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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Radiator Advice

Hi Guys,
Finally decided to man up and replace the Rad on my 1972 Mk 3 midget.
Can I just run through my plans and possibly you guys could see if I'm missing anything?

Top & Bottom Hoses off.
Remove Grill
Remove bolts at either side of grill aperture
4 Screws in slam panel removed.
Carefully lift out radiator in Cowl assembly
Clean up any crud
( Put Band Aids on cuts on fingers...........)

Replace radiator in Cowl and replace entire unit as one thing

Have I missed anything getting the thing out?
Cheers guys
Colin
colin frowen

yes - disconnect the small hose to the overflow tank.
David Smith

Colin

Are all the hoses in good condition, including heater hoses and the little cylinder head bypass hose, as well as fan belt, thermostat and water pump?

If not, find good quality parts as it is a good time to replace these when the radiator is off.

Flush the rest of the system too.

Are you going to get the radiator refurbished with a new core? If you can find an old school radiator repair place near you.

I would buy some new high quality jubilee clips too. Particularly for the bottom hose. And track down some Ethylene glycol blue antifreeze (Bluecol but if not the correct spec Comma or Massey Ferguson/Agriline), not as easy to find as once was).

Cheers
Mike
M Wood

Hi Guys,
Many thanks.
Duly noted & actioned.
Cheers colin
colin frowen

Colin,
having done this too many times before, I'd start with removing the four setscrews (and two screws under car) for the rad grille as that will also access what has been forgotten here, the screws inside at the bottom of the cowling.

Two small screws hold the cowling to slam panel too.

If you have the engine fan you might want to put a some thin protection for it and rad.

You might not need to depending in the state of your caged nuts on reinstalling the cowling but I have to use a jack under the middle of the rad to take up a little slack in alignment. It also takes some weight making getting all the screws in easier. I put a piece of wood between the jack and rad to spread the load and help with balance.

Follow the refill instructions in the Driver's Handbook and you won't go wrong or need to do anything extra. (After half filling the expansion tank keep the pressure cap on it when topping up the rad.)

Only (initially) put the two middle screws in on the rad grille to slam panel (and two bottom screws) as you will want to remove the rad grille again after first good run to check tightness of fixings and the two outer rad grille to slam panel screws are awkward to get at. Or make the slots on the rad grille tabs open ended for ease of removal and reinstallation.

When checking tightness of jubilee clips after first good run remember to slacken them off a half turn before tightening to check the cam on them is actually moving the band, don't over-tighten though.

If you've not already ordered a new rad and you're thinking of buying the Q Parts one from MGOC then unless it's improved in the last 3 years don't. The first one I got I had to clean the threads for the screws and the filler plug, neither my existing brass plug or the new replacement I bought fitted well and then the top plate lifted when fitted to the cowl. I got a replacement but only the other week I noticed the top plate has lifted on that too, the spot (solder?) joints are far too shallow to be really effective.

Good news you shouldn't need band aids.
Nigel Atkins

If not bound by originality you could modify the rad installation whilst it is out.
Mine secures in place with 2 plain studs (pegs) which are a push fit into rubber grommets at the bottom, and is then held by just two nuts at the top. So you drain the coolant, unfasten top and bottom hoses, spin off the two easily accessible nuts at the top and the rad just lifts out.
GuyW

Any chance of a photo please Guy as I'm at a loss with the details.

I think Lawrence had a quick system but I thought it was for rad plus cowl removal, or I might be remembering wrong.

I definitely should have had mine on quick release fixings but each time I do it I think it'll be the last so never got around to it. But really many items on my car would have been better for my with wingnut fittings for ease and speed.
Nigel Atkins

Not at home at the moment, Nigel, though there's little if anything to see when it's installed. Lawrence took my idea, and improved on it, I think to remove the slam panel and air box together with the rad.
Both versions have been discussed on here before when we were both experimenting.
GuyW

Thinking about this, as I paint a bathroom, there are two more screws that attach the cowl to the slam panel on the top surface. Those need to come off too though for a long while I didn't bother fitting them as they dont seem to do much!
GuyW

I'll look in the Archives.

I covered the those small screws in a previous post, and I hope the other fixings missed, but I always think, to be told twice or more is better than not at all (yes I do poetry too!).

I remember the fixings inside the bottom of the cowling as on mine the captive nuts are missing and it's a stretch for me to operate the socket and spanner on setscrew and nut.

One of my caged nuts was in a home made cage piece and would always be just out of dead ahead, sometimes just a few attempts others more until I used my favourite repair/tool bluetac to hold the nut in place, reinforced with a couple of broken matchsticks, true British engineering at its best, even if I say so myself.

Nigel Atkins

"there are two more screws"
Nigel I meant on my modified version. It wasn't meant as a repeat of the general advice you had already listed.
On mine there are just 2 push in pegs at the bottom, 2 nuts at the top plus those two cowl screws. Then it lifts out complete with shroud.
GuyW

Two for the price of one. 😉

http://www.mg-cars.net/mg-midget-sprite-technical-bbs/crossflow-radiator-easy-removal-modification-2013103018565913778.htm




anamnesis

I think you might have just blown your cover! 🤪
GuyW

With that joke Guy I forgive your previous confusing posts, double meaning too., well done.

You wouldn't want to do that with my Q Parts rad as both edge joints would lift.
Nigel Atkins

👀 Yikes.
anamnesis

Time for some calibration questions -
'Anyone tried some experiments to try to investigate causes of and resolve oil breathing/sucking issues?'

'Got any tips for fabricating a coolant cross tube?'

Or perhaps any wise words on FWBs or sensible welding repairs to produce a stong safe MoT-able car in an economical manner?

Then we might know...

Cheers
Mike

PS I kicked myself for not buying a solid 1275 Midget that graced this forum that was bought as a parts car and then its potential was recognised and realised through careful and ingenious repairs, including welding, as a budget project car and briefly offered for sale in need of a paint job and nothing more - lovely picture of it sitting nice and square in a London square on a seasonal London Bridges run.
M Wood

This thread was discussed between 25/10/2020 and 27/10/2020

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

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