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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - My new engine's head requirements

Apologies as this is copied from a thread on the general board but I didn't want to clog up some one else's thread and it's a technical question

It seems to get the copmression ratio down to useable limits on the new engine, I'm going to have to go for a (very expensive) sculpted Longman type contraption.
This according to Avonbar.
A quick call to Peter Burgess albeit with me giving him minimal information resulted in him saying that there isn't enough room in an A series head to do what needs doing to get the compression low enough on a road engine.But I apologise to him if I missunderstood.

The details are according to the scribbled note that came with the engine:

Crank 10 thou under
Bore 60 thou
Decked 60 thou
Piston midget 6mm dish
Kent 276 cam
Metro oil pump
up rated ball spring
1330/4 = 332.5
Ring land volume = 0.78cc
Head gasket = 4.2cc
Combustion Chamber 21.4cc (this assumes 12G940 casting)
VC = 32.38 size = 4>
332.5 + 32.38/32.38 = 11.26 compression ratio.

Using the same figures and equation Alan added 0.62cc which equates to the distance between piston top and block deck. This reduces CR to 11.07

The Centre main bearing has now been strapped.

Avonbar recommended their GT6-1 head

LF 1275 Suitable for all A+Engines from 1275 to 1380cc 12G940 Inc SPi 36x29 21.5 4/Comp 9 GT6/1 £525.00 £ 616.87
But the 21.5 becoming 24.5 if I remember correctly.

As those of you who know me will know this all means absolutely nothing to me, I am however quite a good cook
Same old Gary

Gary

I'd be tempted to stick is back together and give it a go.

I used 10.5:1 with a change to the dissy advance curve to Aldon AY100V spec (reduced advance in mid-range to eliminate detonation due to increased CR) and had no problems using 95 unleaded and octane booster (for belts and braces; probably not needed).

I'd advise you to use super-unleaded (Shell is 98 Octane and I use this for my Honda with good effect). Try without octane booster initially.

You'll need a remapped dissy like the Aldon in any case for CRs above 10:1.

HTH

A
Anthony

A couple of things here. I do not fully understand the decked 60 thou?
When we talk about "decking" the block we normally mean that it is machined to the height of the pistons, I assume here it means 60 thou was removed from the block which I would assume was too much for the piston height but who knows?

However if your calculations are correct what is wrong with a CR of 11.07 or indeed 11.26, would seem to me to be ideal for a road car!

The effort to install and remove the head is minimal and if the normal head caused pinking then a simple change of head would not be out of the way would it!

What canm does the engine use? a hot cam may well increase the CR required anyway.

If you did experience a bit of pinking then simply coming slightly of the throttle at 3.5 to 5K revs would cure it when you heard it, until you got the opportunity to sort the head. Although I would be very surprised if it did pink.
Bob England

Hi Bob,

The cam is a Kent 276.
Same old Gary

Well that is a reasonably warm cam so I think a CR of around 11/1 is more than ideal. I know Ant has a differing opinion to mine on the question of CR but I have never had an issue with a decent cam and 11.5 CR running on 95 octane fuel. Sometimes I do find that some people tend to give the engine too much overall advance which WILL cause pinking in the mid rancge. If you go with the normal head and normal dissy then set the timing at 32 degrees max . If it pinks slightly at midrange then drop that figure back to 30degrees max. This will have no effect on top end power but may cause the tickover to need increasing slightly and fuel consumption to rise slightly when cruising. Changing the dissy map would help to get back better fuel economy if you found 32 to be slightly too much
Bob England

Thanks Anthony and Bob for your answers.
My current engine has (as a stop gap) a metro turbo head on it. Would that be any better to use than a standard head?
I also intended to use it with (Alex Wainwright's) vizzarded Hif44 on the correct Titan manifold. But would my existing good condition twin 1 and a quarters change anything for better or worse?
Same old Gary

The standard Metro Turbo runs a CR of 9.4 to 1. (yes even with a boost of about 7 PSI) demonstrating IMO that CR can be well above this figure.

That said I am unsure about chamber size in the head without doing some research but I have a feeling it is a standard casting with sodium filled exhaust valves. I would definately use it no matter what.

A HIF44 carb IMO is far more reliable than the twins and easier to set up. Vizarding (IMO) adds about zero but of course I am not a god! so use it.
Bob England

What Bob said!

