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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Ride Height Square Wheel Arch

I have a 1977 r/b midget that has lowering blocks on the rear and lowering spacers on the spring pans on the front, said to return the car to the pre R/B ride height.
The ride height at the moment, measured from the center of the wheel to the wheel arch above is as follows:-
Front right 32.0 cm
Front left 33.5 cm
Rear right 22.3 cm
Rear left 23.3 cm

I've looked high and low unsuccessfully for any specs for ride height for any of the models and am wondering if anyone can help.
Tony Wood

Don't forget that RB cars have more metal at the front wheel arch to give the appearance of the wheel filling the wheel arch better. Rob
MG Moneypit

Tony,
there are a lot of variables to consider when doing comparisons especially when comparing r/b to later 1275. If you have a look in the archives you'll find lots of info (but with lots of those variables).

Another point of comparison I've used before is from bottom of door to ground, my car is around standard ride height, previously I've reported from centre of door to ground about 12.5" (32cm) (averaged over both sides) and there was a Motor road test review that had 12.75" (32cm) for bottom of door to ground.

I wouldn't worry about millimetre differences or the odd centimetre.
Nigel Atkins

Considering it takes 2.5 cm to make an inch so your off around 1/2 inch or so?

If the suspension is tired and been around a while I think that is with in range it maybe to point of needing an over haul check that the wings are a matching pair and not winkers a 1275 /1500 ... look at the turn signals that they are the same hieth... that happens on an occasion

Post some photos ... we would love to see

What is it like to drive suspension wise

Prop
1 Paper

lowering blocks on the rear and lowering spacers on the spring pans on the front, said to return the car to the pre R/B ride height.


Did I re-read that correctly... you have ""lowering"" devices to BRING the car back to its factory highth???


Now that's odd.... how much higher would the car sit if the lowering device were removed ???

I'm wondering if the car had been wrecked at some point and new panels installed over damaged frame parts


Id be tempted to remove the lowering devices and see what the cars lowering profile looksblikebat that point.

With wear and time... the ride hieth should go the other way (lower) not (higher)

Prop
1 Paper

Prop, it's a 1500 that has been lowered with blocks to get it back to the 1275 ride height.
GuyW

Adding about 6mms (3 washers?) under the front n/side (left)spring pan will bring the right rear up by about the amount needed and it should then sit pretty level all round.
GuyW

AhhhhAhhhhh

thanks guy
1 Paper

Guy... how did you deduce that he was converting a 1500 to a 1275 ride height?

I re-read several times and he makes no mention of a conversion of getting rid of the front bumpers

Do I need tin foil hat to keep you from reading my mind also

Guy, the Jedi midget repair master

Haha
1 Paper

Prop, just read the very first sentence from Tony.
GuyW

Tony - parallel to the ground is a good start. When I had finished my last rebuild (all new springs) I thought the rear was a little low, but I can't deny that the sill was parallel.


Nick and Cherry Scoop

Many thanks for all your comments, guys.
MG Moneypit - I didn't realise that the front wings were altered for the 1500, but of course thinking about it they had to do something to compensate for the increased ride height.
Thanks Nigel for the 12.5 inches to the bottom of the door. That gives me something to work with.
Prop - I'm sorry - I should have explained that its just an ordinary 1500 (1977) and I'm keeping the rubber (plastic) bumpers for now (for bumps) but decided to lower the suspension all round to help cope with some of the twisty roads that we have round here (like the D41 between La Londe-les Maures and Collobrieres as seen on streetview which is one of my favourites).
Guy - I must admit I'm not too worried about the slump to the right although now that I drive on the right the camber will accentuate the effect - although if I swop the springs left to right the car will then be level!
Nick - when the weather improves I'll get it out of the garage and take a photo to compare.
Tony Wood

Tony, somewhat surprisingly, swapping springs left to right doesn't necessarily alter the stance at all. My point was that the low rear discrepancy can often be adjusted out by attention to the diagonally opposite front corner.

But as you say it is only a small amount out and probably nothing worth worrying about.
GuyW

Tony,
not at the moment but another day if you wanted I could check for you the sill heights front and rear both sides to give a bit more of an idea.

For getting round the twisty roads, you're probably already aware of what I'm going to put but perhaps it might be a reminder. I'd also check the rubber bushes (including ARB links if modern made) for wear and the tightness of all nuts, bolts and fixings and all the dampers are well connected and oil topped up.

Tyres, regardless of tread left if they're old and/or little used could be hard and not performing at their best, also of course correct tyre pressure.

Perhaps one or more of your springs might be worn but a good few twisty roads tests will find that whilst enjoying the car.
Nigel Atkins

This thread was discussed between 24/02/2018 and 25/02/2018

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG Midget and Sprite Technical BBS is active now.