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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Remote Bleeder

Have tried searching but not found it!!! I know it is possible to make a remote bleeder for the clutch to make it less of a painful ordeal but what components do I need to do this, measurments and parts or photo's please..

Thanks Ian
IAN Pickering (68 Midget) Getting There!!!!

Quite self explanatory Ian

view from the bottom to follow

Method

Obtain a length of copper/cunifer (preferred!) brake pipe, normal male ends both ends.

Obtain a brake pipe adapter/extender* (mine was from LeacyMG and was for some kind of MGB the guy told me) and fit it to the top end then fit the bleed nipple which you will be leaving out of the slave cylinder.

Make a small bracket to hold it up at the top of the bell housing (Mine was around the type 9 adapter bellhousing but would be just as effective on an A series box.


*I can't help with a part number I regret, just now, but if you can't get one locally I probably do still have the receipt with the part number on it somewhere.

Then read part two...


Bill

The bottom of the pipe simply replaces the bleed nipple. The normal male end screws in straight to the bleed point and you just curve the pipe around the contours of the bellhousing.

Clamping it at the top as in the previous picture

(can I put the engine back in now?)

OK just a joke I took the pictures ages ago

I believe Alan Anstead uses a flexible hose to do this job, both versions work.

HTH


Bill

...or you can buy a nice flexible braided one from IIRC Peter May...
David Smith(davidDOTsmithATstonesDOTcom

The flexible rear flexible brake hose off a sprite / midget seems to be the correct length for a remote bleed.
I also use the 3 way brass joint from the back axle blanking off the surplus hole with a 3/8 unf bolt and copper washer. This joint has a handy bolt hole for fixing. I use a more rigid bracket fixed to the two top bellhousing bolts whereas Bill has fixed his to one bolt only. Two variations on same theme.
Alan Anstead

I made kits from parts that I bought in bulk from Thinkautomotive at Heathrow. Bring the bleeder into the footwell so that you can bleed it and push the pedal at the same time. Think make a nice valve end that goes onto goodridge braided PTFE hose.


...or you could cut a bigger access panel?
http://www.spritespot.com/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=toomanyspridgets&id=redcar1
rob multi-sheds thomas

I'm not sure if this will help you, but I have installed speed bleeders on the brake cylinders of my auto X car.This should work on the slave cylinder if they are the same as the front bleed screws. I haven't checked for sure, but think they are. You will only have to loosen it and tighten it once, at the beginning and when finished. Loosen the bleeder screw 1/4 turn slip on a clear plastic hose pump the petal until bubbles stop in the line, retighten. Done. I purchased mine locally from a speed shop. They are made by Russell and sold on line at summitracing.com. The size is 3/8-24.
J Bubela

I have just bought one of these connectors from Leacy MG in Birmingham, the part number is BCA 4002 and it is a brake pipe connector for an MGB and it cost £2.25 + VAT

HTH
Alan
Alan

Leacey was where I bought mine too Alan, I see the price hasn't gone up!
Bill

J Bubela, I tried speed bleeders on my car but they started leaking around the threads after a couple of tightening/loosening cycles and would allow air to seep in when the pedal was released. Have you seen similar problems? If so what did you do to solve? I'm definitely going to make up a remote for my clutch next time I have the slave cylinder out.
Bill Young

Bill,

With speedbleeders you are supposed to re-coat the threads are using them a few times. Speedbleeder sell the stuff to do this.

It's also possible that if the hole the speedbleeder was going to go into wasn't that neat - eg a bit rusty- the life of the coating would be shorter than might be expected.
Daniel Thirteen-Twelve

This thread was discussed between 24/03/2008 and 03/04/2008

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

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