I am not about to Vizardify my HIF for such a minscule advantage

As I said on the other weekend thread, go for it, especially now the centre main has been strapped. Then I can relax at the track, watching you and Toby and Rache leaving me behind dicing with Mark.
Bill

If by Vizarding, do you mean cutting out half the spindle and reducing the size of the screw thread / bifurcation in the air-flow?

Still worth doing on an HS6/HIF44 IMO... and half the work on a single carb installation.

Agree with Bob... get the turbo head installed!

A
Anthony

Garys engine is +60 = 1330 cc
1330 / 4 = 332.5

ring land 0.78
piston dish 6cc
head gasket (mini turbo) 3.4cc
Head 24.5 (reworked) std:21cc (approx)
piston/deck 0.6
= 35.28
gives 10.42 CR 11.46 CR


His cam is a Kent 276.

Gary you have e-mail.
Alan.
Alan Anstead

It's the £700 for the head that I'd like to avoid.
Same old Gary

just to clarrfy above with a 24.5cc cylinder head chamber it will be 10.42CR
With a stock 21cc cylinder head chamber it will be at 11.46CR.

Pistons are stock +60.
Alan.
Same old Gary

How did that happen?

Gary
Same old Gary

ghosts in the machine?

how does my user name revert to wmohan sometimes without outside influence it seems

oddball stuff around here at times
Bill

and the attached images seem to have dissapeared now as well.
G Lazarus

I can see the images, they're hiding down a panel gap....
David Smith(davidDOTsmithATstonesDOTcom

Doesn't the Turbo head have a fat and restrictive exhaust guide boss?

If you need lower compression, the Alloy 1275 heads have something silly as a standard chamber size. Designed with 'blown' engines in mind? 28cc rings a bell. The alloy also dissipates heat a lot better so, maybe, less detonation probs.
rob multi-sheds thomas

But rob, surely an alloy head is going to cost even more that a made to measure 12G940 head.
G Lazarus

Gary, another change of persona?

When that happened to me the BBS Software allowed me to revert to Bill sdgpm again.
Have you tried to see wottappened?
Bill

Might be cheaper now that the US$ in dropping back towards 2:1. Mine cost about £500uk a couple of years ago.



just found this......


There are several advantages inherent to an aluminum cylinder head including a great deal of weight savings and considerably improved cooling. This improvement in cooling means we can now run higher compression ratios without detonation caused by localized hot spots.
Other improvements to this head are less obvious; for example, flow has been considerably improved by reshaping the combustion chamber. This was made possible by relocating the spark plug and upgrading to 12mm plugs. Early tests indicate that this head right out of the box flows comparably to a Longman GT6.
The heads are supplied as shown, with bronze valve guides and hardened valve seats installed and valve springs seats, but no valves, springs or studs. As standard the head is ready to fit 1.15" exhaust and 1.31" intake valves and has a 23cc chambers with a thick deck to allow for plenty of skimming.
Largest valves that might be fitted without changing valve seats are 1.48" intakes and 1.22 exhaust! How does it perform? We've run one on the dyno, and here's what the numbers look like. The test engine was a 1275 with .040 flat top pistons. Test #1 is a stock cylinder head, test #2 is the Aluminum head with standard valves.
RPM HP#1 HP#2
3000 47.80 47.60
3500 56.12 56.97
4000 64.22 67.23
4500 70.31 73.30
5000 73.50 76.30
5500 72.93 79.25
6000 -------- 80.27
As you can see, the aluminum head shows a measurable power increase above 3500 RPM, and, whereas the motor would not pull beyond 5500 RPM with the stock head, with the aluminum head it pulled past 6000 RPM! Flow bench tests show the alloy head outperforms the standard at all lifts.
Also, early indications are that this head responds well to mild porting above the valves.
Uses spark plug RA8HC.
rob multi-sheds thomas

Bare head is about $1050 US and a built-up one is about $1400
rob multi-sheds thomas

Hi kids...

If I may wade in with a pair of size 13's...

CR is king; think of it as cheap hp..

1310, 270 Cam and 11.5:1 gives me 106Hp and this was tame to make sure that it could cope with central london so I would suggest that would be the best route to go (contraverial, agreeing with Bob R but there you go ;-)

Alloy would be nice and with the $:£ rate at the moment I would be putting in a call to Pearce just to see, otherwise talk to ATP who source their stuff from Pearce.

