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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Rear Spring Replacement

Hi,
I recently broke a rear spring and now have 2-replacements to fit. No probs removing old ones and the manual says "refitting is the reversal" But after connecting the front end onto the plate and fitting the rear shackle and bushes the centre of the spring does not line up with the 'U' bolts- and won't in a month of Sunday's. Is there a 'Knack' of putting them back together.
Help, I am at my wits end!
Bill.
W Wood

Either the spring is the wrong way round Was the metalastic bush fitted in the front shakle?

Or you need to simply push the axle back and locate it on the spring dowel

Have you a camera to post a picture?
Robert (Bob) Midget Turbo

Hi Bob,
Yes the metal bush was fitted on the front of the spring just as it was on the old spring. I'm not sure what you mean about pushing the axle back - if anything the axle would need to come forward? The sring appears to be too short to fit the mountings and I do understand that as there is now more curvature. They are the correct springs purchased from mg specialists.
Bill.
W Wood

Are you saying the springs are too low and therefore the check straps are holding the axle up away from the springs?

If so remove the check straps and fit the axle to the springs.

It is very common for new springs to cause the rear shackel to be the wrong way round

I generally put a trolley jack under the centre of the spring, start jacking it up and ensure the rear end of the spring expands under the rear mounting. This is often enough to allow the axle to be bolted to the Spring.
I will just search my files for a photo
Robert (Bob) Midget Turbo

Here is a picture of a spring that has just been fitted to the rear shackel. As you can see it is a little strained. As it is jacked up in the middle you must ensure that the end of the spring extends BELOW the mounting.


Robert (Bob) Midget Turbo

Just replaced my rear axle and found I needed to undo the checkstraps at the top both sides then locate the axle and do up the U bolts then put a jack under the spring one side at a time to get the check straps back on again.

Ben Brown

I just did rear springs on my 76 midget last weekend. I found the factory installed bushings(supposed to be on the front) were on the rear of the spring. These were from Moss USA but were made in the UK. Maybe the same issue you have?
C.R. Orchel

When I installed new poly bushings in my car last spring I found that the springs wouldn't quite reach the shackels. My fix was to remove the mounting bracket on the body and install the shackle and then use a tapered pin or a large Phillips screwdriver to pull the mounting bracket into alignment so that I could get one bolt started. Once that was done installing the rest was easy.
Bill Young

W Wood writes>>"after connecting the front end onto the plate and fitting the rear shackle and bushes the centre of the spring does not line up with the 'U' bolts"<<

From the description, I assume that we're talking about 'half-elliptical' springs?

I've replaced my rear springs (1500 Midget) two or three times in the past. I found the easiest sequence to reassemble is this: first bolt the front (detached) hanger plates to the new springs, then bolt the plates (with springs attached) to the car. Next, bolt the axle to the springs - this is a straightforward job because the axle is free to move, as are the springs (ie free to swing in an up/down direction).

Finally, attach the rear spring shackles by prising the rear spring 'leg' downwards with a pry-bar or small hydraulic jack (position the jack between the top of the leaf spring and underside of the car body). In effect, using a pry-bar/jack is slightly tensioning the spring - so be careful.



Andy Hock

Hi,
Thanks everyone for their advice- I now have my new springs fitted. It was quite a marathon but a combination of undoing the 'check strap' and moving the axle (forgot about this) and two trolley jacks!
Had a slight problem with one of the new bolts for holding the bush in the plate at the front - just a tad too tight.
I'm now off to Glamis Castle to take part in a display of over 130 MG's.
Thanks again.
Bill.
W Wood

I am about to replace my rear springs too (in my 73 - half elliptical).

I have a question. I am expecting that I should do one side at a time so that the position where it clamps to the axle housing won't change. How should I jack up that side (I know that I will also need to hold the axle at the right height too - I know how to do that).

Other than the regular jack point on the side of the car (for the portable jack) I can't see a place to jack it up.

Should I just use that? I am used to working on bigger cars that need something more substantial so I have not been using it.

My plan is to (using Moss parts) change all springs and bushings (1 inch lower, higher spring rate). Also, I am going to install tube shocks in the rear. I have never done it but this seems straight forward (I know that nothing is simple as it seems).

Rebecca
R Harvey

jack up the car under the differential, but instead of putting the jack stands under the ends of the axle housing where you normally would, use a 2x6 piece of lumber JUST in front of the forward spring mountings and put the jack stands under that. This location is where the tub is very stout, and as long as your pinch flanges are not rusted out, the whole rear of the car ought to rest there nicely (for maximum working space, I jack up the front of the car and get it up on jack stands first).

Then, with the body safely supported on 4 jack stands, and none of the rear suspension held up by anything, you can proceed to undo it all from the body, using the jack (still under the differential) to "trolley" it around your garage, out from under the body and over to where you can get easy access to everything.

There is no need to worry about doing just one side at a time, as the springs can only be bolted to the housing in one place, on each side.


Norm
Norm Kerr

et voila:




Norm Kerr

one additional comment: the 2x6 goes all of the way across (for the most stability), not two separate pieces.

Sorry, I just realized that photo didn't make that clear.


Norm
Norm Kerr

Hi,
When replacing my springs I firstly jacked the car up under the rear axle approx mid way between the hub and the diff - I then placed two axle stands under each side and removed the trolley jacks. I placed two wooden batons approx 2 x 8 under the rear floor section just in front of the front plate fixing and raised both sides until the weight came off the springs. I kept handy a small 'bottle jack' to assist in raising the spring to allow the u-bolts to protrude through the plate before adding the lock nuts. Take care when doing this that the rear bracket is kept downwards and slightly to the rear of the car as I had to pull downwards on the spring to allow the bracket to return to its proper position.
Bill.
W Wood

This thread was discussed between 08/07/2010 and 13/07/2010

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

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