Welcome to our resource for MG Car Information.



MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG Midget and Sprite Technical - New Owner

Good Day.

I've just purchased my first midget.
Haven't even touched it yet...I pick it up on Saturday.
1972 LHD North American market.

It's a driver in need of a little "TLC" apparantly.
I own several classic MINIs, so used to the A series engines....just not pointing the wrong way ;-)

I imagine I'll be in here plenty, asking questions and trying to learn all about these bigger cars.
M Toon

Hi M Toon,
get a profile photo up as soon as you get so we can all see it

my usual advice to new owners is in many threads on here or you can have the note emailed to you if you want it

basically get the Driver's Handbook (that's not a workshop manual) for all you need to know about running and servicing the car

carry out a full and proper 36k-mile service then keep the car fully and properly serviced, maintained and repaired

drive the car often and regularly as that will keep iron out wrinkles at the start and keep it in good condition and you'll learn to drive it to its full potential

enjoy and welcome
Nigel Atkins

How often does someone describe a Midget as a "bigger car" !!! Welcome Mr/Ms Toon. Ask whatever you like. No question is too stupid. The stupid person is the one who doesn't ask.
Mike Howlett

I've never called it a "bigger car", but I still do call my Sprite a Mini with the roof off.
Lawrence Slater

Bigger !? Ignoring wing mirrors a Midget is slightly narrower than a mini :-)

Welcome :-)
Dean Smith ('73 RWA)

Thank you.
By "bigger" ;-), I do indeed mean bigger than the MINIs I presently have. ( I know a MINI has more room inside...much more actually )

I leave tomorrow at 0630 to pick it up with trailer.
I'm picking it up with trailer as the car is unknown to me, it's a 4.5hr one way trip, and it's winter.

First thing will be to bleed the clutch as the owner replaced the cylinder but can't bleed it due to health reasons.

It's black...not my favourite colour. Was black a factory colour...
It's missing the MIDGET from the sides...were these present in 72? Being that they aren't there leads me to believe the car has been painted.
M Toon

"......but can't bleed it due to health reasons."

I think we've all felt like trying that excuse!
Good luck and enjoy!


yes black was a factory colour, as per page 115 - Original Sprite & Midget The Restorerís Guide by Terry Horler Ė

unless there are holes for the name i wouldn't worry about the name badges

certainly sounds like you'd do well to get the Driver's Handbook and 36k mile service
Nigel Atkins

"certainly sounds like you'd do well to get the Driver's Handbook and 36k mile service"


M, meet Nigel. This is how he always introduces himself, I believe :).
Lawrence Slater


Should have matt black sills with lettering; likely the sills have been replaced.

Anthony Cutler

Good luck with the "new midget". I am sure you will have many fun day on the road as well as in the garage.
jt simmons

Good luck with the pick up and welcome to the Midget world!

Originality is appriciated by some but certainly not needed to enjoy a midget.

Midget engines are a little bit more prone to leaking than the transverse version you are used to.
This is mainly due to the scroll seal at the rear where the mini's have a real seal.
But the midgets are a little less critical in the oil/filter department due to not sharing the oil with the gearbox.

A good midget is alot more fun than a mini.
Gearchanges are realy good with the ribcase a world of difference from the stiring in the pot sensation from a mini.
Steering is not hampered by the drive going through them and is lighter and better weight.
Driving position is 1000% better.
And rear wheel drive is a lot of fun.

Just don't go in to fast corners as you where used to......
Onno K

Looks like I have ALOT of electrical work ahead of me....almost nothing works.
M Toon

Electrics on these machines are very simple so will cause a proper /Mini man no issues

The car looks pretty good so get stuck in!!
Robert (Bob) Midget Turbo

start with checking the earth straps/connections a lot of trouble is earth related.
Onno K


That looks like a good purchase. Did you get it cheap?

