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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Mounting Fenders

I am getting back to my long delayed midget project. All of the rusted metal has been cut away and replaced and I am ready to begin the final body work and paint when the weather warms up again.

My question has to do with mounting the front cowl and wings. Is there any gasket or other material that goes between the metal parts where they make contact? Or, do these parts just bolt together directly without anything to prevent metal to metal contact?

My guess is that the parts bolt directly together, but I am concerned that the paint will be damaged when the bolts are drawn down, providing a spot for rust to begin.

I image this question has been answered before, but it did not turn up with quick look into the archives. Any advice will be most appreciated.

Thanks.

Paul Noeth

Paul -

Nope, they just bolt together. Yeah, I know... but it was a simpler time, before those plastic threaded bits that prevent metal to metal contact between panels. And you can't really insert anything in there without messing up the fit.

Cheers,

-:G:-
Gryf Ketcherside

Gryf,

It was several years ago when I took the fenders off and I don't remember seeing anything that separated the panels. I wanted to make sure that was the case before putting it back together and then later finding out I made a big mistake.

I hope the modern paints will hold up under the abuse.

Thanks for the insight.

PN
Paul Noeth

Can't you just squidge some silicon or putty-type mastic on the two flanges as you bolt them up? The excess will get squeezed out and cleaned off - but should achieve a waterproof seal.
Steve Clark

I've used carefully trimmed bits of old bicycle inner tube to make gaskets for some metal/metal joints in the past (The joint between rear bumper iron and bodywork)
Dean Smith ('73 RWA)

I like the silicon idea. Gryf is right, I think, that adding gaskets will result in fit problems, but a little bead of silicon where the metal touches will get squeezed to nearly nothing. I think it would also help eliminate squeeks.

I am concerned that it might be hard to get the parts apart if ever needed. Steve, do you know anyone who has done that?

I also like Dean's idea of using a gasket to mount the bumpers. That shouldn't mess up the fit.
Paul Noeth

I think you should use latex instead of silicone. Silicone has the reputation of causing paint to loosen or rust. Don't know that for a fact but better safe than sorry----------Hank
Hank Wilson

What kind of latex? Are you thinking of a latex caulk? I had not heard about silicone causing cured paint to fail, but it could be true. One of the problems when you try something like this is that you don't know if you are helping matters or making them worse until the car has been back on the road for a while. Maybe the best course of action would be to just bolt them up dry, like they did when the car was first built.
Paul Noeth

You could put some waxoyl around the holes and flanges. That way it forms a seal when you bolt them up, it won't damage the paint, and it won't cause trouble if you have to take them off again.

Ant
Ant Allen

Ive done what Ant says: 1 let the paintwork get completly hard before putting things together.
2 put plenty of waxoil on both parts let that dry too(doesnt get hard) and aply another layer of waxoil and put the parts together.
If you think its nessecary spray waxoil on/in the seams once the parts are bolted together and wipe of the execive waxoil.
Dip the bolts and nuts in coppergrease and everything wil be protected and come loose nice and undamaged.

Ive just had my right frontwing off after 10 years of use/abuse of my midget and the wing came of so easy without any paintdamage or rust anywhere and the bolts-nuts are still in super condition.

Never rush building a car and take time to "protekt" parts and bolts and after acouple years when you have to replace parts broken/worn/damaged youll be so pleased it comes of easely.
Arie de Best

Using bicycle inner tubes is an old trick. Hotrodders used to use it, but it does deteriorate over time. I like the idea of copper grease on the bolts (I did that) and Waxoyl in the joint (didn't do that; should've). I wouldn't use a sealant - silicone or latex - since anything that could potentially hold water and keep it from draining is a baaaaad thing.

My two cents; I'll take my nap now...

Glen
G. D. Phillips

Paul,

on the heritage shell it's a case of metal to metal and the person who painted it didn't take the bits apart to add any sealant but he did seal all the joints to stop water ingress. Modern two pack is pretty hard stuff though.
When puttting the s/steel bonnet leading edge finisher on I used a combination of Dinitrol and silicone to sit it on before pop rivetting on and watching the surplus ouse out.
Agree that copperease is great to put on threads and makes life a lot easier alter on.
Good luck.

Jeremy
Jeremy 3

I'm liking the idea of Waxoyl and copper grease on the bolts. That should give good corrosion protection and allow for easy removal of the parts, should that ever be necessary.

Thanks everyone for your good advice. Now I feel I'm on the right track.

Paul
Paul Noeth

This thread was discussed between 08/01/2009 and 13/01/2009

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG Midget and Sprite Technical BBS is active now.