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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Mobil 1 in a well run-in rebuilt engine

I use to use Mobil 1 (15w/50 motorsport) in previous classics and then got put off using it hearing about "not suitable for the seals"

When I started using it I think it was £24 for a 4l bottle but you got an Agro card with £4 on it (so £20) - I think now it's £43 for the correct grade

What are the thoughts on using it?

I'd be particularly interested in views on this from the engine rebuilders
Nigel Atkins

I'm not an engine builder but it was recommend to me by reputable performance engine builders. My engines don't have the original seals and were built with modern seals so I've never 'bought' the 'not suitable for the seal's' stuff.

It drains down very well (apparently) so not ideal for cars that sit in a garage all winter and then burst into life in Spring - or so I'm told.

You'll still supposed to change it after 12 months so it can work out expensive on a low mileage car.

It's best suited to any engine that's going to see more than standard rpm or standard peak rpm for a long time.

Probably any other synthetic would give similar performance.
Daniel Thirteen-Twelve

15w/50 used to be available in Al Fords at the same price as 0w/40 but is no longer there

Mobil 1 website shows New Life 0W-40 for longer intervals between oil changes
http://www.mobil-1.co.uk/cms/Mobil_1_New_Life_0W-40.aspx

and (15w/50 replacement) Extended Life 10W-60 for high mileage older engines probably more suited to classics(?)
http://www.mobil-1.co.uk/cms/Mobil_1_Extended_Life_10W-60.aspx
Nigel Atkins

Call me a Luddite I'll stick with Duckhams 20-50 rather than that new thin stuff..
K Harris

You've got to laugh, just found this -
http://www.mobiloil.com/usa-english/motoroil/car_care/askmobil/lacking_10w60.aspx

The Al Fords stuff must be made by someone

ETA: Luddite! :)
Nigel Atkins

I've used Mobil1 fully synth in my MED race engines for over 5 years, and used to swear by it. However the latest one has fading oil pressure (40 hot running flat out, 15 fast tickover) after only a couple of short seasons. I'm told this may well be due to the removal of ZDDP (zinc-based) additives from almost all oils including Mobil1, as their presence via burnt oil in the eshaust gases was cauing failure of ever more stringent emissions test. The only oil that still has good levels of ZDDP in it is Joe Gibbs but I don't know of a UK supplier. I'm still using Mobil1 in the ZS180; no idea what I'll use in the midget next season.
Some useful info here:
http://tinyurl.com/35aoqc2
Mobil 15/50 Motorsport has been discontinued and a new 10/60 replaces it, 33 quid for 5litres looks cheap to me.
David Smith

If you want an oil with high ZDDP try Redline which is also an ester based oil. The majority of race oils Motul Silkolene use esters and higher amounts of ZDDP.
P WILEY

I am using Valviline VR1 Racing Oil (VR1)here's what they say about it...

The #1 selling racing motor oil. High zinc provides race-level protection for any vehicle.

* High zinc/phosphorus provides extreme wear protection, including flat tappet applications
* Additional friction modfiers to help deliver maximum horsepower
* Enhanced anti-foam system protects engine during extreme stress
* Compatible with gasoline or alcohol fuels
* Available through leading auto parts retailers

i get it from euro car parts - about £40 for 5 litres

http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/Accessories/Lubricants-and-Fluids/Engine-Oils/Oil-Offers/?521770490&0&cc5_284VP
d cusworth

Danny, that's one of the oils that has considerably less zinc than it used to. One of the guys in CSCC - well-respected experienced front-runnner - reckons he lost an engine due to this and is now using Joe Gibbs instead....
David Smith

David.

gosh! now you are worrying me!

What has always confused me (I know, it doesn't take much!) is in any engine either pushrod or ohc there is a cam sliding on a follower - I understand it is this 'shear' that zddp is designed to protect against?
d cusworth

being a bit selfish now

- I'm more concerned about using Mobil 1 in a everyday Midget that (at the moment) only does 8-9,000 miles a year

I want to best protect the engine and and drop to only needing to do one oil and filter change a year (and to offset the higher oil cost)
Nigel Atkins

A lot of people use Valvoline VR-1 because they think it has extra ZDDP in it. However, it is my understanding, that if it is designed to be used in cars with catalytic converters, it does not have much ZDDP in it. The ZDDP was taken out because it kills the converters. Valvoline does have a racing oil with more ZDDP that is not street legal and can be ordered from places like NAPA, and some other auto parts suppliers. The most effective, and maybe cost effective, thing may be to just use whatever oil you prefer and add a small bottle of the ZDDP additive.
Jack
Jack Orkin

Jack, I believe you are correct about VR-1. It was discussed on another forum.
http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/ubbthreads.php/topics/693086/I_know_I_know_But_Valvolines_o#Post693086

I broke in my TR6 engine with GM EOS additive (no longer available) and have enough to do the same with my Midget engine. Then used an oil with the amount of ZDDP that I wanted. I actually called the company and talked to one of their engineers to verify that.
Although happy with the oil I was using I recently switched to Brade Penn Grade 1. After driving over 700 miles last weekend I am very happy with the new oil.

I know, wrong car brand but you might enjoy some photos of the drive anyway.

http://smithtr6.com/hwy-35_u.htm

http://smithtr6.com/mindoro.htm

tomshobby

This thread was discussed between 27/07/2010 and 28/07/2010

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

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