As regards wiring, it's not that different to a Mini. All came from the same stable.
Lawrence Slater

Had a closer look at the car today.
Runs pretty rough right now for somereason.
Did a compression test and adjusted tappet clearance.
Compression is ~130lb in all.
This is a low compression didn't expect much higher.
Heres something

It is registered as a 72.
It is a round wheel arch car.
In the box of spares that came with it was a drivers handbook.
Inside it was a car # plate.
Measures aprox 4"x2"
I'm assumming this is from under the bonnet somewhere.
The car # is GAN5UD135011 G
Above that is stamped 5 73

Could I possibly have a 73...not a 72 ?

M Toon

M Toon,
the plate number would be 1973 and probably May -

from Heritage Motor Centre Archives Services web page;
'first chassis numbers of the relevant models built in 1973 - Midget mk III, G-AN5 (UD), 129951-G' -

from Original Sprite & Midget The Restorerís Guide by Terry Horler Ė
page 116, GAN5-134186 - (May 1973)

if the Driverís Handbook is the relevant one to your car it should tell you loads that you need to know including wiring diagram and full servicing schedule

a good battery, battery connections, leads and earths will be essential for sorting the electrics

a lot of the time electric problems can be sorted by just cleaning and protecting all connections and wire Ė clean, secure, protect

fresh grease regularly to the 6 front suspension nipples and just before annual inspections(?) is also a good problem prevention

doing the full 36k mile service with find and sort the whole car and will probably sort the rough running engine

I know itís very tempting but the engine is one of the less important components on the car, if youíre not going to do the full service in one go then start with the brake, steering and suspension systems including wheels and tyres, then lights and wipers, then cooling and heating systems, last is engine and drive components
Nigel Atkins

Thanks for the info Nigel.
I agree....the engine is the least of my concerns at the moment.
I've had a look and started a list.
Need new brake pads, shoes rear cylinders, front hoses, steering rod ends...I'll need to read up and figure out this strange front's a little different than the rubber cones I'm used to in MINIs.

I did a compression test on the guage gives me ~135lb on each cylinder....I'm pretty happy they are all close.
It's an 8.0/1 compression, so I didn't expect much higher.

Set all tappet clearances to .012"

Previous owner had stated that oil would leak out the dip stick hole when running.
I found the front breather piped into the valve cover breather!
Where would each of these have been routed originally?
The charcoal cannister has been removed....I though maybe they would have gone there....or to the intake (?)
M Toon

Funny calling mini suspention normal!!

For now I would just lube the frons suspention and not be lured in to doing kingpins, wheelbearings etc.
There usualy is something wrong there but it won't fall appart (doing 10000km on rotten bearings/ hubs and it still works)

Compression seems fine certainly if they are all equal.

Breathers on US cars are unknown to me.
But in general you can either just vent both to atmosphere (use a hole in one of the splash plates) or use one of the vents on the carb with a pvc valve in between
Onno K

Sorry I don't know but it will be in the relevant Driver's Handbook it's full of useful info like breather, vent, filters, valve

to be honest the US car are more much more complex than our simple UK cars and the UK cars are beyond me

on my UK '73 a pipe runs from the oil seperator on the front of the timing chain cover to a Y peice then two half size pipes to the SU carbs

sounds like PO has had some strange ideas and not bothered to look at the Driver's Handbook for the simple solutions

I'll say it again if I was you I'd run through a full 36k mile service (you could do it in stages) as this will pick existing and potential future problems

I'd also:

check brakes - and tyres

change brake and clutch fluids

change coolant

change radiator/expansion tank pressure cap

change fan belt

consider using engine flushing oil on first engine oil change

change g/box and back axle oils

change dissy cap, rotor arm and leads (buy good quality ones) -

and dont assume the parts and components fitted to the car are necessarily the original or correct type or working correctly (as you've already found) and be aware that brand new parts can sometimes be faulty, especially electrical bits (see just above) so dont discount them when problem solving just because they are new, buy good quality parts

Plenty of videos that cover specifically Midget but those that don't cover principes that apply - John Twist gives great, clear advice on serving and repairs in his videos

