine and box havent been run for nearly a year,so it may have just needed to warm up and reseal itself.
Been doing a nut and bolt resto on a 1954 TF1500.
The engine was missing so have fitted the later midget 1500,converted from TF rod to hydraulic clutch using a dual master from a MGA,designed and built an engine mount bracket.
Been into classics for 35yrs,so know what I am doing,just like to know what to expect before I go in if poss.



Pilkie

The others.


Pilkie

looks like a well equipped workshop you have there! ;-)
Guy W

Still not big enough though!!
But I do have a handy undercover extension!!
MG on ramp,TR6 underneath and rover under the carport.
Dont own a modern,the P6V8 has been my daily for the last 13yrs!


Pilkie

I so wish I had a blasting cabinet!

As well as two grinders, eh Guy! ;-)

Ho hum... I suppose actually owning, not renting, my garage would actually be a good start!

Mal.
Malcolm Le Chevalier

It was the 4 post that I liked the look of! And I assume you have a decent sized compressor hidden away in there too!
Nice P6 ! (and a good Reg no!)
Guy W

3hp,belt drive,twin cyl with 200L tank!.
Does fine with the airtools and only just keeps up with the blast cabinet!
Am looking for a BIGGER one to put in the shed!
Pilkie

Took it apart this weekend,as the drip was almost a flow,and I found the outer edge of the seal was split!
Ive just got the bits from Moss so will get it fixed this afternoon!
I am also fitting an oil pressure pipe take off Y piece as well as the std sender as the 3 in 1 gauge on the dash is oil,amps water.


Pilkie

Well thats fixed that!
thanks for your help and the pics,makes life easier when you go in knowing what to expect.
Fitted the oil pressure pipe via the Y piece to the guage and its all working.

I would like to know what the oil pressure "psi" readings should be though?

Currently goes up to around 90 at 1st start up,settling to 50 when warm on tickover, rising to 90 when you increase revs.
Not able to road test and put under load at the moment.
Pilkie

This thread was discussed between 01/02/2013 and 20/02/2013

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

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