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MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Opinions on a Car

Gentlemen,

Once again I need your opinions on a car:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MG-midget-GREEN-28579-MILES-FROM-NEW-2-OWNERS-/130817234386?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item1e755095d2

Looks good, a good price and reasonable close!

Rylan
R Williams

Dont walk... RUN for it !!!

I have to say, i like this one... And the buy it now price is very resonable, the only neg is see is the 1098 instead of a 1275 but that easy to remedy


The steering wheel looks to be a moto lita or a tourist trophy from moss...
Just as a thought, the only thing id think this car might need would be to have the rubber parts of the suspension replaced, the rubber detoriates over time...beyound that, it looks clean and rust free

Id drop a dime and go have a looksy ... Take some cash with you, i dont think this will stay around long

Procrastinate at your own risk

Prop
Prop and the Blackhole Midget

Hi Ryan,

That is the same year and spec of my car that I bought in November and I know mine cost only £750 but that was the style I was looking for.

You would hope that for £3,000 it will be in better condition than mine. I would certainly go and check it out.

Good luck

James

J Paul

I have to say.... It might have been in dry storage, but i dont think this car has been sitting permenatly....this has some good upgrades like the air filters and the alt ...you wouldnt do those if your not driving it

Prop
Prop and the Blackhole Midget

Yes like Prop says definitely some work done.

I noticed that it has had the alternator conversion and the water temperature sensor has been relocated from the engine to the radiator. The heater matrix value has lost its tap head.

Some of the panel / sills gaps need to be checked out

But like it says, “NEEDS TLC,”

Good luck

James
J Paul

go have a look at this one. in my opinion is the one to buy. iv got the 1098cc, no prob at all.nice engine.got mot so cant be that bad. will need jobs done along the way but they all need that.

regards bob. good luck.
trebor

Hi Bob,

Did you see that I replied to your question about chassis plate?

If not here is mine again


J Paul

yes thank jp.
trebor

Blimey John, thought you had a picture of mine then.

Mine is 4,1** different (473** )

same style of course...
Bill1

could be new bonnet some time. no spear or visible holes.
trebor

It's the same story Rylan.

For 3 grand it looks like a good purchase, -- on the proviso that everything said is true.

You have to go and take a very good look to find out.

Then if it is true, and you can get past the vomit making conversation you'll have with the owner, "she this, and she that, and her this, and her that ---ughh makes me shudder ---- make sure you have the 3G in your pocket to pass over, and drive it home.

It looks like it needs at least one wire wheel straightened out though. No wonder it needs so much weight to balance it.




Lawrence Slater

At the risk of stating the blinking obvious - condition is everything. I have bought several cars from EBay, and to be fair, all have been fine, but then I have only bought from enthusiasts - who care. This item smells like a trade and is very light on the obvious Midget pitfalls - bodywork, chassis, sills gearbox etc all of which, if rotten, are time consuming and costly to get right.

It all depends on what you want to put in to it. Personally, I always go for the best I can afford, as the time and money spent restoring is never ever repaid unless you are very very lucky, and unless it is paid back in terms of knowlegde gained. For me, been there done that, so I tend to buy when others have done the hard work and incurred the cost for me.

But it now price is very high. The engine is frankly a slug, and never ever go by low resolution photos of bodywork. I cannot believe that it will require significant attention on brakes, clutch, engine, etc, all of which are do-able, but time consuming. Bodywork is the key for many. If that is rotten then for me, a no sale.

Ask some pertinent questions by all means and of course, the simplest answer is go and have a look - as much to understand the seller more than anything - and try and critize the car as much as you can to yourself, no rose-tinted specs please - then decide.