Nigel Atkins

Driver's Handbook cover will look something like this

but Canadian cover is blue and angle of car photo is different

venting should be as I described for mine - I've just checked in the driver's Handbook! - so check pipes for blockage and the oil filler cap should be black plastic will a vent hole and inside the top part is a rolled mesh filter that may need cleaning (photo to follow as you can only post one photo per post)

Nigel Atkins

I got my information about your car off this DVD

it has factory Parts catalouges, Workshop Manual and of course well you know by now what

Nigel Atkins

Back again

the (rubber hose) pipe off the rocker cover should go to the charcoal absorption canister

the rocker cover short metal spur pipe that the rubber pipe above goes on to has a restrictor connection inside it

there are more pipes but sorry I canít print off a diagram

definitely thereís a recent John Twist video on recharging the charcoal canister

just to make you aware not to put you off - note over here rubber products can be rubbish, main coolant hoses that craze within 9 months Ė thatís why I recommend a silicone set -

just recently Iíve had TRE rubber boots split and steering rack gaiters crack within 6 months

last year a tyre valve that had a deep split, ARB drop links that only lasted 2 years

3-5 years ago I had different lots of fuel hose split

for brake hose the Goodridge set of s/s braided are good

over here potentially poorly made new electrical parts;
CB points, rotor arm, condensers Ė suggest -
indicator flasher units, column stalk controls

heater tap unless you get it from Ashley Hinton

thatís all I can think off at the moment except you might have the later Triumph sourced steering rack thatís greased not oiled with TREs without grease nipple
Nigel Atkins

M Toon, The sump breather was discussed recently.

You said the Previous owner has stuck the front breather into the valve cover breather!

If I have understood you correctly -------

Here is how it should be connected.

From the top of the oil seperator on the timing chain cover, a pipe goes into a y piece. From the y piece two pipes go into the carb bodies.

You can see the pipes and connections you need quite clearly in this picture, courtey of Dean Smith ('73 RWA), Suffolk, United Kingdom, who just posted it in another thread.

Lawrence Slater

Good call L,

I'd forgotten about that photo

looking at the '73 Canadain Driver's Handbook it also has a pipe off the rocker cover (to charcoal canister) and other ommisions plumbing but the PO has removed the charcoal canister and 'amended' the breathing so that oil is coming up out of the dip stick holder tube

see previous posts for details

M Toon has a copy of a Driver's Handbook so if it's the relevant one he'll be able to see how the original plumbing went and it'll have the wiring diagram

what new owner should be without the relevant Driver's Handbook hey !??!
Nigel Atkins

M Toon,
many apologies, I've just thought about it after my last post and checked again in the Driver's Handbook and your system would originally had a SEALED oil cap without filter - now that makes more sense

please ignore what I put before and that photo, no excuse I know but I was rushing this morning and I've got a poorly eye at the moment not to mention servre manflu and headache

mind you, you might need a vented and filtered oil filler cap at the moment with that plumbing arrangement but who knows
Nigel Atkins

Ah yes N, additional plumbing for emissions. Glad my car was spared that. Just the "simple" breather. :)

I suppose that in Canada, you'd have to reinstate all the emissions control pipe work to get a test certificate? Or can you dispense with some of it and just run the simpler instalation pictured below?

Nigel, you should have the owners handbook engraved on your tombstone when they lay you to rest. ;) Which car though?
Lawrence Slater

Nigel and Lawrence...
Thank you both for your info and research.

I had another quick look at the drivers handbook.....not for my 73...looks to be for a 75 or 76. :-(

Thanks for the pic of plumbing...that is what I've seen before.....I'm sure they went into a valve of some sort on the manifold.

All pollution stuff has been remoed from this car...air pump, charcoal cannister etc.

I'm OK with that....the car does not need to pass any sort of inspection.

For now I may just vent the valve cover down to under the engine....and the timing cover breather to the intake.

I have indeed had all the wheels off and inspected.

