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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Recent 5 Speed Conversion Owners

I have found a 5 speed 210 gearbox. What are the optional extras that you got with it, eg shifter.
Did you rebuild the original, what was the cost of the Kit, I think I figured just under 1K. Did you install it yourself.
Thanks,
Allan (hopking to be driving the highways of pa in 5th gear before too long)
ADJ Jacks

I got a rivergate kit and a speedo adapter. For the shift handle I just welded the original to the datsun.

Installed it in a weekend. I had my local hydraulic shop make up a line for the clutch.
Trevor-Jessie

Allan,
You should be looking to get the shifter, the clutch fork, and the driveshaft with it. Rivergate lists the stuff at http://www.rivergate5speed.com/desc_of_trans.html
I installed mine myself, too. Morrisservice also carries a kit, but Paul A is having serious health problems and can be hard to contact just now.

I did not opt for the speedometer adapter, choosing to use a SigmaSport bicycle speedometer. Now they have come out with the SigmaSport BC1606L which has a backlight... tempted to upgrade. I did get the Rivergate slave cylinder and hose.

Rivergate is currently charging $499 to take your transmission, rebuild it with their standard set of bearings, gaskets, seals, and synchros, and modify it for Spridget use. Not a bad deal, as local transmission shops have quoted me that much just for labor on the rebuild.
David "why would you need fifth in PA?" Lieb
David Lieb

David,
I drive 25 miles each way to work on the Highway each day.;oP
Allan (there ain't no real hills in PA)
ADJ Jacks

Allan,
You must be in the wrong end of PA. My mother grew up in western PA (Butler County)and there are lots of good Spridgety roads there.
David "Rt 528" Lieb
David Lieb

I ordered the kit with speedo adapter and modified gearleaver. Later on I ordered the new slave and clutchline.

Before I started I ordered the rebuild kit and rebuild the tranny myself.

The rebuild took me a weekend but I had to wait for aditional parts so that was 2 times half a weekend. The actual fitting of the 5 speed took me 2 weekends but thats because I am a very slow mechanic:-)

With some help and the right tools it can be done in a weekend. The tough parts are the cutting of the bellhouse because its alu and that fouls every tool you use, fitting the speedoadapter because I dont have 5 year old asian hands and the new gearbox mount.

But when its in.... WOW. Best mod ever.
Bas Timmermans

The weekend before last we reattached the Rivergate kit to my new engine. Although the clutch was replaced at the same time after 10K miles of heavy Central London inner city driving and some serious (but limited) track abuse, there was virtually no wear on the clutch. So much so that it will make a very nice spare and I'd have no hesitation putting it back in if I had to.
I have the rivergate slave cylinder which is a dream, also the rivergate speedo reduction box.But it is such a B*astard to refit once it's bolted into the car that I've cut an access panel into the side of the transmission tunnel for easy access to replace the cable when it goes (I had the plastic cog inside the gearbox shear quite early on and had to change it).
I also originally had the Datsun stick before Rivergate adapted it to their off-set one which they allowed me to swap free of charge two years after first installing the kit.
I can't praise the Perry's high enough. Nothing has ever been too much trouble for them and they are always there to provide excellent transatlantic after sales service (even years after).

I have a question though. What have those of you who've done the conversion done about a protective cover on the back of the bellhousing to protect the starter motor. mine was so full of road grime that it had seized and wouldn't disengage.
G Lazarus

I have had the 210 conversion exactly one year, and really love it


I didnt rebuild the tranny but did take it to a tranny shop I trust alot and had them give it a look over...just needed a bearing pack and a new oil seal...no big deal

I got the kit with the rear oil seal, speedo drive and made my own stainless steel clutch line from AN parts, I also got a hi-torque starter so I didnt have to cut a hole in the tranny bell housing....I installed mine in end of july and august so the temp was always 115 degrees in the shop...so 2 hours tops was All I could handle

I had several issues pop up but the perrys where always willing to help and took my calls everytime...they definatly live up to service after the sale....the main problem was the adjustable slave push rod, but I finally got it working....the next issue was installing the tranny in the tunnel....GOD that was demon possision all the way...vary hard


the only other issue was do to the speedo sticking out the side the engine and tranny sit off center and back end high...its hard to see unless you have to deal with level everyday....but I was assured it is well with in tolerance


I want to say my kit was just a hair over $800, but considering the amount I have driven it this year, Its close to paying for its self already because of the additional 20 to 25% increase in fuel milage.


prop
Prop

Have just gotten my Rivergate conversion in and put about 20 miles on it. Had to cut about 1 inch deep by 2 inch wide out of the front edge of the hole in the shifter boot metal cover (74 midget), so 3rd and 5th wouldn't hit the cover. Re the starter motor hanging out the rear of the bellhousing: There's a bolt hole (not being used) close to that point. If necessary, I'm going to cobble up a shield out of aluminum beer cans, use that one bolt hole to bolt it on, and silicone around the edges to seal it up.
I'm using the Rivergate clutch slave. Pedal is almost on the floor and the clutch is much stiffer than stock.
Re installing the speedo adaptor (from Rivergate): I cursed, screamed and ground my hands up for about 4 hours before giving up. Called a friend who has smaller hands. He took one look at it and came up with the solution. Remove the sending unit from the trans, hook the adaptor up outside that area (up through the shifter hole while sitting in the car), then reinstall in the trans. The bolt holding the sending unit to the trans is a 10 mm and easy to get to. Talk about feeling stupid. One word of warning--if you remove the speedometer sending unit from the trans, do NOT pry up under the ear (that contains the bolt hole) with a screwdriver to pop it out. It's fragile aluminum (more like pot metal.)Or you (like me) will end up buying a new body. And mine took 4 weeks to come in.
JM Morris

JM Morris,

Congratulations.....its a real bear isnt it, but well worth it in the end....I like your idea of the starter cover...(beer cans)

when I pull my engine later in the year to rebuild, Im going to use a scissor jack to streach out that area of the tranny tunnel, where the speedo drive goes, then I can re-modify the tranny plate so everythng sits straight and level...

I lucked out, I test fitted the tranny 1st and saw that is was going to be a bear getting the speedo drive in (AFTER) the tranny was installed, so I loosely installed it 1st before installing the tranny and engine


So how did you like installing the tranny plate mount on under the car...thats where I lost a good pint of blood...my fingers and hands hurt for over a week after I was done...took 2 weeks just to get all the metal shavings out from under the skin.

prop
Prop

My clutch pedal also feels like it does nothing until about 50% down and is then quite stiff. However Toby was checking the the master cylinder from underneath the car and said that even when I thought that the first 50% was doing nothing, it actually was engaging.
When it's next driven, I'll try changing gear with less pressure on the clutch and see what happens.

Another advantage is with the RHD cars it's possible to bleed the clutch from above.

So we conclude that it's not the easiest job in the world but oh so very worth it.
G Lazarus

Re: shifter. I cut mine about 2 1/2 inches from the bottom, then cut out another chunk about 1 1/2 inches long. I ground flats on both side of the remaining pieces (flat in line with longitudinal axis of car) and drilles and tapped the short piece 1/4 x 28, then drilled the other piece to match, assembled with two countersunk machine screws, loctite and JB weld smeared in between. It pops right up in virtually the same location as the original shifter, so no modification of the tin hat was required. Did have to make a retainer ring to hold the boot in place due to the longer throw.
Mike MacQueen

This thread was discussed between 18/08/2008 and 19/08/2008

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