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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Radiator Hoses

Hi,

I'm looking to remove the heater from my 1973 RWA midget. I know I can get the blanking plate for the head etc, but I cannot seem to find anywhere I can get a hose (or set) which includes a bottom hose with no heater take off.

Does anyone have any idea where I can get one from? Or know of any other solutions?

Thanks

Richard
R Fieldhouse

Out of interest, why do you want to remove the heater?
Dave O'Neill2

Dave,

The car is being built as a bit of a project by myself and my son (he's doing a motorsport engineering course). He wants to make it a bit of a fast road/track day car. So was looking to clean up the engine bay and remove the heater (but keep all the parts if we decide to put it back in!).

We have done the front suspension and are now going to start on tidying up the engine bay.

Any tips from anyone would be appreciated, i've not done any of this for years, since messing about with a mk1 escort in my youth!

Richard
R Fieldhouse

The simple, though not very elegant solution is to use a short bolt as a stopper in the heater branch of the hose and secure with a jubilee clip.
Guy W

Thanks

I saw that Moss had a hose without the branch on it, but they do not stock them any more, just thought someone may know of a place that does.

Richard
R Fieldhouse

You might struggle to find a hose, unless it's NOS.

It was also more likely to be earlier hoses for the vertical flow radiators that were available without the heater take-off.

On my racer, I replaced the thermostat with a blanking sleeve (common practice) and also plumbed the take-off from the back of the head into the top hose, which reduced the running temperature considerably.
Dave O'Neill2

Dave,

Could you explain what you mean by "replaced the thermostat with a blanking sleeve"?

Thanks

Richard
R Fieldhouse

Richard,
you can get a set of good quality hoses from Classic Silicone Hoses and if you contact them with your requirements they can do that hose for you as they have the hoses made

http://www.classicsiliconehoses.com/

they're at Silverstone Classic so if you're going you pre-order and save P&P and possibly(?) get a show discount(?) to offset any extra charge (if there is one?) for the 'altered' hose

I got one of there sets and it's good quality and they weren't stingy with the straight hoses length so that I had enough to easily do my bypass to water pump hose to water pump and give away more off-cuts for
Nigel Atkins

Thanks for the info Nigel.

I will give them a call.

Richard
R Fieldhouse

the quick way is to remove the heater from the circuit and connect the outlet at the back of the head to the copper pipe that sits next to the carbs. No special hoses just a few inches of standard heater hose needed. It also helps to prevent a hotspot developing above #4 cylinder which engines used in competition can be prone to.
David Smith

that's a good point especially if you're going to put the heater back in

if you do the bypass hose to metal pipe near carbs and leave the heater tap in then occasionally turn it fully off and fully on and the odd drop of oil once or twice a year to stop the tap seizing up like unused items do
Nigel Atkins

David and Nigel, You do not want to simply remove the heater matrix and then plumb that hot water from the head straight back into the engine (bottom radiator hose), as that can lead to overheating.

If you want to remove the heater matrix, but you want to flow water out of the back of the head, plumb it into the top radiator hose instead (hot water going in to the radiator for cooling).



Norm
Norm Kerr

I run my racer my way - but I have a recored 3-row rad, she's only over heated once in 10 years (when my spanner for the weekend left the header tank cap loose).
David Smith

My ex racer is plumbed as per Dave O.

The top hose is a "special with an inlet for the heater return" but no heater of course. The outlet tap by #4 cylinder has a vertical outlet instead of the more usual horizontal outlet - sorry but I cant find the source.


Doug Plumb

As Guy says, the original heater inlet to the bottom hose is bunged with a bolt that has the head turned to tidy it up.


Doug Plumb

+1 to self made blanking plate on the head and sticking a bit of bronze bar in the hose take off with a jubilee clip on it...working so far...

(will unbodge one day when have money for a heater or go proper race spec..)
D Paul

On my previous racer, the heater return was plumbed into the bottom hose. When I moved it to the top hose, it ran 30 degrees (F) cooler!
Dave O'Neill2

did that lose much power Dave? - would expect it to! IIRC optimum is around 90 deg C?
David Smith

It dropped the temp from approx 100C to 82C.

The guy that used to do my heads - the late Les Ryder - seemed to think that 77C was about optimum for an A-series.
Dave O'Neill2

good info - thanks.
David Smith

hi Richard,
Found this...
http://www.omniautos.force9.co.uk/sprite/m_cool.htm

scroll down a bit and its got diagrams and description of what you are doing...
Andy Phillips (frankenfrog)

Quote from The Good Book

"that for maximum engine power output, optimum engine temperature is 158F (60C)"



HTH
Doug Plumb

Thanks for the info everyone. I especially like the link to http://www.omniautos.force9.co.uk/sprite/m_cool.htm

I think we will try to emulate that.

Richard
R Fieldhouse

Doug that quote might be from a 'good book' but it's not from the good book :)
Nigel Atkins

Which book is it from, Doug?
Dave O'Neill2

Daniel's...
David Smith

Who also from time to time supplies silicone hoses, possibly including "specials" without the heater take-off?
Guy W

This thread was discussed between 01/05/2013 and 03/05/2013

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

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