Mark O

This one looks good Rylan. It has a "buy now" price and a reserve which I imagine would be pretty close to the buy now. I think it's worth a closer look. I would speak nicely to Lawrence if I were you as I am sure you could pursuade him to come along as a second pair of eyes.
Graeme W

The first photo of the cockpit - it looks like a large flat piece of sheet steel has been welded in the footwell side behind the wing, a common place for them to rot here. Windscreen pillars are green in the A post so presume its had some spraying done without removing the screen
m fairclough

My thoughts from an ex motor trader {trucks not cars]
I am just cynical in my old age...NEVER buy anything that need a bit of tlc or just a few little jobs for mot.That is motor trade talk for needs lots of work. You have to ask yourself, why dont they just do these 'small jobs' and sell a perefct car for lots more money. It may be in this case it is not a dealer,
then you pays your money and takes your chance
rgds tony boyle
a boyle

It doesn't look too bad - from what I can see on my Blackberry.
I would take a large pinch of salt with the "28000 miles from new" claim, unless they have plenty of evidence to substantiate - not just 15 MoTs, which will only go back to the late '80s at best, when the car was already over 20 years old.
Dave O'Neill2

Seller does have the "sound" of a trader if you look at the phrases. "She sits proud on a set of wire wheels". Nothing in the past history suggests regular selling (of anything!)on Ebay.But the ad doesn't suggest the current seller is actually the registered owner. If his name is Bernie, I would be very wary!
Still worth a look, if only for the experience. Trouble with Ebay is the lack of opportunity to haggle.
Graeme W

I can assure Mark O that my 1098 is no slug. A well sorted 1098 can be very lively indeed.

Graeme. Which Bernie would you be talking about?

Thanks. Bernie!
b higginson

Hi Rylan, was it once red?
In the drivers footwell around the bung to the clutch slave looks red to me?
Drivers door/screen seal missing too.

Regards, Tony
Tony G

He has 9 feedback as a seller, all for cars, so that does suggest a trader.

However with the exception of one, they were all +ve.

It's all meaningless though. You have to see the car up close and decide for yourself.
Lawrence Slater

N/s trim appears to rise up towards the front (camera trick?).

Trim above and to rear of o/s/f wheel seems to have dodgy paint around it (rust bubbling?)

IIRC vertical flow rads had the temp sender in them.

When I first bought my 1275 it seems slower than my 1098... then I realised the 1098 seemed a little 'cammy' by comparison, with smaller displacement and same cam profile - so it falt faster than it was, but certainly not a sluggard.

I can't imagine buying a car without having a close look and test-drive. Things like worn suspension can be fixed... but you're adding £100s to the cost; and a body that's tatty underneath can easily add £1K and much more.

A
Anthony Cutler

Having seen larger photos, I'm not keen on the panel fit on the O/S.

Bernie, I believe Graeme was referring to the 'Bernie' on the classic car prog on TV.

With regards to the seller's feedback, here's the negative one that Lawrence mentioned...


Dave O'Neill2

Thanks Dave, it was indeed THAT Bernie I was referring to not Bernie (Higginson) or any other Bernie associated with this site! Appologies to all Bernies :-)

Not my day today! Missed that feedback on a few cars the ebay seller sold. That makes more sense considering the tone of the ad!

All starting to look a bit dubious.

What you need Rylan is a MASC owner or equivalent who has reached the point where getting in and out is getting a problem and has decided to sell and buy a zimmer frame. You MIGHT just get something more genuine that way. You could even part-ex a spare zimmer if you can get hold of one.


Graeme W

I’m probably wrong but I get the impression this car has had at least the start of recommisioning if not fully carried through but I think this was done by someone other than the seller

possibly the photos are done in a way to show an honest representation of the car or perhaps the seller doesn’t know or care or it is to their standards

a few small bits suggest the ‘needs TLC’ which is fine but of course it’s if there is more than this required

below are quick notes from a quick look at the small photos in the order they appear:

driver’s door fit
wire wheels which can bring extra problems

trim panel missing in passenger’s footwell
overspray or paint dust on door retainer strap

different HT leads
dissy vacuum lead (?)
top of heater tap missing
new cooling hoses (possibly the ones that craze after 9 months)
new wiper motor(?)

dinks in wheel (are they shown on purpose?)
tyres look older pattern so may be very old and need replacing regardless of tread
bumper too close to body?

fit of accelerator cable and breather hose (again shown on purpose or missed?)

above off-side rear wheel arch(?)
rust at bottom of rear wing behind wheel

new door lock plate
door seal cut too short
red and green overspray or paint dust on footwell trim
hood fitment and hole in bodywork

unfortunately it can be very difficult to know from photos and descriptions if the car and seller are genuine and cars like these really need a visit and test drive to find out – I take it that ‘dad’ is resolute about not travelling too far to look at a car which is a restricting factor but I see why he’s taken that stance
Nigel Atkins

Guys

It would appear that the car is not as good as first thought :(

My dad is not keen on traveling a large distance, which is the limiting factor.