New front pads and hoses are needed, rear shoes, and wheel cylinders, tie rod ends ( aka-steering rod ends )

I think the timing may be way off....causing the rough running.

I know it fires 1342.....but I've never had an A series with a side entry cap......what is the relative location of wire to each cyl. ( I want to confirm that they havn't been routed wrong

M Toon

M Toon,

you can block the valve cover vent pipe up entirely if you fit a vented filtered oil filler cap as shown below and plumb from oil separator to y piece and on to carbs in other photo below Ė if you lived over here I could let you have a vented filtered oil filler cap but theyíre only £4 to buy from MGOC

>>I'm sure they went into a valve of some sort on the manifold<< some did but not Ď73

assuming the timing isnít different the dissy cap pointing more to the sky than floor then the dissy cap outlet nearest to the radiator end is lead to cylinder 1 (also nearest radiator), next dissy outlet back takes lead to cylinder 3, after coil lead next dissy outlet back goes to cylinder 4 and further dissy outlet goes to cylinder 2

no youíve done your tappets you want to;
check the CB points gap (and lube and oil points and dissy, see any Driverís Handbook for instruction)
check/clean rotor and dissy cap
check/clean HT leads
check/clean and gap plugs

then set timing and finish with fuel mixture just to see how it runs

are your track rod ends with a grease nipple? - beware later steering racks have different TREs

get a copy of that DVD and sell on the later Handbook you have , many, many owners need it

I only have a paper copy of the book relevant to my car :)

I donít believe in tombstones once they harvested my organs they can feed me to the pigs I should make a good meal for a few of them :)
Nigel Atkins

I don't believe they have a grease nipple.
Rubber is cracked up and/or gone, and look like they've been dry for some time now.
More later.
I'll start a relevant thread for new issues that arise.
Thanks for the lead orientation...will double check.
I'm familiar with setting up twin HS2's and the fuel mix etc. so no worries there.
Reason I thought maybe a timing issue is that while "idling" and giving a little turn of the throttle, the carbs were backfiring a little ( well, more than a little ).
M Toon

oh...and the drivers manual that came with isn't in the greatest shape....will be having a look through, but I'm fairly certain it's for a 1500
M Toon

backfiring - igntion electrics, timimg or carbs - service covers them all

Handbook will for for r/b if 75/76 so get the DVD or correct paper copy off eBay or somewhere

you should have the latter Triumph type steering rack 9grease not oil) so TREs will be for that rack and without nipples - (only bit wrong in your correct Handbook on DVD at least)
Nigel Atkins

I am not sure of this, but I believe that the N American 1275 cars from around '72 / '73 had a different crankcase ventilation system to that shown in the photo that Lawrence posted (which is normal for a UK car)

This discussion has been goingf for a while- I was waiting for someone more sure of their facts to chime in first! But I think the N American car had a hose from the canister on the timing chain cover that went to a Pressure Control Valve (PCV) fixed beside the rocker cover, and from that to a vacuum take off on the top of the inlet manifold. The PCV is to control the amount of suction which would otherwise be too high when taken directly off the manifold.

The bit of information that doesn't fit this is the breather pipe on the rocker cover.On earlier cars this was connected via a hose to the front carb air filter housing. but I think this had been dropped by the time of the 1275 cars.

If I am right, there may still be an open connection point on the top of the manifold where the PCV should be, but with nothing attached. This would be sucking air in, weakening the mixture and giving the rough running symptoms mentioned.

Sorry "M" I haven't spotted your name yet so cannot address you directly.

Nice looking car though!


Ah...sorry....Matthew here.

Having originally had a charcoal cannister fitted, I'm fairly certain the valve cover was routed directly there.
The fuel tank vent would also have been routed there.
The timing chain breather would have gone to the manifold as mentioned....will have a closer look tonight and see if I have an openning/leak in the manifold that should have a vent connected.

