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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Replacing sump gasket

replacing the sump gasket on my midget 1500 . What gasket sealant would you recommend ??
D Stratton

I was just about to start a thead on this subject, only a 1275.

In addition to the gasket itself, what are the recomended sealants to use on the front and rear seals

Phil
Phil Burke

Blue Hylomar sparingly applied.
Deborah Evans

Thanks Deb,

Does the Hylomar go on the front (cork) and rear (neoprene) seals as well.

I have heard that it is best to snug up all the bolts, leave for several hours and then tighten fully. Your thoughts on this procedure?
Phil
Phil Burke

The 1500 and 1275 are 2 different animals. But the Hylomar is good.

On the 1275, I suggest using a scissors jack and a bit of wood the size of the pan, roughly. Jack the pan up tight to the block, then install the screws. Using the screws alone to pull the pan up tight, especially to crush the end cap corks or rubbers, is asking a lot of the screws, and can strip them.

Peter C
Peter Caldwell

Im a huge fan of the "black" RTV.... thats stuff is amazing... oil reaistant, never hardens, 600 degree temps, and sticks like dog doo doo laced bubble gum on your sunday best shoes

RTV makes other colors that do differant things with differant spec.

But for gaskets in oily areas ... the black rtv is your friend

Just a note... only smear one side of the gasket with the rtv then use grease on the other side of the gasket... like on the valve cover...i used white lithuim grease . I did the the oil pan side of the gasket with the rtv.... if you do both sides.... god help you taking the pan off the next time it needs to be removed... cause its a huge fight.... just a hint a long thin sharp razor knife to cut inside of the gasket its self is what i had to do.


Prop
Prop

Correct phil,

Leave the pan snug for 24 - 48 hours humidity and tempeture pending then tighten to haynes specs....dont over tigten or it willl deform the pan and leak agian..... plus the sealer will squish out before its had a chance to set up.
Prop

RTV is the LAST thing you want on a sump gasket!

Only people who are non-professional engine builders would even countenance such a thing.

Sorry Prop but RTV should NOT be used. Reason? When it hardens, it beads off into strings that find their way into the oil galleries.

I have lost count of the number of engines I have seen that have gone pop for this very reason!



You want a non-setting compound like Blue Hylomar or Wellseal.


On A-Series I use Hylomar on the cork gaskets and nothing on the neoprene.

I torque to spec and check. I don't bugger about with jacks or with letting things set (Hylomar doesn't set).

Never had either an A Series nor 1500 leak from the bottom end. That said, I do check the sump pan flanges for trueness on a piece of plate glass.
Deborah Evans

if done properly, with a little care and attention and time, no sealant of any description is necessary. The factory never used any - and not many leaked when new.
David Smith

Interesting deb.... thanks for the heads up, i wasnt aware ... so what causes the "stringing" to occour, the issue i have is i can never seperate the stuff its attached to.


Any idea what the usa version of "hymolar" is.... i cant recall seeing it in the auto stores

Prop
Prop

Prop,

Hylomar certainly is available in the USA. Have a look at: http://www.hylomar.co.uk/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=64&Itemid=55



The USA Main Distributor's number is: USA: +1 3173533202

Another Distributor over there is Lub-O-Seal:

http://www.hylomarsealant.com/index.html




The beading or stringing with RTV occurrs because it is a setting sealant - some of it will squeeze from the joint as it sets.

Great as a bathroom sealant, bloody atrocious as an automotive sealant!

The only time I would let RTV near any of my engines is to seal rocker covers, even THEN it would only be used on the outside of the gasket AFTER the rocker cover is torqued in place.
Deborah Evans

A uni lecturer went mental at me once for using the blue hylomar not the red (hermatite?!) claiming it wasnt designed for prolonged service submerged in oil.

This man, however, was a bit of a tempremental ar*e and I think a lot of his advice was based on the theory of I am right becuase I can shout loudest!

Never did have an issue with the blue stuff.

Cheers,
malcolm
M Le Chevalier

Malcolm,

It sounds like your lecturer was an ar*e then because the Blue Hylomar range (both M and PL32) are designed to be resistant to most Industrial fuels and lubricants.

Maybe he should have checked the Spec Sheets for it.

Where Hylomar ISN'T suitable is in High Temperature applications.

Where Red Hermatite excels is in High Temperature applications such as head gaskets.

I use it to seal the Wills Rings into my racing Climax heads.
Deborah Evans

When I was involved with assembling aero engines many years ago, if a gasket sealant was called for in joining magnesium and aluminium alloy castings then blue hylomar was used.
JB Anderson

Wasn't Blue Hylomar and Red Hermatite originally designed for use on the RR Merlin engine...? I seem to remember that fact from somewhere...
James Bilsland

Hylomar was certainly originally designed by the Rolls Royce Aero division.
Deborah Evans

Deb, I think I told him something along the lines of 'put your glasses on and read the packet, it says it will be fine' maybe thats why he got annoyed!

I never was much good at listening to peoples 'advice'!

Malcolm
M Le Chevalier

Prop, Permatex has a Hylomar product

Permatex 85249 Hylomar Universal Blue Racing Formula Gasket Dressing & Flange Sealant

Usually found in auto parts stores.




TS Dougherty

Oh I have seen that one.... i didnt realize it was undwe the permatex lable.... if they have it in the line up, then its good.
Prop

This thread was discussed between 08/05/2011 and 10/05/2011

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