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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - rear lowering blocks

I received my rear lowering blocks in the mail today and I started to install them and am wondering if something is wrong.

The post that normally sticks into the axle from the springs seems a little high for the blocks but the blocks fit into the axle just fine. I am considering taking them to a machine shop and having the shop deepen the hole so the blocks sit flush on the spring.

Do I have the wrong springs for these blocks and they need modification?

The car is a 78 but I am not sure which year the springs are from as the car is not exactly original.




Stefan

Stafan,

I think there is supposed to be another plate below the lowering block like whats under and next to the leaf spring...looks sorta like a bow tie with 5 holes in it, 4 in the corners and one in the middle....Thats what my carrera rear tube shock kit with lowering blocks does...Infact I want to say there are also 2 pieces of rubber pad that incapsol the lowing block.


If you want Ill pull it out and snap a photo...not a big deal.

Prop
Prop

I'd appreciate that. I'll look through the MOSS catalogs and see what they have and order the correct parts.
Stefan

No problem...Give me about 10 minutes

Prop
Prop

looks like I need a #24
http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29297

The previous owner had the car lowered with some barn made square tube blocks which collapsed and I tossed.
Stefan

Here is pic 1 of 2




Prop

And pic 2 of 2
...the left side is the bottom and the right side is the top...they go on in that order...hope that helps

Ill stay around for a few minutes if you got any questions

prop



Prop

opps

Ill do another ...from the end view
Prop

thanks!

I need that butterfly piece and the rubber buffers.

On one side of the axle is a small sheet metal piece that goes between the curved part of the U bolt and the axle.. is that a standard item?

I never worked on the rear springs much before this!
Stefan

pic #3...


Prop

well shoot, you get the idea of the rubbers that they fit aroud the block with a recessed grove.

no pic 4

Prop




Prop

>>>>>>>>On one side of the axle is a small sheet metal piece that goes between the curved part of the U bolt and the axle.. is that a standard item?<<<<<<<<<


You mean the butterfly/bowtie thing....there are 2 of those in the photo there is a black one and a silver one...yes the are the same. its in pic #3

The anged piece with a bolt...is not standard, it holds the bottom of the tube shock mount and takes the place of the stock one that holds the lever shock


Prop
Prop

BTW Stefan....

Spend the extra few $$$$ and get the red neophrene rubbers, they will last forever as the black rubber will desolve in a couple years.


http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=64056



prop


.
Prop

Stefan. You MUST make sure the peg on the spring locates fully into the lowering block.

Mark.
M T Boldry

Thanks Prop; another case of me taking apart something that I had not in the past and finding out someone thought some of the parts were superfluous so they never reinstalled them only to be a pain in my ass because I tend to want to do things the correct way.

I'll be placing an order with Moss tonight and now the car will sit on some stands for the weekend I had planned on doing some other work on it...

oh yeah, I got a new steering wheel but the old one's mount is siezed on the shaft. I used a wheel puller and only managed to break the hub mount, tried penitrating oil, torch, hammer, bigger hammer, a little more hammer and some beer and its still on there.... Any ideas on removing an old steering wheel hub to install a new one? Remove the steering column from the car and use an even bigger hammer/ press??
Stefan

For someone else who doesn't fool with leaf springs that much, I have this vision of removing the 4 nuts on the bottom plate and everything flying apart. But, I guess with the car sitting still, there is no tension on the spring, its just tempered into a curve, right? So, when you take it apart, say to put new poly bushings on, does everything stay together? I have a fear of the spring moving away from the axle and making it difficult to get the U-bolts back into place so I can start the nuts. Same with the ends to replace those bushings.

Jack
Jack Orkin

Jack,

The axle sits ontop of the axle and the ubolts rest ontop of the axle. Nothing falls apart. You have to pick the ucolts up off the axle (or persuade them with a mallet) and then you can pick the axle up off the springs. The bushings sandwhich between the the axle and the spring so its not something thats going to pop and fly apart. I'll take more photos tonight of mine and how I've got it jacked up. I'm not all to sure about taking the springs off the body but I'll show you the results in a few hours after I get home and have a beer while working on my MG!

-Stefan
Stefan

Thanks, Stefan. Also interested in how it goes with your steering wheel as that is on my wish list, too. Thought it might make it a little easier to get in and out with something a little smaller than the bus wheel! I think it is 15.5" diameter and was thinking maybe 14" would work, but don't want to go too small.

Jack
Jack Orkin

LOL Jack,

Now thats funny, No your not going to get that lucky, its going to take alot of new words and prying to get that monster to release...I wish it would fly out, But no, Its going to take a whole lota big hammer.

a couple notes drop a 2x4 on a stands to support the car at the rear just before the wheel wells (well before the spring shackle plates) that way it will keep the car level and straight, dont wash of the dirt, it makes a great marker for putting new stuff back in the same place. Plan on removing the seats, as 2 of the 4 shackle plate bolts are under the seat per side


Prop
Prop

it worked! beer+hammer+wrenches to remove steering column = steering hub off!


Stefan

Stefan,

I think you had too many beers...that ain't no hammer!!

Jack
Jack Orkin

That ain't no hammer,....Now this is a hammer

Prop


Prop

well I had a choice between my ball-pien hammer, that, or the 10 pound sledge hammer I was using to destroy the walk way to my front door where I am installing a moat and drawbridge.... I love being a bachelor!
Stefan

"On one side of the axle is a small sheet metal piece that goes between the curved part of the U bolt and the axle.. is that a standard item?"
That saddle if you will is a standard piece but it is not illustrated in the Moss illustration when you said you need a #24. The curved piece fits between the u bolts and the axle housing to prevent the ubolts from wearing away the housing. you probably only had one because the other one wore out and the PO didn't bother to replace it. I haven't tried to source them but you might find a used set somewhere. They do need to be there or you will be venting the housing in a bad way.
J Bubela

Landshark!! That aint no beer either. eeeeuw

Jack,
Order a new set of U-Bolts!!
I just finished my rear bushings and had to do them twice and place 2 orders.
The threads will almost certainly be stretced and won't tighten back up snug.
Phil

This thread was discussed between 27/07/2009 and 31/07/2009

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

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