At lunch I had a look at the drivers Manual....unfortunately it's for another car completely...1975/76 MGB
M Toon

Hello Mathew

Just a quick point

Backfiring/spitting through the carbs is typical (and always has been) of weak mixture, sometimes caused on SUs by lack of oil in the dampers but more often simply carb settings.
Robert (Bob) Midget Turbo

Cheers Matthew!

Ah, of course, N American "smog" installation would account for the rocker cover vent. But the other part of the system that I described may still be relevant. You could look for the presence or absence of connection points on the carb bodies just upstream of the throttle butterflies. If there are none it may suggest a PCV arrangement direct to the manifold as I suggested. I am not very sure of this though - I could be talking absolute rubbish. It has been known before!

PS or, Bob, an unplugged PCV connection point on the manifold! :-)

we already been through it mate - I looked at the 1973 Canadain Driver's Handbook on the DVD

and PCV covered in earlier post and as above

they're just so handy those Handbooks

damper oil would be covered by the service work

(and of course is covered in the details in the Handbook) but still a good call Bob
Nigel Atkins

Yep that's rght Guy an unblocked connection to the carbs will cause extreme weak mixture possibly resulting in spitting through the carburettors. :)
Robert (Bob) Midget Turbo

>>At lunch I had a look at the drivers Manual....unfortunately it's for another car completely...1975/76 MGB<<

sounds like the OP still worked from it :)

I'll see if I can get a diagram up for you but it wont be from the DVD as that locked off unfortunately as that has a very good diagram from you know where
Nigel Atkins

Nigel, I think you have missed, or misunderstood what I was saying.

you could well be right - I've got a poorly eye (luckily it's my most bad one) and sevre manflu

but wait, whoaw, look what I've found floating about on t'interweb - see below

this sort of stuff aught to be in books, no wait, it is in books, the Driver's Hanbook :)

(Matthew don't worry it's a long running joke/battle)

Nigel Atkins

text -

Nigel Atkins

Good illustration Nigel,
Apart from the smog equipment, that shows the crankcase breather arrangement all as in Lawrence's photo - with the Y branch arrangement. It should be correct.

But, what I had in mind was the crankcase ventilation taken via a PCV valve direct to the manifold, rather than via the Y piece and carbs. But as I said early on, I am not confident in my memory of this. Although I do believe the earlier UK cars (1098) had such an arrangement. (photo on p81, Spritely years) I just had the feeling it was an arrangement retained on some N American 1275 cars as well. As I said, the clue will be in whether the carbs have the white plastic connection points alongside the butterflys

yeah Guy Matthew thought it would be like that too but as I put a few posts back it's not it's like this for a Canadian 1973 according to the Driver's Handbook

unless Matthew puts up some engine bay photos it's the best information available at the time and it is from a most reliable source

plus PO has been tinkering with the plumbing possibly using a MGB 75/76 Handbook as his guide :)

as I was about to edit in to my previous post before I was stopped -

good thing I can always keep a thread short isn't it :)
Nigel Atkins

Thanks for that owners manual image.
Pretty much what I expected.
I will plumb the timing chain breather that way.
I may have an old cannister from a MINI here to plumb in the valve cover and fuel vent.
I will get out there and take some pics of the mess I have after dinner
M Toon

as I put you could block off the rocker cover vent and put on a vented filtered oil filler cap and just have it as per UK cars (L's photos)

they run fine that way and everything is easily changed later if desired
Nigel Atkins

OK...Here are some pictures.
You may want to put your hand to your eyes and look between your fingers, as it's a bit scary.
This car is new to me.....I'm not responsible for

Here you can see where the PO had the valve cover vent hooked to the timing chain cover breather.
Also in the can see I do indeed have the "Y" piece between the carbs which SHOULD be connected to the timing breather....yikes

This image shows the somewhat unique thermo housing...the air pump bracket would have attached here.
Charcoal cannister would have been above where the coil can be seen
Dizzy and leads....are they correct?
Front brake/steering
M Toon

Well youíve got the y piece and carb pipe connections at least but I think you might want to check and perhaps clean inside them

Actually Iíd clean the engine bay before I started just cling film any electrical bits you think water could get into spray with engine cleaner aggravate with a brush and rinse with low-pressure open hose and leave to dry

Is there supposed to be any infill between radiator and slam panel (?) at least you can get at the bonnet catch to oil and grease it and the cable

Nice long battery to solenoid lead !

