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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Oil cooler fitment
After a recent track day at Silverstone I've decided I need an oil cooler. I have now obtained a 13 row rad and the necessary pipes plus thermostat. Has anyone got any tips regarding fitting. Obviously I know which pipe ends attach to what bit of engine etc (it's a 1275 engine) but was wondering: 1) what's the best location - I'm thinking behind the grill in front of the radiator 2) what's the best pipe run? There are two holes in the front splash guard that look about in the right place but how to avoid the distributor and plug leads? 3) does the oil rad need mounting on rubber bobbins (as suggested by my Merlin Motorsport catalogue) or can it be bolted directly to the body 4) does the thermostat need to be fixed to the bodywork or can it be self supporting? Any photos of such an installation would be a great help. Thanks Chris |
Chris Hasluck |
Factory fitted coolers were never rubber mounted. It was fitted in front of the rad on a metal bracket or brackets. The pipes go through two large grommets in the splash panel. I've never had a 'stat, so I can't advise on that. |
Dave O'Neill2 |
If a cross flow radiator there is a useful panel in the cowl below the radiator where an oil cooler can be fitted, just cut a suitable hole for the flow of air. I solidly mounted both oilstats I've used but I've seen many that have just left them supported by the hoses in the case of the push on type. BTW worth checking the oilstat inside as the first Mocal oen I bought had quite a bit of swarf inside, I guess the plastic caps were to stop it failing out ;). |
David Billington |
2 big tips... 1. Wash out the cooler and hoses before installing, for some reason there was loose metal inside the cooler 2. Use a good librial coating of anti seizure compound on the hose connection threads... otherwise once everything is tightened, its permenate I used the stainless steel hoses ...there life time and look great, I also ran them under the lip of the wing then crossed over to the block for there connection, that way they are out of the way, and it takes up alot of the extra length of the hoses...which are way longer then needed Instead of a thermostats... moss has a cover that just clips on over the top of the cooler to be used in winter time driving or you could use cardboard to do the same thing Prop |
Prop and the Blackhole Midget |
Good points all - thanks. What's the best way to wash out the pipes, rad and thermostat? Flush with petrol? |
Chris Hasluck |
paraffin or diesel are better for washing out - being a bit oily they pick up specks of foreign matter better. |
David Smith |
I used parafin aka K1 (kerosene)....poured it in and shook it vigerously for a few minutes Prop |
Prop and the Blackhole Midget |
Chris, Standard bracket is AHA8386 available from Moss etc. Fits into original captive nuts from memory - basically its a flat steel strip bracket, turned down at both ends, fits between the side cheeks behind grille, so oil rad base is approx at a level with base of grille height. R. |
richard boobier |
Richard is correct...but the mounting bracket its not lucas orginal, it will require some ball pen hammer persuasion and a whole lot of colorful metaphores before it slips in to be bolted in Prop |
Prop and the Blackhole Midget |
Prop, Not sure where you get Lucas from ???? The part No is an old BMC special tuning bracket and fitted correctly - think mine had a B.M.Heritage sticker on it. R. |
richard boobier |
Your correct... I dont recall the name from moss... but the bracket needed some encouragment to fit P |
Prop and the Blackhole Midget |
I have always seen the cooler mounted with the hoses on the top. Old oil stays in the cooler along with any swarf. I was thinking it would be better for the hoses to exit at the bottom. Has anybody ever mounted the cooler "upside down"? |
J Bubela |
Chris. Here are a couple of fotos of my installation. I bought the 'correct' bracket from MOSS to mount the cooler in front of the radiator and ran the pipes through the two sets of holes in the splash panel on the right hand side - don't forget to use the grommets (which are a bugger to fit).
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graeme jackson |
side view - not shown is the bracket that fixes to the wheel arch and wing channel to support the hoses midway. |
graeme jackson |
Thanks Graeme - very helpful photos and nice looking car as well. |
Chris Hasluck |
Has anyone who has fitted an oil cooler used the grommets on the front panel and splash guard (1275 midget)? I've just spent a couple of fruitless hours trying to thread my oil pipes through those grommets. I can fit the grommets into the body but then can't force the pipes through them. Or fit the grommets to the pipes but then can't force the grommets into the body. Dooooohhhhh. Would it be a sin not to fit grommets or is there an easy way to do this? Chris |
Chris Hasluck |
lots of soapy water, and some heat to soften things |
Norm Kerr |
I gave up and fitted mine thur the fresh air heater hole... the big round one as im not planing on using the heater anytime soon If I do, ill drill new bigger holes and new soft rubber grommets... But im not into originality Prop |
Prop and the Blackhole Midget |
I'd try warming grommets and pipes with something like an electric hair dryer then silicone spray or oil on the pipes forward of where you'll be handling them as you'll lose grip if you get the silicone anywhere on what you're handling perhaps also a lever or hydraulic action to pull the pipe through if you can set this up without risk of damage |
Nigel Atkins |
I cut a chamfer on the outer edge of the grommets- just on the side that would be pushed into the splash panel holes- then fitted the grommets to the pipes before threading them through. Loads of washng up liquid too. |
graeme jackson |
Hi Graeme I've done just that but have yet to see if I can finally get them to fit. Thanks to all the others who posted replies as well. Not sure why Nigel needs such a variety of lubricants (oh - missus!). Chris |
Chris Hasluck |
The grommets on my B have a split in them. It makes fitting a lot easier.
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Dave O'Neill2 |
a range of lubricants to cover a range of needs! another good idea from Dave, cut them to run them round the panel or to reduce their size if either is required |
Nigel Atkins |
Yippeeee. Got those pesky grommets fitted. I trimmed one side down so there was about 1/8th inch left and chamfered the edge slightly. That is enough lip on the trimmed side to keep them in place and with much poking and shoving they eventually went into place. Now to finish the rest of the oil cooler installation (you can see I take these things slowly!). |
Chris Hasluck |
Well got everything fitted up and started the engine to check for leaks etc. Everything looks fine so only time will tell what difference it makes on the road and track. What surprised me was how long it took to charge up the oil pipes and get some oil pressure. I turned the engine on the starter only (king lead disconnected) and I reckon it took at least 30 seconds to charge up to any pressure (that's about 5-6 goes at about 5-6 seconds each time). Filter was pre-loaded with oil and (of course) the thermo was closed so all that was required was to push oil up the new pipes and back to the filter head. Is that normal and I hope that's not likely to have caused any damage? |
Chris Hasluck |
It shouldn't have caused any damage. What I would worry about is the first time that the thermostat opens, as you will have empty pipes to the cooler and an empty cooler, unless you pre-filled it. |
Dave O'Neill2 |
Hi Dave I pre filled the cooler but there are pipes to fill there as well as you say. |
Chris Hasluck |
This thread was discussed between 01/04/2014 and 14/04/2014
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