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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - no spark
I don't have a spark at the plugs, changed points condenser,and rotor arm. I was wondering how do you test the coil , Dan |
d a hadaway |
You don't say what model the car is, but have you got an ignition supply to the coil + or sw terminal? If so, remove the HT lead from the centre of the dizzy cap, hold it about half an inch from a metal part of the engine, preferably with an insulated tool, and crank the engine. You should see a bright blue spark jump the gap. Best way of checking a coil if you have no HT spark is by trying another known good one. |
SR Smith 1 |
Did you have spark before you changed the points and condenser If so... most likely you have grounded the spring and its getting full time power and it cant break the power Or it could be a bad condensor right off the bat To check coil for fire use a differant plug wire and go from coil to spare park plug grounded to blockand see.kf it sparks... Make sure the key is on Prop |
Prop and the Blackhole Midget |
Im assuming its a 1275 |
Prop and the Blackhole Midget |
why did you change the condenser they last decades and new modern made condensers can p*ss poor quality modern made points and rotor arms can be p*ss poor too unless you bought them from the likes of the Distributor Doctor check gap on points and flick points open to see if they spark, if that's ok then check spak from coil lead, if that's ok check dissy cap, rotor arm, HT lead connects if still no joy I'd try putting the old condenser back in then if required the old rotor then if required the old points ETA: good one Prop I forgot that - detailed drawing in the Driver's Handbook (if 1275 model at least) |
Nigel Atkins |
I wouldnt be to hard on our new friend nigel, he probably wasnt aware that 2 out of 3 points and condensor sets fail right out of the box But that little fact probably hasnt been updated and revised in the drivers hand book has it....hahha |
Prop and the Blackhole Midget |
Hello D A I couldnt find the illistration nigel was referancing but here is a good short read from an earlier thread that explains the incorrectly installed points and condensor Dont pay attention to the vacume advance portion, that was a read herring non issue http://www2.mg-cars.org.uk/cgi-bin/gen5?runprog=mgbbs&mode=archiveth&archiveyear=97_2014.dat&access=&subject=97&subjectar=97&source=T&thread=201406212237034927 Prop |
Prop and the Blackhole Midget |
Prop, there's nothing in the Driver's Handbook to say changing the condenser is part of servicing ;) |
Nigel Atkins |
It sounds to me DA as a Man of Kent (or is that Kentish Man?) you are more than eligible to come along to Kent midget and Sprite Club and receive help and assistance at a local level! Coincidently we have a meeting this Sunday at 12 midday at the Angel in Addington, just outside West Malling. I'm sure there will be lots of offers of advice and assistance to resolve your current problem and the many others you are bound to encounter over the course of time. If you are not familiar with the organisation, have a look at http://www.masckent.org/ You will find contact information for Alan (local organiser) on the website. You will be made very welcome. |
Graeme W |
Sorry nigal I was just teasing at your expense Prop |
Prop and the Blackhole Midget |
Prop "just teasing at your expense" You have no chance of Nigel taking up your tease expense If YOU want the tease YOU have to slip the bucks into the girly's garter... Dan we always have to ask, "did you insulate the wire inside the points properly?" The wire must sit inside the insulating bush. It must not make contact with earth except via the contact breaker points. I expect it to be right but it's worth checking that the spring section is insulated from the baseplate. |
bill l |
Dan, sorry I didn't mean my post to you to be so terse it's just the way I write plus I have to rush a bit at the moment as my internet connection is gong up and down more than a whore's drawers on a Friday night the link Prop put up covers what Bill means or there's a good drawing of it in in the 1275 DH but if not that other checks and possibilities are listed - any luck with any of them yet? Prop, I was teasing you back, I know you was pulling my leg and don't mind at all |
Nigel Atkins |
Nigal, Your going to have to do better then that, you really hurt my feelings , and.my leg is incrediably sore :-( I guess dan solved the issue... it sorta feels like we got stood up for our date .... agian LoL. Best of luck to you dan Prop |
Prop and the Blackhole Midget |
Prop, we have a say here "no sense, no feeling" or in Propspeak " no seance, no feelings" I'm sure Dan will report back when he get a chance to do the work and report on it |
Nigel Atkins |
Going to report back on state of play? |
Graeme W |
To test the coil is simple and you should do the following As stated pull out the HT lead from the centre of the distributor cap and place it in a position that creates a small gap (say 5mm) to a metal part of the engine Now remove the connection that connects to the side of the distributor (normally white with a black tracer) and "flash this to earth with the ignition on. As you "flash" this wire on and off earth you should also get a spark at the ht lead. Just for info "flashing" this wire to earth is the same action as that of the points etc in the distributor so if this technique gives you a spark then chances are that the points have been incorrectly installed in the distributor The test discribed by Mr Smith (second post) is a good one but still utilises the points etc, thus any issues with them fails the test of the coil. Regards |
Bob Turbo Midget England |
Bob! Nice to know you're still around. |
Steve Clark |
Is it me or is Nigel developing a séance of Humor? |
Steven Devine |
Thanks BOB, Thats a great idea... im writing that one down, do you think this would also work on electronic ignition Long time no see, glad to see your still among us even if it is in spirit Prop |
Prop and the Blackhole Midget |
This thread was discussed between 20/07/2014 and 30/07/2014
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