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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Petrol proof paint

Just removed my stainless steel fuel tank from the Sprite, to check sender and reseal it. I knew that when full the sender had been leaking a little. Having dropped the tank I find that the paint around the weepy area has bubbled up and is coming off in sheets. I had used black hammerite which I am sure has been ok with fuel before so maybe the formulation has changed again? Unless its the ethanol in the new petrol? It has clearly reacted and quite badly.

Anyway what suggestions for a basic brush applied black paint for re-doing the tank with?
GuyW

This resists ethanol and is primarily for coating fuel tanks but could be used in the area next to the tank?

https://www.rust.co.uk/product/tank-guard-epoxy-coating-19

Aside from taking precautions using this stuff, it should be stored upside down in an area where the temperature does not drop below 20C! Looks like it is designed to be a single use application.
Jeremy MkIII

Thanks Jeremy. Looks the business, but also a bit too finicky for me. That storage temperature is warmer than we keep our house - it would have to have a special warm cabinet all to itself!

I have found why the fuel gauge wasn't going above half full. These early gauges have 2 contact wiper arms that travel across the rheostat coil. The "rubber" gasket for the lid had swollen with fuel and bulged down to get in the way of the contact arms, preventing them for travelling over their full range.
GuyW

Hammerite is ok for spillages etc but prolonged exposure attacks it. Well that’s what I found in my boot. Lots of small spillages over the years with no effect but when my plastic petrol can leaked and was sat there a few days it wrinkled the 10 year old hammerite.

The recently applied spray hammerite on my Mk1’s tank seems to have held up ok when it overflows from the sender seal - another job I need to do!
John Payne

Guy

Glad you found the problem. Perhaps use a cork gasket next time??

I spray painted my tank black from a rattle can and then used petrol proof lacquer.I was a new steel one.All seems well even with a minor leak from the outlet pipe I found stainless can resist some paint adhering. I used the lacquer on the master cylinder as I quite like the original cast finish and it has resisted the odd spill of brake fluid.
Bob Beaumont

I have now resprayed the tank, this time using an etching primer first as when I stripped what appeared to be sound paint, I found that it came off in large flakes. It was poorly bonded. I got a rattle can of black from auto factors. U pol branded and says it is "petrol resistant" which I hope is good enough.
GuyW

I used a fair amount of Hammerite on my midget restoration, now on the Porsche I'm finding there are much better paints out there and worth paying more for.

For things like suspension components, fuel tanks, under the car etc this stuff is really good. Very hard wearing and chip resistant.
https://www.rust.co.uk/product/cat/em-121-epoxy-rust-proofing-chassis-paint-7

Chris Madge

Thanks Chris. That is exactly the stuff,from rust.co.uk except in grey, that I used on the complete underside of my frog as a base coat. Didn't think to use it on suspension components and fuel tank though!
I've repainted the tank with a "fuel proof" rattle can from local motor factors, though there is still the underside to do.
GuyW

Guy, I think you've solved your own problem there, it sounds more likely to have been the etch to the stainless than the paint itself?
I've used the Upol single pack etch for stainless and it seems to do a decent job of keeping the next layers of paint attached.
I've occasionally had trouble with the base colours not adhering to the etch, I think that was related to letting the etch fully cure and not then abrading it for a key. I'm told that drying and curing are not the same.
A proper painter might come along and correct me?
P Simpson

This thread was discussed between 18/03/2022 and 24/03/2022

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