The one I really really like is this one:

http://www.classiccarsforsale.co.uk/classic-car-page/184895/1966-mg-midget-1098cc/

Even my dad likes it, I am slowly trying to convince him to go up there and look!

Rylan
R Williams

I quite liked the green one till I saw the plate in the footwell pointed out by M Faircough. Not so sure now. Also the nearside rear quarter looks a bit strange where it meets the rear light at the chrome strip. Probably poorly replaced. Interesting to me as both those areas I will have to do on mine - hopefully better than that!
John Payne

On the green one the cills have had work , the door gaps do not look good and a repair plate in passenger footwell etc.

The black one looks well worth having a look at - it looks the part - could do with underneath pics and under bonnet. If you rang them perhaps they could supply pics before you travel.

R.
richard boobier

The black one looks nice.

And it finally is an add with pics that tell the tale!
Good side shots showing shut lines.
Just missing an under bonnet shot.

I just don't like chrome wires.
It should have painted ones but you could try and find someone for a swop.

And sorry to be blunt but you father needs a good kick in the @rse and get moving!!
For a nice car you need to travel
Onno K

Under bonnet shot 1


R Williams

Under bonnet shot 2


R Williams

Under bonnet shot 3


R Williams

I too found your comment odd that your father dosnt want to travel far....what is far in miles by his defination???

If your looking for a nice good quality honda accord thats 3 years old yeah you can find that with in 10 miles... But we are talking a 40 year old car, last time i looked the fruit tree that grows mg midgets got cut down aa few years back.... You definatly need to travel other wise take yourcar money to the river boat for gambling cause its a time waste gamble to only buy with in a 6 block radious of your house

Prop
Prop and the Blackhole Midget

the black car -

what you can see looks good (in the small photos I can see) with just a couple of unfinished touches

the packaway hood, (especially chrome) wire wheels and black paint are not the most practical for frequent use

1990 restoration so 22 years ago

the lack of engine and boot photos need investigation

the price makes me curious as to me and I could well be wrong the car looks worth more yet when it was advertised at a higher price it didn't sell, perhaps that'll be the purchaser's gain and loss to those that ignored it or there's other reasons its not sold

the trouble free motoring bit is ambitious trade speak for any British classic especially in the early months/years of ownership

the trader seems to advertise Spridgets around these prices so would be well worth a visit to establish the quality of the cars and seller for this car and perhaps others they have or get in the future

http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/user/ccts3047
Nigel Atkins

Rylan,
obviously I missed your photos of engine bay - looks very good with again only a few minor bits of unfinished touches

what the overlong red battery cable going to

Prop,
his dad doesn't want Rylan to get (another) very old car that will be unreliable and swallow money and life energy, he's protecting Rylan and also putting limits on what he is prepared to do - perhaps he's throwing in an obstacle and/or perhaps he's getting Rylan to do more and better research on potential cars - or perhaps he's not stopping Rylan but also not encouraging him because of the last experience of Midget ownership, life experience tempering over enthusiasm
Nigel Atkins

The black car certainly does look the part.

Under bonnet shots raise a couple of questions...

What is that PCV valve doing connected to the air filter?

The top radiator hose seems to only just be winning the battle to stay attached to the Mini thermostat housing.

The extra long battery cable seems to be attached to a cut-off switch.
Dave O'Neill2

Nice car.
Get over there and check it out top to bottom and drive it.
If it is good the little niggles are the fun ones to work out.

I love the MKII top but had my doubts about the older midgets before I bought my "66 (I actually wanted a "68/9).
But now I am only sorry that I did not buy an older car because they are just that little bit more beautiful.
Onno K

>>What is that PCV valve doing connected to the air filter?<< I wondered about that but I'm not sure on the earlier cars set up

>>The top radiator hose seems to only just be winning the battle to stay attached to the Mini thermostat housing.<< yes but unless the fitting on the rad is different to mine I thought there was spare hose that end

>>The extra long battery cable seems to be attached to a cut-off switch.<< that what I think but wasn't sure of the spacing between the terminals on the photo size I see

another thing I've just noticed - the exhaust manifold plates glowing red ? (firing order/timimg/other issues)
Nigel Atkins

another thing I've just noticed - the exhaust manifold plates glowing red ? (firing order/timimg/other issues).......