I will chase up the people who are doing mine; I called last week and it should have been delivered for pressure testing by now. My old one can come off and be donated as one of us might as well have a sorted car for next month (If my head turns up then I have the incentive to sort it out)


Carb-wise there is bugger all difference between a HIF and HS setup in terms of numbers (and yes, I have checked and done the work to establish this as Gary knows) but I would always go for a HIF as it is much easier to manage/balance/sort out problems by virtue of there only being the one carb!


Oh and Lois is a better cook...
Toby Anscombe

Mythbuster Toby!

I agree with him

:-)

And Toby, get chasing!
Bill

So are you all saying that I should just stick on a standard head and wing it?
Definitive answers please for a boy with a simple grasp of life.
G Lazarus


yes

Usual Payen gasket answer too
Bill

The Kent 276 like a C/R of about 10.5:1 to work at it's best, IF you can build your engine to work with that, then I think that best. BUT going higher to say 11.5:1 will give you better power and as you are running 1330, you could go to a Kent 286 or an old 649, but that may be a bit 'lumpy' for London traffic.

Mark.
Mark Boldry

With some trepidation I raise my ageing bonce over this particular parapet, being neither engineer nor good cook (but I can sing 'Blow the wind southerly' to make you think the late Kathleen Ferrier is back amongst us - any use?).

Why has no-one mentioned the 12G295 head fitted to the 10CC engine HAN8/GAN3? Not that thick on the ground, but not rare and available for a sight less than £600 - and a combustion chamber volume of 28.3cc.

Smaller valves - not necessarily a bad thing, but anyway easily recified - and a well-flowed head as standard. I'm aware the bore centring is different between small-bore and big-bore blocks, but since so many 12G940 heads go onto small-bore blocks these days, perhaps the reverse is also possible?

Just a thought, though I must admit I'd side with the 'why worry?'ers. Shell V-Power and Tesco 99 are readily available and there's even BP Ultimate 102 in odd spots.

Tom
Tom Coulthard

Gary,

Going back to your initial post.

Is the piston dish 6mm deep, or 6cc volume? Assume it's 6cc as this appears to be in the unswept volume calculation?

You say it (assume the block?) is decked by 60 thou, but what is the depth of the piston from the top of the block at TDC? What have you used to get the 0.62cc? It would suggest that the piston is within 0.005/0.006" of the top of the block (good idea, but is it?)

Richard
Richard Wale

What's the best way to measure the depth of the piston from the top of the block at TDC? Flat bar and feeler guages perhaps?

I got results varying between 6 thou and 20 thou with a dial test indicator - good fun, but not very useful. I thought this could well be because of inevitable lack of stiffness in the stand arrangement. It also worried me that the piston seemed to return significantly different heights at different points around the rim (should I worry?).

This amount of variation results in a CR difference of 0.4:1, so isn't negligible. However, it is less than the stated variation in compressed thickness for the various gaskets, and the same as the difference I have seen quoted for the same gasket from separate suppliers.

Tom
Tom Coulthard

from what I have read and heard, the aluminum head is vary prone to cracking, far worse then cast iron and I dont think they can be pinned as easily as a cast iron head.....with the #'s you provided the hp was not all that much until around 5500rpm,,,and even then it was only 6.5 HP....even at the 3500-4000rpm range (normal driving)it was only 3 HP ....which I guess is 5% and 10% of stock,,,,but Id rather invest the $1400 in a really nice ported head with a 1:1.5 roller rocker assembly and some rimflow valves then punch out some real HP.


prop
Prop

Prop - the weight is also a decent saving and that will effect more than just Hp.
Toby Anscombe

The alloy head weighs less (I can pick one up with my little finger!), they can take larger valves than an iron head due to smaller plugs and wider spaced guides (?) and can be welded if you cock it up. Their ability to shift heat reduces the need for fancy cooling solutions. You can also drive a bus down the standard intake ports. Ports bigger than a certain set of front wing gaps that I know of!

Pierce also did a polished version without the casting marks. Bet that looks nice.
rob multi-sheds thomas

The alloy heads sold by Pierce Manifolds Inc. are actually made for them by a company called PBS engineering:

http://www.pbseng.com/SplProducts.html

You never see weights quoted for a fully built-up alloy head against a cast iron one. It's like alloy radiators - they're pretty, but there are many more cost-effective ways of adding front-end lightness.

