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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - rusty midget - healboard assembly

Hi all,

I've recently seen the light of the midget and brought myself a cheap project. The only issue I have currently is that the vehicle has had some seriously dubious repairs in the past (new patch welded over old rust etc.)
It's a 1978 1500 rubber bumper

Currently the rear offside sill/wheelarch area is non existant and the drivers door struggles to close. My parts list is growing longer and longer with every poke of the screwdriver and would just like some advice as to how the rear bulkhead/healboard is assembled.

From the moss catalog pictures and what I can work out the bulkhead is a triangle made by the inner & outer healboards and the floor pan. Inside this sits the jacking point, a strengthener panel and also by the looks of it a triangular blank. The inner sill welds to the assembly and jobs a good-one.

Currently I'm probably looking at replacing the inner cill, jacking point as a minimum, but the inner wheel arch will need a minor repair and probably a patch on the outer and inner heel board.

Is there any known grot trap there or respected repair procedure?

Many Thanks



Daniel Elias
D R S Elias

Daniel,
worth also looking at the spring hanger structure while you're in there. Done a similar repair to yours and we replaced the spring hanger. Its a nice big solid piece which will help you shape up the rest of the stuff in there. its '16' on the moss picture. But I got all my stuff from Sussex Classic car and their prices and phone support was excellent (Ashley Hinton parts too, bonus!)
hope that makes sense?!
-Craig
C Robertson

Thanks Craig,
I got the angle grinder in there today and found that the rear had two wings on it (both sides) and that the off side sill was 3 thick.
It also had large patches in the front footwells to cover up where old rust repairs had taken place.
Thankfully I found that rust hadn't taken hold as bad as I thought in the rear bulkhead, not extending much more inward of the inner arch join. I've ordered new fllor panels, sills (inner and outer), strengtheners, spring hangers, bulkghead repair sections etc.

Looks like I'm going to put a Peter May Engineering rear end on it to help keep costs down a little.

Next step is getting some pictures up on here!
D R S Elias

Daniel,
The Lindsay Porter restoration guide is pretty good with detailed advice on how to carry out these repairs:
This one:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Mg-Midget-Austin-Healey-Sprite-Guide-Lindsay-Porter-/270730897562?pt=UK_CarParts_Vehicles_Manuals_Litterature_ET&hash=item3f08d1a89a

You may find a cheaper copy than this or borrow a free copy from your local library who might have one.

When replacing sills, bulkhead etc it is important to maintain the alignment and to achieve this you shouldn't cut out too much all in one go - you need to do it piece by piece in the right order. This book helps explain the process.

Guy
Guy

Sounds like ours! That book that Guy recommends is good, certainly worth a read.

-C
C Robertson

thanks for all the replies people,

work has got on a little more, I've got the Haynes guide to purchase and DIY restoration by lindsay porter that I've been lent by a friend and felow spridget owner.

I've ordered up inner and outer healboards, floor, inner sill and outer sill for the offside along with all the appropriate filler panels. I've also brought new spring hangers etc along with new engine service bits (thermostat housing included) and a fibreglass front end to replace the rusted up old wings.

From what I can see it's all going to need to be supported, then the inner & outer healboards removed, which will allow access to the support structures inside it, which can be welded onto the new panels and those fitted.

I can then remove the rusty A pillar and outer healboard, which can be replaced and tacked at the top and lightly on the bottom to the old inner sill.

I can then remove the outer and inner sill, leaving the floor suspended. I can then weld in a new inner sill, after aligning the door shuts appropriately.

With the new inner sill in place I can then weld in the rest of the new front footwell and then follow with outer sill.

Finally the new floor can be welded up.

THEN

Fit fibreglass front end and fibreglass rear end... (more aligning door shuts).

followed by a complete damper overhaul (telescopics) and brake upgrade on the front, rebuild differential and re-grease all the grease nipples.

thank the lord the engine is sound.....
D R S Elias

That's about it Daniel.
Say it quickly and it doesn't sound too much does it!

Good luck! Keep us updated on your progress.

Guy

Aye, I will be very interested in updates, I am currently replacing every imaginable panel on my bodyshell and currently making slow work of the floors and figuring how best to replace the rear spring hanger reinforcement!

Is there an 'easy' way of replacing the spring hanger section? Best I could think of is to hack through the angled rear cockpit bulkhead as parts of the bulkhead probably needs replacing anyway.

What a mess! :-(

Malcolm
M Le Chevalier

Wow sounds like a nice list of things to do! Good look with that would be good to see pictures of your restoration in progress.
C Carter

Daniel,

This is a pic of the spring box area taken at a visit to Heritage - not sure if it will help you.

R.


richard boobier

Some pics to give you an idea of how it all goes together.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2203663/1967-mg-td
p p

it looks fairly straight forward really, just working out the best way to attack things without loosing structural integrity during the welding process.

I think I'm going to tack a couple of bars across the A & B pillars followed by alot of head scratching!
D R S Elias

This thread was discussed between 10/04/2011 and 24/04/2011

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