.... or simply painted red?
Andrew McGee

I don't know look at the photo from the other side and the colour of the first branch - seems an odd thing to leave in a sales photo but sometimes the seller doesn't notice or realise what's in the photo and what it might mean

just because a dealer sellers Spridgets doesn't necessarily mean they know that much about the cars - or have even looked at a Driver's Handbook :)
Nigel Atkins

I wonder if the replacement engine is in fact a 1275.
It certainly looks that way judging by the flat deck of the cylionder head in front of the thermostat housing.This may also account for the PCV being connencted directly to the filter housing instead of the oil sep cannister which was mounted off the tappet chamber cover.
M J Chapman

The green car - I think it has the wrong door striker plate (late and not early) which means wrong door lock to go with it and a modified door to take the later parts.
Daniel1312

Hi Again

Just a question.

Are any of you near to the black spridget posted above? or know someone who is?

If so I would be grateful if someone could look at it in the flesh on my behalf and give an opinion.

Rylan
R Williams

Rylan,
have you got a hi-res photo of the under bonnet photos as I think the manifold is glowing rather than painted plus could compare engine bay lay out with photos in Terry Horler's and others books

the knit-one-pearl-one HT leads would take seconds to put right before taking the photo

I thought someone here would comment on the Mini type heater valve and lack of cable after previous discussions
Nigel Atkins

Rylan

I was up and down the M6 three days last week, so I could have looked at it, but I'm in Cambridge and South Wales this week, unfortunately.

Well spotted MJ, the orientation of the thermostat housing would suggest 1275.
Dave O'Neill2

The black one should look better than the earlier green one - it's a chunk more money! Have a look at one priced at £5500 and it should look better again. It really comes down to whether spending the difference on the original car would bring it up to a better standard than this one? From all the comments I suspect not!
After all, £1200 doesn't really go all that far on refurb, even if you do the work yourself.
It all comes down to deciding on a budget and then concluding whether that will get the car you want or whether you need to delay a while to build up funds.
Worthwhile going to have a look - it's only the other side of Birmingham so not too far or costly compared with spending £4grand+
Graeme W

DVLA has it as a 1098

PO may have "forgotten" to mention it of course and this reseller would be going by the reg doc.
Graeme W

it says in the ad that it was replaced with a bmc 1098cc.could have different head.? might be paperwork to support this.
trebor

Rylan

Would not touch any car with a ten foot pole sold by a trader.

Personally I would only buy from a genuine enthusiast.

Follow the latter and (generally) you cannot go far wrong. Plenty about for fair money. Have patience!


M

Mark O

Hi Mark

I agree with your point, however I have not yet seen a CB car that is for sale from an enthusiast :(

R
R Williams

Hi Rylan,

Have you carefully thought about what you want from buying one of these cars?

To own a restored car that took someone else hours of hard work to complete so you can drive it on sunny days with the top down with minimal but regular maintenance?

To completely restore yourself with the aim to make some money or keep your pride and joy forever more?

No matter whether you are at one end or the other, or even somewhere in between, you should also have an idea about your budget and how that will affect your decision.

Lets say you have £5,000. You could spend £750 on a total rust bucket but end up spending £4,250 (and the rest!) on the restoration, but you have the sense of satisfaction of doing something you will remember for the rest of you life.

Or you could try to find a car that someone else has done a whole variety of tweaks, modifications and short cuts that may still cost you in the long run.

You maybe lucky and find a true little gem carefully restored to its original specification which will certainly cost you more than £5,000. But why would someone else sell their pride and joy, as it probably cost them over £10,000 to get there?

The decision about buying this type of classic car should be not about what the condition or what price it is, but about how you plan to live with the car based on your circumstances alone.

Try to work out what this purchase means for you and then stick to it.

Sorry if I am preaching, but there are so many opinions on this forum it can be difficult to know what is the best advice. Not saying mine is best but this is what I did before I started and it gives me a sense of security that I am doing exactly what I set out to do.

Good luck

James
J Paul

I think you should stop trying to find a car that has nothing wrong with it. Instead look for a car that has a lot wrong with it, -- as long as it can be fixed --- , and as long as you can afford to fix it, and as long as you get it cheap enough.