Alloy dissipates heat much better, but you don't necessarily want that heat dissipated - heat is power. As I understand it, an alloy head HAS to have a higher CR to achieve the same combustion pressure as a cast iron one: the higher CR isn't of itself producing more power.

For 'silly money' mods, ceramic coating sounds much more interesting - but how long does it stay coated?

http://www.hi-flow.com/HPJH1.htm

Tom
Tom Coulthard

Will any of these baby's do the job?
I understand that one of them is an 11 stud head.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=140217793338&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=004

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=290218337442&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=019

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=280213046248&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=018
G Lazarus

Bare alloy head weighs a gnats' under 5kg, according to my scales in the garage. Iron head was off the end of the scale. Guess at about 13 to 15 kgs?
rob multi-sheds thomas

I'm tempted by the last one of the three.
G Lazarus

I would avoid the first one, no-one needs ports that big.
Tarquin

I'd avoid the last one, valve sizes OTT for a road car.
David Smith(davidDOTsmithATstonesDOTcom

Has anyone got a nice head that I can buy? (that doesn't cost £600).
G Lazarus

For the sake of sanity Gary, just ask Alan to put your own turbo head on for now.

Then you can run the new lump in and check it out, as is.

I will even drive around behnd you and report on aromatic parts in the atmosphere.

And when you find another head you really truly like I'll bung it on for you

Let's get you on track soon huh...
Bill

I've got a spare brand new Morspeed race head with standard size midget valves and sensible ports
John Collinson

How much John as I want the new head on the new engine before I remove the old engine.
My email address is firstname second name@blueyonder.co.uk

Thaks

Gary
G Lazarus


Better sort it soon Gazza, running out of time for the track!

...says the man with no working head and half the bodywork missing!
Bob T

No I'll be thrashing the old engine at Marham. It wouldn't do to have one of Her Majesty's military Airfields too free of oil now would it.
If the old engine survives the trackday and I can the car can carry 60 litres of oil, I may not switch engines until after Le Mans.
G Lazarus

Nice of you to let me know. I'll leave some space in my diary for after LeMans.
Alan.
Alan Anstead

Alan those last little bits ordered from Moss today. Let's hope that they don't deliver thirty of them this time.
As you can see, I'm still trying to get hold of a spare head.
G Lazarus

Gary, I mailed my phone number - if you didn't get it mail me at john.collinson2@btinternet.com.

John
John Collinson

Hi Gary

I reckon you would have needed 25.5 ccs to drop the CR to a safe 10.2 for the 276 cam for road use. We often have heads at 24 ccs once modified and before skimming. I wouldn't like to ruin a head trying to get more ccs. If you had a 286 then 10.5 CR is good for road use. The problem with A series is mild cams and high CR can give rise to very hot number 4 cyl and detonation. Retarding timing can give less bhp than running lower CR in the first place. More CCs in chamber mean bigger chamber, bigger chamber means further for flame to burn across chamber, resulting in detonation. You would be better off skimming pistons to reduce CR.

Peter
peter burgess

So I have a choice,

1.Scrap the engine (sell it as is) and buy another.
2.Get the pistons skimmed (what does that entail) along with a suitable head if that is possible.
3.Run it as is and blow up the engine.
4.Buy a Longman GT6-1 Head with (according to Avonbar) the combustion chambers opened from 21.5cc to 25+cc.

I'm looking for the cheapest best option.
G Lazarus

option 5

run it without blowing it up with a normal head until another option comes along

fit a programmed ignition to control ignition timing microscopically - Toby is your man there

??????????????????????????????????????????

Bill

Better option may be next weekend....

Depending on the phase of the moon and my supplier of all things heady...

We can discuss over a beer and the sound of tires squealing...
Toby Anscombe

Gary -

My suggestion of a 12G295 head appears to have fallen on deaf ears - and there may be problems, though not insuperable ones I would have thought, with the alignment of the water transfer ports between block and head.

So another ultra-cheap suggestion:

http://tinyurl.com/5c5sex

Decompression plates are also available from Vmax Scart just beyong Kingston:

http://www.vmaxscart.co.uk/supercharger.html

I don't think "Run it as is and blow up the engine" is entirely fair to posters such as Anthony and Bob who have taken the time to give detailed advice.

