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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - solenoid problems?

Ive been trying to start my midget with a new starter motor today (the previous one broke up while in place) but although the solenoid seemed to engage the motor refused to turn, when it did in cut out after a few seconds anyway. I was wondering if this would indicate a faulty solenoid? or perhaps somthing else. (the long red wire running over the heater is an attempt at re-earthing it, to no avail). Is this a common problem? I have attached some pictures of the solenoid & starter motor. Any suggestions would be welcome as I am fed up with the sight of it and cannot think of any other solutions.

Ben

BH Harvey

Dont be disheartened Ben, plenty of us here will help you sort out whats wrong

OK

To test the solenoid simply Bridge the 2 large connections on the rear with a heavy duty jump lead or a big screw driver. Expect a few sparks :)

Assume the starter to be new but it could be the wrong one. Where did you purchase it from?

You can take it out and connect it direct to the battery again using jump leads. Black to the starter body and red to the rear connection Hold the starter firmly as it may try to spin about.

Photos did not load from you but if you are concerned about earths again use a large jump lead from battery neg to engine as a test.
Robert (Bob) Midget Turbo

Thanks. Tried it again (with a screwdriver across the solenoid) and it turned over well. However there is a green and white wire leading to the solenoid which is according to the haynes guide should connect but doesnt have anywhere to connect to. Sorry about all the questions, I recently bought the car in a three picture ebay auction and am still finding things out about it.
BH Harvey

If you have a green and white wire, I assume it is a 1500 engine? The green/white goes from the solenoid to the ignition coil to bypass the ballasted supply when starting the engine.

There should be a terminal on the solenoid which is only live when cranking. If not, you may have the wrong solenoid.
Dave O'Neill 2

Yes its a 1500. It doesnt have a coil just a 12v ballast. would this account for it being disconnected?
BH Harvey

Ben you can only load one photo per post here but it's quick and and ease so just do seperate posts for each photo

a good photo(s) can help no end here

Hi to forum and Spridget ownership

off-topic - get yourself a copy of the owners Handbook as it's fantastic for owner (or potential owners)

and as soon as you can do a full 36,000 mile service on your new car

back to Bob
Nigel Atkins

Think its loaded..


BH Harvey

Solenoid.


BH Harvey

It started!!!!
And then it started raining and so stopped.
Anyway there is a small fuel leak at the bottom of the LH float chamber. Is this a problem?
BH Harvey

Fuel leaking is always a problem but it just MIGHT be carb needle and seat or float in float bowl

Not moaning, just saying might be better to put front or rear rather than LH

I assume the rain stopped you and not the car

Sorry Ben 12v ballast and no coil is well beyond me

For general future ownership/restoration, I may be saying what you already know, if that bare wire was left by the previous owner it could suggest the quality of some of the previous work done on the car

Even though you have a Haynes the owners Handbook will serve you very well I know owners who had their cars for many years and could still do with reading a copy – (Ref 0058) http://www.mgocshop.co.uk/catalog/Online_Catalogue_Handbooks_5.html

Of course the owners Handbook nor the Haynes cover the modifications that may have been made to the cars since they were new by the owners over 30+ years

As soon as practical a full and proper 36,000 mile service will help no end along with regularly driving the car

A reasonable (can be cheap) digital camera (you can blow the pics up on your computer to study them with a mug of tea) and a note book are a great idea before you start disconnecting things, I wish I’d stuck to this many times before now

Just out of interest to me were your photos taken on a mobile phone?
Nigel Atkins

Carb was furthest from the front. Just found out that the fuel was dripping very close to the exhaust, which probably isnt good.
Being the 18th owner means that there are many strange things happening inside and out and I never met the previous owner so not sure about the quality of the work.
The pictures were taken on a good camera but I had to reduce file size -and thus quality- before I could upload them.
BH Harvey

Ben I'm not scolding just saying you're like me with your technical description not that I can, even remember the words, let alone spell them sometimes (oh, I'm not saying you've mispelt anything, not that I'd notice)

Just to help the more technical here who will be able to give you help you may need to be more specific in future - just an example, not moaning or criticising you just trying to simplify and speed things up for you in future – the carbs are front and rear (front nearest the rad, I think but check with someone else)

Viewing the car from the rear (on UK cars) the left side is near (est the kirb) side and right side is off-side, used for things like lights, body panels ect. - hence we have RHD Right Hand Drive cars in the UK (this is an international site)

If you already know these things then I apologise

For the camera, macro setting might be better for close detail shots – sorry if I sound condescending I don’t mean to be (and I hope macro is the correct word)

Coil and HT leads (and alternator) look new was the car running or driven by the previous owner?

Never fully trust any previous work (or some new parts and components), there’s no excuse for leaving a bare wire it either needs a connector and reconnecting or capping off properly
Nigel Atkins

o/T (off topic)

I didn't mean to incorrectly spell the word misspelt

As I (unually) disagreed with the way my wife suggested the spelling I researched on-line and found there is a debate and my initial spelling seemed correct

but then I done one of my usual typos and only put one s instead of two
Nigel Atkins

Thanks for the definition. New to the world of cars. It would be the rear float chamber which is leaking then.
Going through the cars history some owners spent a couple of thousands on welding and resprays (many years ago) then nothing for a few years etc. I bought it as running not driving.
Thanks for the handbook link as well.
BH Harvey

As I put check that I'm correct about carb positions

Running not driving suggest the engine runs not that the engine necessarily runs well then there's the rest of the car and components to consider - opposite of getting an MOT on it as the car must at least at the very time of the MOT be up to a certain standard but the engine (and other bits) could be shot but not relevant to the MOT

Don't let me dishearten you Spridgets are simple cars so getting them running and useable is a lot easier than modern cars

Engine running problems are usually just electrics or fuel problems

You can use the car with minor (non-safety related) problems (some believe you have to have problems and unreliability with a classic car - you don't, unless you want to)

You can run the cars as rolling restorations using the cars and restoring as you go along, which is good idea as using the cars will help you and the cars improve

Having the cars just sitting in the garage for long periods of time does the cars and you no good and just starting the engine and letting it run in the garage does nothing to help and maintain the rest of the car and vital components

Bodywork is usually the most expensive thing to overcome but again you can do bits as you use the car

Get the car running, do a full and proper 36,000 mile service and use it regularly (at least once or twice a fortnight) and you and your knowledge and driving of the car will improve significantly

Don't be tempted to upgrade or improve (unless it's a necessary part/component replacement) or do any cosmetic work until you used the car regularly for a full year thro all the seasons

I know very, (very) little about mechanics but over the last 20 years I've bought "classic" cars that have seen next to no use for years and ran them straight from purchase as everyday (or almost with some) cars all year round

If you buy and thoroughly learn (or at least read) the owners Handbook you will know more than some owners who have had their cars for many years

oh and there are other suppliers of the owners Handbook and many suppliers of parts

Personally I've found the MGOC to be just as good or bad as most suppliers and it's only a one-off fee of £5 to join (as a Member Only you do not have to take the annual subscription monthly magazines)

Parts lists/catalogues are jolly useful and show the order parts go together (rarely the drawings have errors)

see (FREE) - http://www.mgocspares.co.uk/acatalog/sec_midget.html

and paper printed to buy (note other free parts catalogues are available but I personally like books you can take to the car or sit and look at off the computer) (Ref 0016) - http://www.mgocshop.co.uk/catalog/Online_Catalogue_Parts_Lists_3.html

That's more or less the sum total of my knowledge
Nigel Atkins

This thread was discussed between 25/02/2011 and 26/02/2011

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

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