Use the adverts as no more than an intruduction to the seller. They have little more use than as a fliter for stolen or ringed cars.

Don't rule out traders, as most of these cars were at one time in their lives sold throught the trade, unless you buy a 1 or 2 owner car.

The midget I just bought came from a trader, and his name is not on the V5 because he completed section 9.

There is only one way to buy a car, you have to go and see it. If in the process you spend 200 quid in travelling expenses, that's just life.

Remember the old saying, you have to kiss a lot for dogs before you marry your wife. :)



Lawrence Slater

Hi Ryan

I can't help adding my few pence worth.

Like others have said, the black car does look nice - bodywork, wheels, chrome and interior especially.

Engine may have a few oddities/queries but that's to be expected of a 40+ year old car that's had a replacement engine. If I remember correctly from when I had a 1098 midget back in the 1960s, I'm sure it had a PCV, even though not shown in the current Moss catalogue. And 1098's did breathe into the air cleaner can.

Give it a run and it should be lively with precise steering, firm ride and no undue noises from gearbox and diff.

If all that's up to snuff then have a really good look (poke) around underneath because that's where problems are less easy to deal with and can be a money pit (aka Black Hole!).

It's certainly work a look and as it's top price, that may be negotiable.
Peter B

James,
it's only preaching when I do it :)

I agree with much of what you've put

Rylan does have a a budget, type and condition of car in mind (which won't be a car without faults) and not so good previous ownership experience, what he needs now is experience and test drives of suitable cars

owners sell to traders because it is easier for various reasons (one is which is having to deal with buyers) a £10k restoration sells for £5k if that what buyers think it's worth it happens many times, what has been spent on a car doesn't fully reflect in its sales value

Am I the only one to think the exhaust manifold might be glowing on the black car?
Nigel Atkins

Nigel,

After you pointed it out, I thought they looked like they were glowing red. But (I think in the second photo) would the camera shutter be fast enough that the generator fan would look like it was not moving? Or, if it is glowing, was it so hot that after shutting down and getting ready to take the pic, it was still glowing?

Charley
C R Huff

It looks like a tubular manifold which has been painted. The paint has burnt off the pipe, but not off the flange.

Getting back to the PCV valve, all it's doing is connecting the air filter to the inlet manifold. There's no crankcase ventilation.
Dave O'Neill2

Dave,

I bet your right about the manifold. It does seem that the flange at that point would be cooler than downstream since it has the head right there to act as a heat sink.

Yup, I was puzzled by that PCV line as well. It certainly has nothing to do with the crankcase.

Not a bad looking car though, as best as the pics tell. I can't speak to values over there.

Charley
C R Huff

sorry, I thought of paint, just that on my monitor at the size and quality of photos and my eyes in shot 1 the red is all across the top of the flange except a small greyish patch toward the middle of the top but in shot 2 the front of the top edge at least appears grey – but probably an optical illusion and camera angles caused by my poor brain (yes I did think the engine had been turned off though)

hands up I totally missed the unusual breather arrangements – noticed something then got distracted, probably straining my brain to remember or spell a simple word

what was that? . . . I just saw something out of the corner of my eye . . . now was I going upstairs or downstairs?






. . . and I’m in a bungalow
Nigel Atkins

Here's a nice one:

http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C342809#

J Paul

Now that one is definitely better! And at a realistic price too. :-)
Guy W

And another:

http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201212034492963/sort/default/usedcars/model/midget/make/mg/page/1?logcode=p
J Paul

The first one which J Paul highlighted looks very nice but the seller says it's very original. At the quickest of glances, I can see that the steering wheel isn't original, neither is the colour of the engine, nor the the roll bar. Still it does look nice though.
frogeye Gary

I wouldn't cane the bloke for his interpretation of original. If(IF) the car's as good as it looks, originality in every respect doesn't matter much at all.

The 2nd one looks very nice too, but I hate ad's where you have to telephone to get any details. Barely any description and no idea where it is.

Also, the colour in the 2nd one, the M reg one, could be wrong. I don't think Old english White was a colour for that year, and it looks like that to me, although it could just be my screen and those pictures. Not that it matters, if the car is decent though.