Tom
Tom Coulthard

I agree with you there Tom option three has to be a nonstarter

Has anyone actually compared the 12G295 against a 12G940 dimensionwise?

The basic block dimensions arent that far out are they after all, bore locations basically the same?

I seem to remember that there was arather big peak inside beteween the valves that needed taking away on the head I skimmed for my mad A35*

The use of a compression plate at 6cc with two head gaskets should be a fair prospect to reduce the CR, but without actually making the real measurements on the deck to piston crown we are working on the description Gary had on a bit of cardboard when he had the engine

Alan if you are watching did you measure the deck to piston height yourself or just base the work on the stated dimensions


*I suppose this means another session trying to get to grips with Vizard, and the sums do hurt my little brain
Bill

Tom,

Many thanks and to everyone else who has taken teh time to answer on this semi marathon thread.

Is this solution really as simple as it seems. Adding another 6/9/11 cc's to lower the compression. Is there any extra inherent weakness in having two Head gaskets? I've already got ARP head studs on my current engine.
Is there any reason why I shouldn't take the decompression plate route?

Toby's head, my engine ooh er missus.
G Lazarus

Piston top to top of block is 0.006 in.
The vendors calcs ommitted this otherwise his figures appear correct.
Alan Anstead

How could you blow the engine up?

Even if the CR was too high and I am almost 100 percent sure it is not then simply easing off the throttle if the car pinks is all that is required. This will then simply need the timing backing off to 30 or even 28 degrees to cure whilst another head is sourced. It is a no brainer.
Take my word for it you will HEAR it pinking and once heard you will ALWAYS know what it sounds like.

The thing is Gary if you never do these things you will never know for yourself and you will then be at the mercy of a dozen different opinions on engines. This thread is becoming crazy!!
Bob (robert) Midget Turbo

Blimey...

If its causing that much hassle then I'll whip it off over the weekend; After all, i still have some bits to finish before I get any noise out of it and I am hoping that my new one will turn up next week.
Toby Anscombe

Hi Bob

about 10 years ago I lost a customers engine after three laps at Mallory and we couldn't hear it pink. In the end I dropped the timing back 2 degrees lost a couple of bhp and it worked.
I cannot always hear the pinking at high rpm. I can smell the results as the engine burns some oil and gives off a characteristic pong! I have tried to listen to pinking with microphones and tried to pick it up on oscilloscopes but not managed to isolate the noise yet. I try to run minimum advance to get the bhp out. If Gary runs as is I reckon a rolling road session is a must.

Peter
peter burgess

Tom suggested a decompression plate. At 6cc this would appear to place the CR in high 8's.

If one were used and the head skimmed to give a chamber size of (for instance) 19cc then

1330 / 4 = 332.5

piston top to deck 0.62
ring land volume 0.78
piston dish 6.00
Head gasket(2@ 3.4)6.8
Combst Chmbr 19
= 39.2

332.5 + 39.2 / 39.2 = 9.48CR

Will an 11+ CR create concern for longevity / reliability on stock pistons and an unbalanced, although strapped, bottom end?
Alan Anstead

Alan - My maths made it 9.22:1 CR with a 6cc plate, but agree that's still too low to be a useful bolt-on fix. Decompression plates (Gary) are not a very elegant solution in engineering terms, but they seem to do alright in blown engines, despite the additional stresses.

Bill - <<a rather big peak inside between the valves>> Those are what Vizard calls the closed-chamber small block heads, which gave excellent economy: the 12G295 is a much more performance-oriented head, as befits one developed from FJ. However, the smallish valves are more shrouded than on the 12G940, so it's probably not a viable ultra-cheap option, either.

Gary - skimming pistons involves taking a few mm of the top - like skimming cream off milk or fat off gravy (culinary analogies for you!). Though it sounds quite a palaver, it is pretty standard practice provided there is enough 'meat' in the pistons. I'm sure it would be quite the most sensible thing for you to do in the circumstances.

Of course it would be, since it was suggested by Peter Burgess, who walks amongst us as a God among men despite the inexplicable fondness for MGBs. His book 'How To Power Tune MGB 4-Cylinder Engines For Road & Track' (in Veloce's Speeedpro series) is far more informative, better-written and easier to follow than the equivalent Speedpro book on the A-series.

Since the A-series really is a smaller version of the B-series, much of Peter's book is directly relevant and I strongly recommend it to all 1275 Spridgeteers.

