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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Midget classic rallying Help!

Recently purchased a 1966 midget to which i am looking to prepare for classic rallying. Nothing to serious i might add... but some of the more tame HERO events and local rallies.

The car has had the once over and I have been assured its a good shell to begin with. I am looking for any advice on components/ modifications to make to the car.

initial ideas:
Hard top (I cannot find one anywhere to fit a mk2)
Roll cage (thinking frontline developments)
Sump Guard (similar problem to the hard top, finding it difficult to locate)
4 point harnesses and Seats purchased :)

I have a 1275 engine and box which may eventually go in...maybe with straight cut gears :)

Any help/ advice would be appreciated as very new to this

Thanks
JBA Austin

If any of the events you will do require you to have a competition licence then you will also get a copy of the MSA Blue Book with all the rules and regs in. That will help you ensure that any roll bar you buy will be legal and fit for purpose. Something like this might be preferable:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MG-MIDGET-SPRITE-AUSTIN-HEALEY-SPRITE-SAFETY-DEVICES-FIA-REAR-ROLL-CAGE-/381483443781
David Smith

Also meant to say - buy the hardtop first, then buy the cage after ensuring it fits under the hardtop - some don't, especially if the supplier is selling one designed for the Mk4 Sprite / Mk3 Midget as suitable for the earlier models as well.
David Smith

Thanks David

Are you aware of any mk2 hardtops for sale or which type i am looking for. All seem to be later midgets that are modified and mk1 hardtops fit the side screen cars not wind up cars.

I think an FIA spec cage my be preferable and should future proof the car for events.

Thanks again
JBA Austin

JBA
If you contact me via www.masckent.org I can give you details of three hardtops for sale that should fit your car.
Alan
Alan Anstead

Hi Alan,

I have sent a message to your email address from the link. If you have not received it please let me know.
JBA Austin

Received and responded.
Alan
Alan Anstead

Good morning JBA,

Glad to hear a Midget is being readied for a bit of classic rallying.

The advice about the hardtop/roll bar interference is spot on as I found out when trying to fit a hardtop to a MK1 Midget. I had to get the roll bar shortened and for convenience had a seat belt bar welded to it as well. Likewise the MSA Blue Book should be studied for other safety requirements regarding firewalls etc.

Performancespridget will be able to help with a sumpguard as he makes them in either alloy or steel with a little extension to protect the lcb/exhaust where it turns under the floor.

I would double check the shell at all critical points (front suspension mountings & rear bulkhead ) and ensure that any repairs/restoration are strong enough to take a battering - it doesn't have to be pretty - just strong. A lot of special test surfaces can be rough (farm lanes, abandoned airfields etc ).

Next I would ensure that the suspension, brakes & steering are all ok and all bolts etc are tight. Midget halfshafts can break & while there are numerous upgrade options available I would at least check yours and replace if the inner splines show any signs of twisting. Most standard halfshafts will have EN17Y or EN25Y on the hub flange - EN25 are reputedly slightly stronger. Also I would consider fitting anti-tramp bars to prevent axle tramp when powering around cones etc. I would choose ones that mount above the rear spring, if they are still available.

A good handbrake is a useful tool to have. Again there are options available (hydraulic, Riley 1.5 rear drums etc). I would check to see if your handbrake is efficient enough to lock the rear wheels and take it from there. There used to be a pawl available to convert the Midget handbrake to flyoff ( you could try Martin Ingall who had some remanufactured a few years ago , if not drill a little hole in the handbrake lever when someone is holding in the button. You can then put in a little pin in which will stop the handbrake locking on & is easily removed for MOT's.

I would also check out class structures for the events you are going to enter. Over here in Ireland there was a class for more standard sports cars which a virtually standard 1098 Midget would fit in to. You need to be careful that fitting something like a larger bore engine or a limited slip diff will automatically place you in the modified class.

Finally I would talk to experienced rally competitors - I am sure Will Corry or Pete Moreland-Moore would give a bit of advice. They are a formidable team and have developed Will's Midget into a rally winning weapon. If you google "will corry mgcc dwt 2013 quarry test" on youtube you will see what I mean.

Hope the above helps.

Kind Regards

Robert
w r holmes

Can I ask the need for a hardtop?

I contacted performancespridget last week and he has no intentions of making any more sump guards at the present due to demand being so low.

Also, has anyone got any pics of anti tramps mounted above the axle? Never seen that before.
C Mason

I added a Watt's linkage to a mates Austin Sprite and added radius arms at the same time, see image


David Billington

and the other side. The radius arm pick-up points are welded to the axle.


David Billington

I can't help but think that going rallying is a good way to get your fabrication, body repair as well as mechanicing skills honed, including under pressure in events.

Make sure the shell is completely solid. No structural rust or iffy repairs. You need an experienced Midget competitor in your series to advise on what if any strengthening is allowed once you have welded in the plates to mount the rollcage. Similarly what lighter panels can you have, and any implications e.g. Grp doors will probably require a front roll cage and a door bar.

Fireproof front and rear bulkheads. On a Midget you will need to fabricate a rear bulkhead from aluminium to replace the carboard/hardboard and cover over some hidden holes behind the side interior trim panels in the rear of the cockpit. Remove the steering lock and fit an FIA ignition kill switch.

Make sure all the electrical connections are clean, secure and working. Solder if necessary and even put in a new loom.

Make sure you have a suitable engine catch tank for the breather system.

Find a suitable eligible seat that fits and mount it securely. Tricky for a Midget. Watch out for head clearance on the cage - a blue book requirement. Harness - check the blue book and your series regulations. You may want a 6 point to stop you submarining under the harness.

Fabricating a sump guard would be a good project. May be scope to use plywood stuck to aluminium with some steel mounting brackets made up.

You might want to enter a few hillclimbs or sprints first to get the car and you going in fairly standard road-going trim, and scrutineered for the obvious stuff before going into the rough of rallies. Others will be able to advising on the MSA logbook registration. process for rally cars.

Got a tow car, trailer and experienced navigator sorted? Road insurance for the rally car?

Magic midget, Merlin Motrosport. peter May engineering and Minispares useful for bits. And other places too

Cheers
Mike
M Wood

Hi,

I have spoken to performance midget and as previously mentioned unfortunately doesn't produce sump guards anymore.

Shell has been checked and has been given the green light :)

Brakes - thinking of changing the pipes, and pads. Discs look ok. read that chaining to braided pipes has a big influence.

Suspension - replacing king pins and adding anti roll bar.

No plan off adding anything slip diff wise or anything to modified. Looking to keep all mods within classic period as able really for regs.

The link on you tube looked unbelievable and probably a little too hardcore on the jumps for me ha.

Thinking of routing the brake lines through the car... anyone any experience of this. Big job?

Currently using 4 point FIA harness driver and passenger.

Jake
JBA Austin

Speak to Will Corry of Corry Motorsports. Builds unkillable autotest midgets. Top bloke.

http://corrymotorsport.com/

He'll probably be able to make you a sump guard too.
Rob Armstrong

Thanks Rob

I will drop him an email

Jake
JBA Austin

This thread was discussed between 17/01/2016 and 20/01/2016

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