Just out of interest, when did it become compulsory to have yellow and white reflective number plates?
Lawrence Slater

jan 73 i believe,
trebor

This one of mine is for sale. New Heritage shell. Mildly tuned 1275 engine, fully reconditioned and balanced. All new suspension and brakes including pipework. All new interior. MGF seats. New soft top. Works hard top. Revolution alloys. Stainless straight-through exhaust. Only done 1146 miles since the rebuild.



Mike Howlett

Can Rylan afford it Mike? What's the price?
Lawrence Slater

It is expensive of course - it is virtually a brand new car. But it's not as costly as the ones Mike Auther sells and it has been lovingly built by an enthusiast - me! With the amount of Dinitrol products contained in the hollow sections it shouldn't rust for many years. Rylan should email me if he's seriously interested on mikehpersonal AT gmail DOT com.
Mike Howlett

'All vehicles manufactured after 1.1.1973 must display number plates of reflex-reflecting material, white at the front and yellow at the rear, the characters must be black.
- In addition - the characters on number plates purchased from 1.9.2001 will need to conform to the following specifications . . . '
Nigel Atkins

Thanks Nigel.

In that case the 2nd of the two white ones below, should qualify for at least a 20 quid discount then to swap the plates for the ones nigel describes.
Lawrence Slater

no ask if they have the originals as strictly speaking the new plates should comply to the post 2001 style of lettering

as I put on the other thread newly made correct period style plates would be for off-road/show use only
Nigel Atkins

rylan.
another one come up right near you in maidstone. could be worth a look and make offer seeing as some parts not original.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MG-MIDGET-BRG-WITH-PAINTED-WIRE-WHEELS-/221167287276?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item337e98fbec

regards bob.
trebor

Worth a careful look, I would say.
Dave O'Neill2

I know the seller, it's the guy I bought my Mk1 from a few weeks ago. I can't comment on this car but he's a decent, honest chap and I'd be happy to deal with him again.

Got to be worth a look being so close to you Rylan.
John Payne

Same ol' same ol'.

Can't tell until you look at it. But I see some originality in it that appeals to me.

Rylan?
Lawrence Slater

and another, or have we give up now.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1969-MG-MIDGET-austin-sprite-/110991484049?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item19d79ba491
trebor

that one was considered in the previous thread
Nigel Atkins

where ? this only come on ebay last night.
trebor

I think it's been relisted. I remember that one being discussed too.

Wassup Rylan? Have you bought one? Put us out of our mayhem, please. :)
Lawrence Slater

Hi Guys

I am still looking, the blue car above was discussed in a previous thread.

The green one in maidstone I am viewing on Sunday with my dad and Alan as a impartial adviser :)

I shall keep you updated but it looks good so far!

Rylan
R Williams

be interesting to see what that red box exactly is

if the cassette works it'll probably need the head cleaning (and regularly with cheap and prerecorded cassettes) I wonder if the dynamo will be able to cope with it well in winter, good battery, as always, required

good luck, with Alan there and the seller being OK it should be a good experience

personally once I'd got the car fully sorted I'd be swapping the wires for knock-on minilite copies to save cleaning them and sorting out the spokes
Nigel Atkins

the cassette would be got rid of and replaced with a 1500 radio console I have which has 2 speakers mounted in it and a narrow depth radio.

I would be tempted to swap the wires too, its all irrelevant at the moment until I have seen it. The seats would definitely be swapped
R Williams

Nigel
The red box is a Sparkrite transistorised ignition that works in conjunction with the ignition points system. In their day they did help the ignition.
Red was negative earth and could be bought through many outlets. Blue was an assemble it yourself positive earth system. Sparkrite also used to make car alarms. I believe they are part of the Stadium Group now. The red & blue units had an on off switch so were an early immobiliser as well.
Alan.
Alan Anstead

Rylan,
two speakers! two mono or I expect it's one of those new fangled FM stereo radios

I'd keep the seats if you can get in and out of the car with them as the extra support they give can be good - as always I wouldn't change anything unless I had to until after at least 12 months of frequent driving

Alan,
thanks for info, I've heard of Sparkrite but didn't know they done combined units but my intuition must be getting better as I wondered if it was an immobiliser too with all those different coloured wires

for me that unit would have to go too with the CB points, and old dissy, I'm a confirmed fully electronic dissy fan - but not until after at least 12 months frequent use of the car of course

funnily enough I was just looking at my 1970 edition of the AA book of the Car and it shows how to fit a simple immobiliser switch among its hundreds of pages and colour photos and diagrams, great book for classic car owners
Nigel Atkins

Nigel,

I would not be quite so quick to dismiss the Sparkrite unit.