Those brittle looking HT leads are possibly not in the right order but I canít really see to be sure, sorry, nice insinuated spades though

Dash doesnít look bad for itís kind

At least itís sandy soil (?) not rust, my TREs are just as split after only 6 months and at least your gaiter donít look cracked, I canít see if that disc is ridged at the edge but the bush looks a little crusty

Yeah not the neatest work in the engine bay but it doesnít look (at least) that bad

As I put Iíd clean it first that way youíll also be able to easier see leaks of any kind if they develop, it might just need a fair dollop of TLC with servicing and regular driving

Have a look at the 36k service for the MGB and do those as you do it youíll discover and hopefully prevent stuff - cleaning and lubbing is cheap and thatíll cover a lot of the service work, hot oil changes on engine and gearbox and even rear axle can make a big difference as does clean air filters and new plugs and leads (and rotor and dissy cap if required)

Check suspension bits are tight and oil in shocks and see how it drives before considering rebushing for a start

Blimey youíll be out in it at the weekend :)
Nigel Atkins

I wont be washing the engine bay any time soon.
Still winter here...can't turn on the outside taps till late April taking it to the car wash either....till I get a few things sorted.

Pulled out the steering column tonight to get the cowl off and have a look at some horrible wiring and fix the wiper control arm.

Found a flasher unit under there with two spades and three wires going to it...can't see it in the schematic...wires are PG , PW and plain P I think.

Anyway...back at it now.

I will get around to a 36K service.....just need to get a few obvious major things lights and signals etc.
M Toon

Since your car is a LHD model I think you can get away with a normal straight dissy cap.
Should make it a bit more easy.
Though if you takeo off the cap and inspect it carefully you can easly trace what leads go to what position
Onno K

Ah, so it does have the Y piece connection and my supposition was wrong. - I did say I wasn't at all sure of myself!
But I see it does have a connection direct to the manifold, so that will need to be disconnected from the current hose to the Y piece, and then tightly plugged. I wonder what the effect of that wrong connection is on the carburation? The manifold end will have greater suction, at least on overrun, than the carb end upstream of the butterfly. That hose arrangement isn't connecting areas of equal pressure. It might have some rather odd effects and maybe cause the spitting back?

The faulty arrangement with the timing chain cover connected to the rocker cover is making it a closed system with no release of crankcase pressure to atmosphere. That would certainly account for it blowing oil from the dipstick tube! Especially if there is any degree of piston blow-by. It no doubt will also be leaking profusely from the rear scroll seal with the present arrangement of no positive crankcase extraction.

That's not a bad set of pictures. Par for the course on an old car.

Nothing to get frightned by there. I Love the dry track rod end. Very easy to grease.;) And at least you won't get your hands greasy changing it. LOL.

As Guy says. The crank case breater is doing nothing at all except stopping the pressure from escaping. No wonder it comes out of the dup stick, and no doubt the rear scroll on the crankshaft too, and very likely past the seal on the timing cover.

The y piece to manifold is almost a dead certainty for the reason it spits back through the carbs.

Just as a test, before you plumb it properly to the timing cover, ---- block off the y piece and the pipe into the manifold. I would say it will solve the problem right away. At least that problem anyway.

Lawrence Slater

again Driver's Handbook purple wires are horns, interior lights and other stuff not on ignition switch so I wonder if the PO added that in - I don't know some sort of alarm!?

also John Twist videos tell you want colours for which circuits but just as easy to look at the fuse wiring in the Driver's Handbook

I know it's not macho but RTM can be more accurate than supposition and errors on here from the likes of me and others

Iím sure youíll probably find this cheaper over with you but just as an example -

or the DVD, or both as DVD isnít as convenient as a paper copy, you can also get new reprints of the factory Parts Catalogue and factory Workshop Manual

Nigel Atkins

Thanks for the ebay link.

