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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - So I ventured into the garage again !
I have a 1965 AH Sprite with the combined oil pressure and water temp gauge.
I dropped a rebuilt engine in the car last year and have had low oil pressure. Having had a few problems with getting good oil pressure and while trying to work out where I have pressure I disturbed the oil pressure gauge to block pipe, it promptly snapped !!! So first off - where can I get a a replacement flexible hose - in place of the pipe ? Second - is there an easy way of replacing both the water capillary thing and the oil presssure pipe with new electic/electronic things ? Thanks ! |
Malc Gilliver |
So I will chip in until someone else more knowledgeable pops along ! You can buy a one piece flexible nylon oil pressure pipe from most classic mini suppliers that I am sure would do the job . I think Peter May also does a braided full length one too. As for the temperature in my last car the capillary pipe broke so as temp solution I had an old mini temp gauge on the shelf that I rigged up on a separate gauge plinth and used an electric senser in the head in the usual place. I haven’t seen a dual gauge with electric temp sender unfortunately. |
Mike Fairclough |
As Mike suggests above I've recently bought a flexible nylon/plastic oil pipe from Mini Spares for a 58 AH Sprite which was a fraction of the cost of the original connectors and pipe but a little long but the excess tucked away nicely under the dash. |
Tim Lynam |
Thanks @Mike and @Tim. I can see the Minispares pipe being an option, as the sun is out i so want the car running - with a full fix in winter. I think I need to understand BSP fittings next ! |
Malc Gilliver |
Stainless steel. https://mgbhive.co.uk/product/glssmg1275-midget-1275-stainless-steel-oil-pressure-hose/ If the temp' gauge isn't working, given that they last a very long time, even at circa 120/130 quid new; -- I reckon it's still worth buying a new tradiional combined gauge. |
anamnesis |
@anamnesis Thanks for the stainless steel link The gauge works but I have always disliked the two hard connections to the engine. They always seem to be in the way. |
Malc Gilliver |
The temp capillary should be coiled where it connects to the engine. That makes it 'flexible', protects against vibration for one thing. Eventually, but after a very long time, they do leak. But mine lasted 30 plus years before that happened.
The oil line should be connected to the block via a rubber tube section. Mine is still the original rubber tube and clips, and the original hard copper line. Neither has ever leaked. Of course it helps if you are the long time owner. Previous owners may not have been so observant of the potential weaknesses. But I'd still argue both are pretty robust. And I prefer the copper to plastic. I've had plastic leak on a few other cars, and replaced them with solid copper. |
anamnesis |
"The temp capillary should be coiled where it connects to the engine" I read somewhere, the coils should be no less than 2" diameter. |
Philip Sellen |
@anamnesis
The oil line should be connected to the block via a rubber tube section. Mine is still the original rubber tube and clips, and the original hard copper line. Neither has ever leaked. My oil line was ( I think ) a hard copper pipe all the way from engine to gauge - the car is a 65 and on it's fourth engine I believe. @Philip Sellen Thanks - I do the same with the copper pipe on the slave cylinder. I have a couple of spare dashboards - I might yet be able to add a gauge and go fully electric on oil and water, but tbh I just want to enjoy the weather for a bit |
Malc Gilliver |
These are the parts for the rubber to copper oil line connection from a Moss Sprite and Midget parts book, 1275. Were 1098's different? I had a Capri with a solid copper line. I just coiled it off the block. |
anamnesis |
@anamnesis I think the 1098cc were different - I guess the oil line survived from the original engine. I'll pull the engine this weekend and then get all the bits together, once I can identity the thread - I guess bsp something I can find a place to either make up new or move electronic - which I would prefer to be honest |
Malc Gilliver |
New oil pressure pipe - block to gauge, new oil pipe - block banjo to oil filter - £40 cash the pair
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Malc Gilliver |
That's a good price for all that I reckon. |
anamnesis |
I was pretty happy, I had the banjo to filter done as the nut on the end of the pipe wouldn't turn |
Malc Gilliver |
This thread was discussed between 29/06/2024 and 13/07/2024
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