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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - newbee needing info
hya purchaced my very first midget yeserday and im absalutley buzzin, its a 1978 big bumper, but converted to non bumper. few things iv not got my head around yet so after a bit of info. please exuse if they are stupid questions, im just being caucious before i start messing around with it. 1, the boke who i got it off didnt have it for long and doesnt no if it runs on unleaded or 4 star, is there any way of finding out ? 2, do they have dash board lights, (rev counter speedo ect) as i dont have any when turn lights on 3,there is a black bung in one of the holes in the air box/cleaner, is this needed or will it restrict airflow 4, the clutch pedal bites rite at the botom and is like the slack needs taking up in the cable or are they hydrolic, as pulling of is a struggle some times as it bites too quick. cheers james |
m gibson |
James, hi, welcome to answer your questions first: 1) don't worry about leaded run it on 97/98/99 for now if you can but if not 95 - if you look thro' the Archives you'll get more info and opinions 2) I'm not good on RB cars but if they're like my CB there's a switch to put on the dash lights 3) need a photo of that to tell 4) it's hydraulic - unless it's juddering or difficult to get in gears get used to it for now certainly the first 3 questions are answered in the owners Handbook, like all potential, new and most long term owners you need a copy (ASAP) and you definately need to do a full and proper 36,000 miles service on your car I'd guess (don't know for sure but I'd risk a pint on it) here is my usual advice, I urge you to note it all and keep a copy My advice to new owners - Buy an owners Handbook as it tells you so much you need to know as to own, drive, service and maintain your car - http://www.mgocshop.co.uk/catalog/Online_Catalogue_Handbooks_5.html Always have the battery in good condition and all battery connections and leads clean, secure and protected, same for all electrical wiring and connections As soon as possible do a full and proper 36,000 miles service only miss out items that you have 100% proof have already been done very recently, including; g/box and back axle oils brake and clutch fluids coolant dissy cap, rotor arm and leads (buy good quality ones) - http://www.distributordoctor.com/rotor_arms.html fan belt For a coolant change drain the whole system - engine block, rad and heater matrix if you can get any of these out to give them a good shake at the same time as flushing and back flushing then all the better - the sequence is flush, back flush, flush, clean, flush, back flush and flush again until the water runs clear, refill with the correct coolant mixture but bear in mind in tap water isn’t always the best water to use Also change the rubber coolant hoses to silicone when you get the chance as new rubber ones tend to be poor quality now- http://www.classicsiliconehoses.com/ Be aware that brand new parts can sometimes be faulty, especially electrical bits (see just above) so don’t discount them when problem solving just because they are new, buy good quality parts Check the age of your tyres if they are 6 years old or more replace ASAP regardless of tread depth, this will improve the braking, steering, ride, handling and possibly noise and safety of the car greatly Use the car regularly - to get used to it, sort out any wrinkles and prevent the problems that occur with lack of use, and to enjoy it Every few weeks check your horn, wipers and all switches work and heater valve turns on and off (all no problem if you use the car regularly) Follow regular checks, servicing and maintenance as per owners Handbook Drive in all weathers, the Midget hood should be very watertight if fitted correctly and the heater is more than adequate, if working correctly, for the small cabin Do not do any cosmetic or improvement work for at least 12 months of regular use, unless you need to replace parts or components, as you may need to use the money elsewhere on the car Also very useful, you can get suppliers catalogues for free to get you started to see where things go but in my personal opinion they’re not as good as a paper copy like - http://www.mgocshop.co.uk/catalog/Online_Catalogue_Parts_Lists_3.html Cheers, enjoy your car |
Nigel Atkins |
The left hand rocker switch is for the panel lights. It should have a little picture of a speedo on it. The clutch may have a lot of wear in various pivots, which means you lose a lot of travel between pedal and slave cylinder. Alternatively, you may just have air in the system, or you may have a fairly new clutch, which will always take up much lower down than a worn out one. |
Dave O'Neill 2 |
panel light switch is in the same place then, I didn't know if it was different in the later models changing the clutch fluid as part of the service may resolve the pedal travel but as part of the service work you'll be inspecting all components including those of the clutch to see if further work needs to be done as part of changing the fluid 3, is still a mystery, photo if you can |
Nigel Atkins |
hya and thanks for the replys guys much apreciated. il try and get pics tomora, but its literaly just a rubber bung in one of the holes in the air box. i took it out and took it for a drive and it back fired a little so wondering if its to restrict the airflow and make it run a little richer. as when i took it out the back fireing mite of been lack of fuel to air mixture. whats the best way of tuning the engines, not as in speed wise just to make it run smoother. mixture settings ect cheers james |
m gibson |
sorry I've no idea about this bung, how clean and what's the condition of the air filters best engine tuning believe or not is regular full proper servicing and maintainence, all in the Handbook, you can't progress on to the next stages without it as you don't know the car's recent service and maintence history it's best to take a full balanced approach - do the lot, check the lot, take nothing for granted, the sooner you do it the quicker the car will be sweeter a properly serviced, thus tuned, engine will be smoother, more responsive and overall economical to run loads of threads on here on or internet on how to set the carbs up which most probably will help but is only part of the equation and you'll have to rest them as part of, and because, of the full service |
Nigel Atkins |
The only bung I can think of on the 1500 air filers is the really small bung that clips the fuel pipe onto as it travels around the filters to the carb? Im sure you dont mean this one though? |
C Carter |
This thread was discussed between 07/05/2011 and 19/05/2011
MG Midget and Sprite Technical index
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