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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Restoring a Bugeye Suspension is confusing.

I know and I'm sorry for posting ANOTHER suspension thread. But I'm still a novice, really confused and got a lot of questions. There's just so many different threads in the archive that I don't really know what's what any more. But I'm scouting for parts for my frogeye suspension.

The car has only run approximately 4400 miles but it has been run hard an wrecked at some point. I've got both front and back suspension off but the thing is that other then the bushings and wheel bearings I don't know what usually needs to be changed. Both front and rear shock absorbers seems to be in ok condition, I suppose also all the "links" should be replaced?

I'm going to fit front discs and anti-roll bar is there anything I should think off when buying the rest of the parts to make everything fit right?

But my main concern is that I would pretty much like to lower the whole car as low as it can get but still be able to enjoy it properly. How is the best way of doing this and how low can I go?

My front springs seems good, and the wishbones that came with the disc brakes has the "3/4 lowering blocks" fitted to them. But is shorter springs a better alternative? If so then how short and how hard should they be?

And how do I get about to lower the 1/4 elliptic system in the back? I fear that taking some of the leaves out would make it to soft? I heard something about flipping some of them from somewhere and I recall that peter may has some lowering wedges but how much closer to the ground does this bring the car?


Alex
Alexander Sorby Wigstrom

To lower the front properly you realy need a pair of lowered and slightly stiffer springs.
Magic midget or peter may can supply.
Then you can finetune with shims under the spring pan

For the rear I have heard that you need to do something with wedges to lower them and certainly not remove a leaf.
But only having 1/2eleptic cars some one with more knowledge will soon be along

As with the replacing every thing with rubber should be replaced with poly bushes and the drop links need only be done if they are worn or rotten solid
Onno Könemann

I've used Peter May's 400 lb lowered springs at the front and subsequently trimmed the ride height with shims as Onno mentiones, which allows you to get the ride height spot on equal,side to side. The quarter elliptics have 1 leaf out and also wedged. The rear have adjustable Armstrong dampers - the front double arm Westminster shocks. Polybushes in the joints and an 11/16" ARB. It runs on 185 tyres at 20PSI and the ride quality is very nice. Lowering the suspension you need to be careful with speed humps as my downpipe U clamp will testify, but rotating it to maximise clearance helps.
F Pollock

Using a modern O exhaust clamp reduces the noise made over speed bumps ;)
Onno Könemann

Onno,
if you mean these then I tried two different brands but cant them to remain tight on my Stainless stel exhaust

http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=10155

I need the thin band as I've worn through two normal U-clamps as the front of my car is so low because some lieing b*stard at a 'specialist expert' lied about how low the lower spring would drop the front
N Atkins

Which is why for road use I would suggest standard height springs and lowering spacers...

However I have successfully spaced springs the other way when carrying out cornerweight adjustments - you need to get some aluminium or steel spacers made up that sit at the bottom of the spring in the spring retaining pan and space the spring away from the pan - the same 1/4 rule applies upwards as well as down (1/8" spacers will give you 1/2" clearance)

JB
James B

Okay, thanks guys.

F.Pollock what length are your peter may springs then?
They seem like a better alternative than at Kims since they're 40lb stiffer.

Anyone of you have any pics. of the springs with spacers/shims fitted? Or maybe just a picture that show the ride height of your car?
Alexander Sorby Wigstrom

Oh and regarding the poly-bushes, can I buy a complete kit for late model cars and get everything I need with the roll bar and all, or will I have to buy a early model kit and buy the sway bar bits separately?
Alexander Sorby Wigstrom

Believe they were 8 1/4"
F Pollock

This thread was discussed between 08/11/2011 and 09/11/2011

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

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