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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Solve a problem, find a new one

You will have read of my heart stopping moment when starting my newly rebuilt engine (massive oil leak). Well, having now rectified the fault and starte the engine, it seems to be OK (time will tell). So you can imagine how keen I was to drive it after nearly six months off the road. I should be so lucky. I now can't get my clutch to fully disengage!

Peter May fitted a 7.5 inch rally clutch. I was advised this needed a longer push rod at the slave cylinder and so I fitted an MG Metro one (it is 1/2 inch longer). Despite this I cannot engage gears with the engine running. Strangely, with the clutch pedal fully depressed and the car in gear, pushing the car does NOT turn the engine over so it must be a very close thing. I tried starting the engine while in gear and it is possible but the engine struggles a bit and in reverse actually wants to move the car backwards. The clutch 'bites' immediately any pressure is taken off the pedal.

I search the archives and this problem seems fairly common with bleeding the slave cylinder the main suggestion for sorting out the problem. However, I did not disconnect the hydrolics to the slave cylinder and it worked OK before the engine came out so why would it need bleeding now? Is there a systematic way to identify the source of the problem? Will it 'settle down' with use or is it a case of bleed the bleeding thing?

Chris (what fun it is to own a midget) Hasluck
Chris H (1970 Midget 1275)

what makes you think the Metro pushrod is the right length? I'd say it's likely it's 1/8" too short ! But do bleed first...
David Smith

David, you may be right. I was surprised that the Metro rod fitted so easily. Nonetheless, Daniel Stapleton's book states that the 1275 Midget pushrod is 3 inches while the Metro one is 3.5 inches so the latter should have worked. I do have a pushrod off an old gearbox to which someone has welded an extra bit so I could try that as well just to see if it works (or the old 7/16th nut trick).
Chris H (1970 Midget 1275)

you might be able to get some steel rod the same diameter as what what is currently in the push rod and just cut off the length you need to make the fit.. thats basicaly what rivergate did with there basic clutch assembly... a threaded rod.

Im just a bit curious, are you sure you dont need more "throw" in the slave clyinder... after all if the slave throw is 3" and you stick a differant size length push rod in place thats say 9" the throw is still only going to be 3" inside the slave cly, if you mount the slave cly on the rear axle housing and put the push rod it thats 5 feet long... the throw is still only going to be only 3 inches

Thats a back burner issue Im currently dealing with also in the back recesses of my mind.


Prop
Prop

I'm just about ready to give up on this job. I have spent all day on it with no success whatsoever!!!

I have eliminated all free play from the pedal and master cylinder. I have fitted a new master cylinder and slave. I have bled the system till I'm blue in the face (using a variety of recommended methods). The pushrod now begins to move the instant the pedal starts to move. I have replaced the push rod with the longest I have. At 3.75 inches it is 3/4 inch longer than standard. In fact there is no difference whether I use the MG Metro (3.5) or this one.

None of this makes the slightest different. The clutch is biting sufficiently at full pedal depression that I cannot engage gears although I can engage a gear and start the engine without moving.

I'm so frustrated by this. Any more suggestions? Have I got to buy an Ezibleed or similar?
Chris H (1970 Midget 1275)

Where are you Chris ?
Rob Newt

HI Rob

I'm in Wolverhampton.

Chris
Chris H (1970 Midget 1275)

Chris
Do you think you could drive it to Wall Heath, or I could come to you but not so many tools, let me know, hopefully I can help.
rob at cornishconnectionpasty dot co dot uk
Rob Newt

Rob

I cannot take the car on the road because the MOT expired last week (I was unable to solve this problem in time). I would welcome some help but no wish to be a nuisance. Email at chris dot hasluck at blue yonder dot co dot uk if you are prepared to come over here.

Thanks

Chris
Chris H (1970 Midget 1275)

Chris,
had the same thing with the 7.5" clutch, i welded a bit on the slave rod then just kept grinding it away until the clutch worked, from memory it wasn't that much longer perhaps 1/4"-1/8", i should really have just made it adjustable with a sleeve nut, it would have been easier.
Brad 1380

I would just like to publically thank Rob Newton for his help in sorting out my clutch problem. He came over, explained that he had experienced the same problem in the past, crawled under the car and, lo and behold, it was sorted. It just need an even longer push rod than I was using - and some fine tuning of that rod length.

Well done Rob, I am eternally grateful and now off suicide watch. This is further evidence of the power of this BB and the fellowship of Midget owners!
Chris H (1970 Midget 1275)

What length did you end up with? & well done Rob.
Brad 1380

No problem Chris,glad to help.
Sorry about the oil on the drive, I can feel another thread coming on !!
Brad
Probably ended up being about 94mm, max stroke I could get without putting any pressure on the clutch fingers.
Rob Newt

well done Rob
Nigel Atkins

This thread was discussed between 08/03/2011 and 14/03/2011

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

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