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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Pulling wire wheel front hubs.....
Searching for the answer to my problem, I've seen the same question asked on other sites. Very detailed replies tell the OP how to do every other step of the process, but fail to answer the question actually asked! The OP then comes back with, "Yes, but......" and the replies he receives once again go over everything that's already been said. The original question never gets answered and the OP eventually gives up......
So, here goes:
I need to pull a front hub from my wire-wheeled midget. I can remove the wheel. I can unbolt the brake calliper. I can pull the dust-cap in seconds (a confection of 5/16 nut and bolt, 1" long nut, repair washer and die-holder!) I can remove the split pin, castellated nut and washer.
What I cannot remove is the hub! Tugging with my hands doesn't work. It never did when I had steel wheels either. I had to use a hub-puller. And the steel-wheel hubs have a dirty-great flange (onto which the wheel bolts) that provides perfect purchase for the the claws of a puller, be it two-legged or three.
But the wire-wheel hub has no such flange. A normal hub puller simply won't work. A mammoth one, the size of a small spider crab, would allow the claws to engage onto the rim of the brake disc, but that really doesn't seem like a very good idea, does it?
So, is there a special tool? Can one be fabricated? I can see how a long, substantial bolt, screwed through a threaded tube welded into the hole drilled through the centre of a spinner would work; the spinner screwed into its usual position on the hub, the bolt then screwed onto the stub axle and tightened until the hub pops. But that would require a different spinner for each side. There must be an easier way?
Your solutions, please!
|For what its worth,there was/is a special tool made by Churchill. It works on the same principal as your spinner idea. It was part no 18G 363 for 12tpi hubs and 18G 1032 for 8tpi hubs. Have a look at www.spritespot.com|
|This is the tool that Bob mentions. As you can see, there is a typo for the part number in the WSM - it should be 1032, as Bob said.|
Personally, I've never had a problem just pulling them by hand.
If you have eared spinners, you could try fitting the spinner and tapping with a soft-faced hammer.
Alternatively, fabricate some 'ears' which could be bolted on using the hub to disc bolts, so you have something to attach a puller to.
|Dave O'Neill 2|
|I put a socket reversed under the spinner, so that the square end sits on the stub axle. I then wind on the spinner, which then pulls the hub off. I have to change the socket half way if the hub is particularly stiff. I have a set of old spinners that I can batter with a 1kg hammer to do this, but with care you can use good ones. Usually the hubs pop fairly quickly once the socket contacts the spinner.|
|yep..agree with what Dominic says...|
All brilliant responses. Whilst looking into the Churchill tool I came across this:
I swear that I came up with the butchered spinner idea all by myself!!
But it's hats off to Dominic. That must surely be the first method that I try. I'm off to the Le Mans Classic at sparrow's-fart tomorrow and it's only a "little" wobbly, so it'll do until I get home.
Been a member here for ages but hardly ever drop by and post even more rarely. But I knew that this would be the place to ask.....
Dominic's method should work a treat, I have similar issues with the rear hubs on my Elan+2 and use a piece of turned steel with an allen screw through it which has a tapered end which engages in the stub-axle and ensures no damage to the threads. Place it in the hub, do the spinner up hand tight over it and whack the spinner once with the hammer and it's off.
SJportscars sell a similar tool for the Elan, see their website for the design idea.
|THe spinner and spacer does it easily!|
Replacing the bearings? Oh no!
This thread was discussed between 06/07/2016 and 08/07/2016
This thread is from the archive. The Live MG Midget and Sprite Technical BBS is active now.