I had one on a 'B' and it worked very well - it uses the c/breaker as a switch - so points condition is not important as no real current is present.
It could also be used as conventional C/B by using the switch which also had the immobilizer function - if the unit failed you already had a back up !

It also had a light built in to time the 'points opening' for timing set up.

I still seem to have the instruction book if anybody needs a copy.

R.
richard boobier

And, I'm still sticking up for points. Why do people have the impression these days that points are so inferior. They aren't. Sure with computer management in modern cars electronic is essential, but on these old codgers, it's not.

In a tuned Spridget engine, that you squeeze every ounce of power from on a RR session for the track, I guess you have an advantage with fully electronic. But on a road engine, I doubt it.

As for reliability, I can't remember the last time I had a breakdown due to points. Add to that, I've never had a breakdown, in any car, that was due to points that I couldn't fix in 5 mins at the side of the road. Do that with fully electronic, unless you carry a spare electronic distributor.

Recently on here, there have been a few threads where the poster(s) had trouble with electronic ignition, and gone back to points to eliminate/isolate the fault.

So don't be too quick to dump points ignition. It works, and is way cheaper than dumping it in favour of fully electronic.

Lawrence Slater

Richard,
fair point about the Sparkrite if it doesn't us the points as such but I've had points close down during driving so would that also stop the Sprarkrite(?) - also it still uses the possibly sloppy, worn unserviced dissy so I'd still be seeing how far it would fly with the aid of my boot

Lawrence,
I do remember being let down by points very well, really annoyed me as they hadn't been fitted long - and a couple of times on tours cars I've seen cars pulled over with the owners roadside fiddling with points, (double(?) on a Lotus Elan Sprint) projecting the stereotype of the unreliable classic car

most times the faults with electronic ignitions seem to be installation faults, I've used different electronic igniters in place of points on a few classics and they have improved tickover and had the car running better, all on road cars used throughout the year - but swapping out the points and old dissy for a fully electronic dissy has bought the biggest improvements
Nigel Atkins

I regularly tour abroad taking others with me and also as a club area rep I get to hear peoples woes.
The main problems are the quality of modern ignition components. Modern rotors have a high graphite content making them better conductors than of old. The rivet attaching the brass is often longer so these two factors contribute to shorting hence the development of the red rotor.
Condensor quality is questionable leading Swiftune to make a better quality item but at a price.
You & I Lawrence can cope with a break down but others cannot. When touring abroad I recommend my tourers to fit an Aldon / Petronix unit with a red rotor. That is not to say that other combnations are no good it is just that what over time I have found to be a reliable combo. Indeed elctronics do fail but when on tour, as I usually end up as crew chief, bottle washer et all, I carry a Dissy all set with good parts for a straight swop to reduce delays.
Alan
Alan Anstead

I see you are involved as Advisor on Sunday, Alan.
Graeme W

hi all,
i know we are moving a bit off subject here but as there is a mention of elec ign id like to hear your views on a prob i have. 65 midge neg earth.when i got my car a load of it was in bits. i got a gold coil and silver one with it without any labels on.fitted one of those accuspark units on which i also had on my mgb which was on there for 4 yrs then sold car.unit lasted 8mls and packed up. phoned company and they said have not had problem before and asked what coil i had.told them at the time had the gold one on which they said is high voltage which is likely the cause. sent me new unit and i fitted with the silver coil which they said should be ok. lasted.12 mls. have now put points and condenser back and in the last 3mths have had to change condenser once. any views would be appreciated. i am a bit reluctant to spend out on an expensive unit in case i get same problems.
regards bob.
trebor

I'm no mechanical genius either. If you can change a wheel when your tyre is flat, you can change a set of points. If you can't you can soon learn. It's basic meccano type of stuff. 1 screw, 1 nut.