So I had it running yesterday...still seems a little rough, but no spitiing back at me.

I rerouted the timing breather to the Y piece....of course after pulling out the tube that was connected to the Y piece. As you can see from the pics....the tube in the Y went tointo the manifol....silly...when I pulled it out of the Y piece, the PO had plugged it....???

Anyway.....timing cover is now to Y....valve cover to atmosphere...seems fine, and no oil bubbling out of dip stick.
( damn this thing is loud at the moment )

Also checked carbs ( I won't be fine tuning them till I get an exhaust on )
I have correct needles for the car ( ABC ), both jets are at near the same height.....both springs the same ( no colour visible).
I believe the carb numbers were AUD519F and R
Matthew T

Correction.... AUD549
Matthew T

do not rely fully on the Haynes to be always correct, as an example the wiring diagram shows only a 2 fuse fuse box

good point about being able to use a top entry dissy cap and you could get rid of those iffy looking HT leads too unless they're better than they look

coil looks different I wonder is it with an igniter head

carbs -
Nigel Atkins

Welcome to the Midget world Matthew, as you see you will get a lot of help/advice from the guys on here. Has Nigel advised you to get a handbook yet? lol. I've a 72 RWA, they look best in British Racing Green IMHO.
P Ottewell


What are these?

Matthew T

Refer To Manual
Track Rod End
Round Wheel Arch

Hi Matt pleased I was right about the spitting back being carburettor being made weak for the reasons others described, very rarely ignition related LOL.

Now then the wire colours

PG I assume you mean purple with green trace?

Purple wires have never been used for blinkers or such so not sure what you have discovered under the dash?

In fact I rather fancy Purple with green trace may only have been used on later cars and for some lighting circuits?
Robert (Bob) Midget Turbo

I think for Matthew who knew he had a Driver's Handbook yet never consulted it I should have put


Read The f***ing Manual

(but it's not a manual as such)

whilst all around guessed and assumed (including me at the start) the correct answer laid waiting to be found in the relevant Driver's Hanbook

Workshop Manuals for repairs but Driver's Handbook for prevention

yes Pete the DH was mentioned in the very first reply to the thread

ETA: Bob refer back to my last to post there's a wild idea see what you think bearing in mind the PO has messed with a lot of wires
Nigel Atkins

I guess if we all RTFM then all problems would be soved easily mate and there would be no need for this website?

How strange that is not the case???

Perhaps the manual is not quite the golden fleece you assume it to be Nige!
Robert (Bob) Midget Turbo

these are very good, 11" x 17" laminated coloured wiring diagram

in fact now they do them for Home market cars I think I'll order one - save my poor eyes

I had one for my GT6 and it was very good but from a US perspective

if the information is available, very accurate and cheap to get why ignore it

anyway what about my wild idea about the purple wiring to the unit (or switch, I've forgotten)
Nigel Atkins

Until I looked at the relevant Driver's Handbook all were guessing about the piping (including me)

by finding a page out of the relevant Driver's Handbook on the internet and posting it here we then all had the accurate answer

by looking at a PDF of the wiring diagram in the relevant Driver's Handbook and the picture of the fusebox I could tell Mathew what the purple wires are usually used for

if the quality of the PDF had been better such as the paper printed quality then I could have given even more information on it

why guess at an answer when an accurate answer is available

for potential and new (and a lot of long standing) owners the Driver's Handbook provides a tremendous amount of necessary information

it is not a repair manual but can be used to effect repairs and if it's read and used for the servicing information, detail and schedule it can help to reduce and prevent many problems

it's not a cure all or endless font of knowledge but for only £8 you can't buy a better tool or make a better investment for your car

. . . and it's not a manual it's a Handbook :)
Nigel Atkins

This thread was discussed between 02/02/2012 and 07/02/2012

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG Midget and Sprite Technical BBS is active now.