Tom

Just seems a pity, though, losing all that lovely compression and power. Peter - wouldn't V-Power/Tesco 99 and perhaps doses of Tetraboost cope?
Tom Coulthard

Yerss Tom it's been quite a while since I even saw a 12G295 but I do remember the 295 wasn't as restricted in the chamber as the head I took off the A35

(Bloomin'eck that was back in the early seventies, wow. Time flies when you are having fun doesnt it?)

I still tend heavily in the direction of "use what you have" and as you say plop lots of additive if "pink" becomes a part of the event horizon.
Bill

Bilmey!

You can run a high compression (10.5:1 or higher) with no problem at all if you can control the ignition..

The "ramp" should stay the same up to about 3k and then be less from 3-4k and end up a couple of degrees lower than a "normal" head.

You don't need to spend a fortune on the same setup that I have as you can buy just a MegaJolt solution which only has sparks and not sparks and fuel.

Put it this way: I have run almost the same cam with the same compression with no problems at all for a good number of years as well you know. Not that I am disagreeing with Peter who does know wayyy more than me just that it hasnt hurt me (yet! Of course I haven't had the head off since I had it built and that was well over 4 years ago).

If you are going to go to the extent of machining the pistons then you really should get them coated; £32 per piston or £300 for the pistons, valves and combustion chamber which allows you to add a bit more advance and a bit more compression and thus a bit more power. Ok, so thinking about it, its not as cheap as I first thought but you only buy one head and you are never going to make money on an engine and knowing you, you will be keeping the car for a long time. Lets say that optimistically buggering about with ceramics will give you an extra 5% (which I think is about right); on the sort of spec that you are looking at £300 for 5hp by the time you have exhausted all the normal routes is not a bad price but to be considering it you are at the limit of diminishing returns....

In my case its easier to lose the 4 stone that I have put on since I first bought the car 10 years ago to get the benefit ;-)

Sorry, I've had a couple of ciders so I am rambling...
Toby Anscombe

A new day, a new post...

Gary, I got the news back from Peter (M), my head is 22cc so figure that into the plans...

If you want me to rip it off during the week and bring it at the weekend I will
Toby Anscombe

Toby why dont you whip that head off and bring it with you next weekend anyway

from way back in the depths of the thread it seemed that what was needed was a larger that 21 andan arf cc chamber and PM has told you that yours is

Gary get cooking! Something around that should be good to go
Bill

Yes pleeaase.
Now how to increase it a bit more. Extra thick head gasket?
G Lazarus


I dont like the idea of a double HG, its okay for a stock motor, but having that worry on a hi performance engine would take the fun out of it real quick.

I Think your best option (as stated earlier) is to get the pistons milled off...(not a big deal) and the piston tops ceramic coated....for that matter you can do the piston Ceramic coating yourself, call one of these companys and they can set you up.



http://www.caswellplating.com/index.html

or this company

http://techlinecoatings.com/Retail.htm

prop

Prop

that head seems absolutely fine 'as is' - will give about 10.5 to 1 - just run it on Tesco's 99 and it will be superb, no problems. JFDI.
David Smith(davidDOTsmithATstonesDOTcom

Agree with DS... more typing that spannering... JFDI (squared)

A
Anthony

I should know but what does "JFDI" mean. I'm guessing at "Just F*kc*ng do it"!
G Lazarus

Good Guess Gary.

Now JFGOWI
Steve Clark

YOTVW
G Lazarus

Not getting into acronyms, because of what they're doing to the language. Plus they're a symptom of the appalling quangoisation of British society.

If you want a thick head gasket, Gaz, (as belt-and-braces until you can get it on Peter's RR?), these people seem to be the cat's behind:

http://www.ferriday.co.uk/cnc/decompression_plates.shtml

I know this page is about decompression plates, but as he maintains at the top, they're no different from thick gaskets. Also see the page 'Cu & bi-metal gaskets', but I found that a bit heavy going.

I think their main trade is in thick copper gaskets for competition cars. He also seems to reckon that you should only use one gasket with a decompression plate...

As the temperature has risen a bit, I'm off to the garage to FGOW my own little C.

Tom
Tom Coulthard

Thanks all. I'll let you know what happens.....when it happens.

TTFN
G Lazarus

This thread was discussed between 31/03/2008 and 08/04/2008

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

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