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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Oil Cooler Hardware & Installation

Hello midgeteers:

Today, I came across a local advertisement for a used oil cooler kit from a 1979 MGB. A quick check of the MossMotors.com web site indicates that the part number for the 10 row cooler size for the MGB is the same as my 1972 Midget. Part number #235-915 and it appears to be stamped

Mike Pelone

And here is another photo...

Mike Pelone

Personally, I would never fit a used oil cooler, as you never know what's in it and you can never be sure that you've cleaned everything out of it.

When I blew up the engine on the racing Sprite, the cooler went straight in the bin.
Dave O'Neill 2

Major X 2, Dave O'Neill

Its like using another stranger mans used condom, you just dont know what your going to catch

That said, it looks very sharp almost new has it been installed

I notice its missing a thermostate or a winter time cooler cover

Something else to do is us a liberial amount of anti seizure compound (same stuff you put on spark plug threads) that will allow the connections to become separated at a later time without twisting the connections off of the hoses

The bracket that holds the cooler can be fidgitty to get installed

Prop
Prop and the Blackhole Midget

Thanks guys - All good suggestions...

I believe that I can easily flush out any goo and gunk from the smaller size (10 row) oil cooler with kerosene and my air hose set to low pressure. Possibly gravity can my friend also.

I have rebuilt several engines with bent crankshafts, spun main and rod bearings and/or bent connecting rods and histories of bad maintenance by previous owners.
The dis-assembly and rebuild always goes hand-in-hand with good work shop including the MG war cry of “clean, wipe, clean, wipe…”

If we over obsessed over metal filings inside any of the engine components – then nothing would ever get rebuilt.

However, I still would like to get some close up photos of the hose connections near the oil filter area.

Thanks for any assistance with the digital pics.

Mike
Buffalo, NY

Mike Pelone

Mike
If you plumb the cooler in the usual way you will want the pipes to have a right angle elbow on leaving the cooler (the pipes usually go out through a couple of holes on the extreme right near or through the splash shield). The pipes in the picture leave straight up and I think you would have to bend them very sharply or run out of clearance. Also I would recommend a thermostat else on cooler days you will never get the oil up to temperature.

I agree with Dave O's comment about avoiding a used cooler but - hey - that's up to you.

Chris
Chris Hasluck

Mike,

This is from an old parts book and is how mine is fitted, not sure what brackets etc are still available as I had problems locating on the Moss website.

Basically the flexible pipes replace the original steel pipe that goes from the oil filter housing to the engine block.
The cooler bracket is AHA8386 (item 3)and the 'P' bracket(13) that fixes the hoses to the inner wing is AHA8779.
Item 18 is just a folded strip of rubberised webbing wrapped around the hoses.

HTH.

R.

richard boobier

Chris:

Thanks for the tip about the proper angle fitting of both hoses where they attach to the oil cooler. We have a commercial truck repair garage down the street and they are known for fabricating custom hydraulic hoses. They should have no trouble replacing the hose ends with the correct angle.

The car is still in winter storage – but once I get it back into my garage – I will measure the required lengths – perhaps, there may be enough meat on these hoses to simply cut off then re-crimp the proper hose end with correct thread types. Any thoughts on using rubber versus stainless wrapped hoses? I am more interested in function over aesthetics.

Richard:

Thanks for the exploded parts page scan – that certainly adds to the installation details. I can fabricate the sheet metal mounting bracket based on actual measurements. Also, that funky hose bracket that probably mounts to the inner fender sheet metal should be easy to bend as required to contain the loop of the hoses.

Perhaps I will include some type of rubber lining (or wrap) to minimize any chafing of the hoses. Looks to be a decent Spring project...

Mike
Buffalo, NY
>>>>>>>>>>>
Mike Pelone

The stainless steel hoses are alot longer then the rubber, so hopefully your in good shape... I can try to post a pic of mine tomarrow

Prop
Prop and the Blackhole Midget

Mike
The mounting bracket is still available - I bought one last year for £12 new from an MG supplier. I don't think there is any need for the fancy bracket thing. Once those stainless pipes pass through the front valance and splash guard there is not a lot of movement left.
Chris Hasluck

Mike.
here are a couple of pics of my installation. In the first you can see the (unfitted) cooler bracket in the front valance trough. I bought this new from MGOC but I'm pretty sure MOSS also stock it.

graeme jackson

And the front view showing the oil cooler fitted.

graeme jackson

Graeme

What paint did you use to paint your cly head with

1st time I used powder coat, nice but it dosnt hold up under hardware very well, im using enamal with alot of hardner on this head and so far so good but looking a bit thin in places where oil /anti frezse has sat to long...easy to touch up

Prop
Prop and the Blackhole Midget

Engine enamel :-)
graeme jackson

Its not the spray can stuff is it?

Been there done that... wont do that agian, I looks great for about 6 months, then the heat and condensation takes its toll.

Prop
Prop and the Blackhole Midget

tin of paint and a brush Prop. prepped the head well beforehand - degreaser and a light sanding.
graeme jackson

This thread was discussed between 20/04/2015 and 23/04/2015

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

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