Nigel, if you've had a set of points let you down, either they weren't fitted properly or there was something wrong with them. It takes literally tens of thousands of miles of use, for a set of points to wear to the extent that they can't be used any more. I can't remember the last time I bought or fitted a new set. How is it then that my car doesn't break down? And I'll repeat. I'm no mechanical genius.

Obviously if you have crappily made points there's a problem, but there are still plenty of decent ones for sale. Same applies to rotor arms too. Obviously crap materials can't be relied on. But as you said Alan, the red rotor takes care of that. And as a matter of fact, I don't change my rotor arm much either. I'm still using an original old one.

Same too with the distributor cap. I'll post a picture of a cap later that proves just how bad they can be and still let you drive the car.

I'm not knocking solid state electronics per se, just saying it isn't neccessary for reliability and low maintenance, and that the original points set-up is very easy to fit and service.

Trevor, don't know what the problem with your acuspark is, but if you had to change the condensor that soon after fitting points, then you had a duff condensor. Those too should last yonks and yonks.
Lawrence Slater

A sign of the times we live in but the ability to change a spare gives you at least a three spanner rating.
Bob the Aldon / Pertronx set up works for me on both my cars. NOS is probably the way to go if staying with points & condensor.
Alan
www.masckent.org
Alan Anstead

We I shoved a pertronix/Ignitor in my dissy quite early in my ownership purely because it got rid of one more fiddly job. I've got a spare baseplate with the old known good points and condensor sitting in the boot waiting for the electronic gizmo to go wrong. For much the same reason I changed the dissy cap, rotor arm and plug leads so I've got known good, if slightly second hand spares in the boot. If it ain't broke, take it off and keep it as a spare!
Matt1275Bucks

The issue with electronics comes down to very much black and white - either it works...... or it doesn't. No halfway stage, no side of the road repair.
Mechanical points however might deteriorate but keep on working to a certain extent and that's usually enough to get you home (unless the spring breaks!).

Matt: I agree with your ideas. I have so much "just in case" in my boot, although the most useful is a wire coat hanger. I do like to hang up my coat if the car breaks down.
Graeme W

Well we won't need to worry much longer, world ends soon. Do mayans drive Spridgets? -- crosstalk.
Lawrence Slater

Instected the green car, at Maidstone, this morning with Rylan but it was not for him. Another member is checking out the aforementioned black car but the search for a suitable car is still alive.
Alan Anstead

Bummer.

Never mind Rylan keep looking. Maybe you could lower your sights, and accept one that needs a little more work. You'll have a lifetime to do it. :)
Lawrence Slater

Still Rylan, on the plus side..... we can keep this thread going!
Graeme W

anyone seen this one. looks nice for the money.
http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C353417
trebor

Car actually looks better than the description suggests. Good gloss on the paintwork. Probably going to be a bit far north although I suspect the price reflects that too (seems good value if it is what is appears). That's without allowing for the spare door handles. Could be useful: "Oh no, 50 miles from home and the door won't open. But I don't care, I have a spare in the boot!"
Graeme W

nice little train journey to manchester and nice drive back. might even be interested myself, wouldnt mind another one.
trebor

Hi guys

I have had feedback on the black midget in Wheaton Ashton.

It does not seem to be in as good condition as the pictures and price suggests.

the search goes on

Rylan
R Williams

Perhaps you're on the train to Cheshire then? :)
Greg H

I am not on the train to Cheshire, but i am still looking.

I did see this one advertised on the MGOC classifieds for £3999, so the price has been dropped:

http://www.classiccarsforsale.co.uk/classic-car-page/174672/1971-mg-midget/

I am hoping that more will become available now in the new year.

Rylan
R Williams

Obviously not an engine-bay polisher!
Graeme W

Your right there Graeme!

Looking again my gut feeling is not so good.

I could get this one in Berkshire for £4500, it looks to be better value!:

http://classifieds.pistonheads.com/classifieds/used-cars/mg/midget/mg-midget-1973-round-wheel-arches/994494

I am waiting to hear back from the berkshire rep with regards to a couple of 1966 cars that are for sale at a garage so fingers crossed!
R Williams

From the photos, I prefer the look of the blue one. Having said that, I don't think I'd want to pay more then £3000 for it...assuming it's solid.
Dave O'Neill2

Dave,
has the red one a different head?
Nigel Atkins

This thread was discussed between 10/12/2012 and 03/01/2013

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

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