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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - MIdget brakes

I'm on role so another question.

What kind of brake pedal travel should the midget have?

Thanks
W Headon

Short and firm....!

Mark.
M T Boldry

if your pedal is firm, but the stroke gets shorter on the second time you press down, that is a sign that your rear brakes need an adjustment.

But take care not to adjust the rears too tight that they drag (an easy way to check this is to go for a short run afterwards and then touch both drums to make sure neither is real hot / both are similarly warmish only.

On some Midgets, it seems you can never get it adjusted perfectly and the "two push" brake pedal is the way to get the shortest travel (plus, if you get into the habit, flashes your brake lights for folks behind).


If, on the other hand, your pedal is squishy, or sinks a bit when you hold it down hard, then you've got air in the lines. An EZ Bleed is a great way around this (and flush generously, if you've got a troublesome air pocket, don't be afraid to use a whole can of fluid to get rid of it).

If your pedal sinks all of the way down, slowly, when you hold it down hard, then you've got a leaking seal (internal), or a fluid leak in one of the joints (visible "wetness" on an outside surface).


Norm
Norm Kerr

Well I found it! Brake fluid all over the drum! I need to replace the seal.
Is this difficult and is there a tutorial resource online for this?

Thanks for the help!
W Headon

Don't bother with trying to replace the seals - just replace the complete rear wheel cylinder, they are cheap enough. Replacement seals are prone to leaking if there is any damage or surface rusting on the cylinder bore.

Guy Weller

Hi
if your mot is anything like in the north you'l need to replace both.To avoid imbalance.
gary
gary knowles

.....and there you teeter at the start of a slippery slope.....I should know having, I hope, just reached the bottom two new rear wheel cylinders, two new half shaft o-rings, a pair of rear brake shoes, two new front calipers, set of new brake pads and loads of bleeding (both knuckles and brakes)later. Still didn't have a firm pedal and after nearly giving up in frustration I consulted the oracle archives and tried jamming the pedal down overnight with a length of timber against the seat. By some miracle on Sunday morning I had a lovely firm pedal once again and for the first time really positive brakes. Whether its the new Mintex pads, the fact that one of the drums isn't coated in axle oil and hydraulic fluid or the fact that one of my front pistons is no longer seized I don't know.
Everyone says the rear wheel cylinders are a horror but follow the archives and they're not half as bad as you may think!
Matt1275 Bucks

The archives are great...but there needs to be a map of some kind to find your way around, its a dark scary place in there...Ive heard people have gone in and turned into an arcive themselfs trying to find there way back out

the search for the holy grail is the arcives itsself.


Prop...You didnt happen to find my screw driver while in there did you

Prop

>>> Well I found it! Brake fluid all over the drum! <<<

Make sure it's not axle oil! But I agree, it's probably brake fluid. I've been there at least three times.

As suggested above, new cylinders and linings for BOTH sides are the way to go here. If one side's on its way out, don't assume the other one's perfect.

Once you have everything replaced and bled, proper adjustment is key, as mentioned above. Set each adjuster so that the brakes JUST drag, and then back it off a flat. This will ensure a nice low, firm pedal. Maybe.

Next you'll be asking us about those demon E-clips...

;-)

-:G:-
Gryf Ketcherside

This thread was discussed between 18/04/2010 and 19/04/2010

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG Midget and Sprite Technical BBS is active now.