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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Mk III dies when main beams cut on
The 1973 Mk III that I've owned for 20 years had been sitting unloved for about four years in my garage for a variety of reasons, none of which are particularly reasonable but I digress. We're moving from that house and needed to move the car - a new battery, brake system bleed and jumper cables and the old girl fired right up. I reregistered the car (and a 36 year old car needs no inspection/MOT in this state!) and I've now been driving her around for a week and was testing the lights here in the driveway of our new home. Indicators - check. Brake lights - check. Low beams - check. Main beams - engine dies. No ignition light on dash. Car was stone cold dead. I worked the turn signal/beam dip and got the ignition light back and the car fired immediately. Tap the brakes - dies. For a while it seems that anything related to lighting or the horn killed the car. I wasn't able to tear into the car and troubleshoot that day; tried it the next day and the car fired, lights worked for a while then the symptoms returned, invariably when I used the main beams. But it also seemed to be heat related - I suspect something's heating up and grounding out. I'm going to go into it this weekend but I was hoping somebody here has seen similar issues and could offer a bit of guidance. Many thanks and best, Craig Zeni Cary NC USA |
C L Zeni |
I got a brother in Angier NC just outside of raleigh...No he is not mechanically gifted, My inital guess is your about to have a large car fire, most likely a short somewhere in the wiring loom. So make sure you get a quick battry disconnect and keep the battry disconnected when your not working on it Look for sharp metal edgs and bad burn spots, broken or cut insulation, and a big thing...Screws in the wiring loom. namly self tapers....it seems this is a somewhat common occurance...think back...did you put any screws anywhere in the car? Prop |
Props Black Hole |
No sheet metal screws...the car is remarkably unmodified from that perspective which is one of the reasons I bought it. I've done the Nissan 5 speed and the tube shock conversions but nothing else. It doesn't even have a radio and hasn't for years... Good idea on the battery disconnect - I'll pull the positive cable off until I get a disconnect. |
C L Zeni |
when the car dies...how dead does it go...LOL (Sorry), I mean does nothing work, like there was no battry is installed...or does somethings/anything work Prop |
Props Black Hole |
It's 100% stone dead. Nothing works. No starter, no electrical of any sort...as if there's no battery in the car. |
C L Zeni |
Check the connections on the battery and solenoid first: - battery +ve and connection to solenoid - battery -ve connection to earth - solenoid battery post nut reasonably tight; this also has fat brown to loom - check fat brown on solenoid makes good contact and hasn't deteriorated. BTW - if you can relaibly get the car into this state, you should be able to trace the +ve volts from the batter, through the solenoid to the fuse-box where the fat-brown joins. Tell us what you see. A |
Anthony Cutler |
Don't understand where Prop is coming from but I have to agree with Ant, sounds like a bad earth on the battery/ engine / body or a poor battery connections. It sounds like when the failing connection is "loaded up" then the connection goes open circuit, classic symptoms |
Robert (Bob) Midget Turbo |
SORTED! I took the wires/cables off of the starter relay earlier today, gave them all a good cleaning as well as the battery connection. I turned on every electrical item in the car after it was good and hot under the hood - no issues. Drove the car around for half an hour - no issues when previously it would have died in about 5 minutes. Thanks to Anthony and Robert for your insights. And came back from the test drive giggling like an eight year old - there is nothing as entertaining as a midget! |
C L Zeni |
This thread was discussed between 04/09/2009 and 07/09/2009
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