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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Speed Bleeders
There was a recent thread on clutch bleeding I think, which mentioned these. Either made by Goodridge or Russell. Demon Tweeks sell the former, Amazon the latter both want about £9-10 per valve which seems a bit steep for a Lancastrian. Anyone know where to buy them cheaper? Thanks. |
Jeremy MkIII |
They are made in the USA. They are also come either plated steel or stainless steel, the latter being more expensive. |
Daniel |
Don't know if Russell and Goodridge make them or sell them under license, but here is a link to, I think, the original Speed Bleeder: http://speedbleeder.com/ Prices seem about the same wherever you get them. |
Jack Orkin |
Jeremy, you can bleed the brakes by yourself with just a jar, couple of different methods that easily work rather than introduce another step to go wrong, one way check valves can ply up or pack in. . . . and you could get the jar and tubing for free, yes free! by recycling, at least from the jar! Free, there three frees for thee and not a nay in sight - oh bugger, well not til then. |
Nigel Atkins |
Thanks all, Nigel it's needed for the clutch bleeding as it won't bleed properly despite me installing a Lawrence/Guy remote bleeder in the engine compartment. I want to sit and pump the pedal while it bleeds into the master cylinder to see if that makes matters better. There's a relatively hard pedal but obviously still some air in there. |
Jeremy MkIII |
Fair enough Jeremy, let us know how you get on with please. Cheers. |
Nigel Atkins |
Have you ensured the slave cylinder piston is held fully back while you bleed it? The clutch can be a PITA otherwise. Rob |
MG Moneypit |
Nigel I have the Goodridge speed bleeders fitted to rear brake cylinders on one of my Frogeyes and will fit them to the other as and when. Recommended. I got mine from Demon Tweeks. Frogeye thread 3/8UNF x 24. Also put one on the remote clutch bleed again 3/8UNF x 24. Also on my daily driver but that is Metric thread. They are not a new invention by any means. Alan |
Alan Anstead |
Alan, thanks for the info, if you've found them reliable that's a very good recommendation. Bit late for me now as I've changed all four (well 6), even had to buy a 7mm combination spanner as I didn't have one for the rear, aptly named, bleeders. I was looking for you Saturday afternoon at the NEC as I wanted to borrow something off Gary's car to get me home as I'd been an idiot again in a totally ironic (and moronic) way. But that's all another story. |
Nigel Atkins |
Bought one from JJC Race & Rally. Rob I hope so. What's the best way to ensure it's fully depressed? |
Jeremy MkIII |
stuff a suitable sized socket in the end, push right home, hold in place with double elastic bands or gaffer tape. |
David Smith |
Jeremy, I used a wide throat welding clamp to push it right back and keep it there. Rob |
MG Moneypit |
Thanks David and Rob, I've tried cable ties but they didn't hold up so will break out a G clamp! |
Jeremy MkIII |
I use tyraps andJeremy: be aware where the air is trapped in the slave. It sits in the front left corner of the slave so lift the right wheel while you bleed the slave |
Flip Brühl |
That's a great tip Flip, thank you and will jack up the rear - is the right rear wheel for a RHD car? |
Jeremy MkIII |
Thinking on - are the set ups the same for both RHD and LHD or did BMC just lengthen the pipework for LHD export cars? [Horler ordered for Christmas :)] |
Jeremy MkIII |
right front see photo
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Flip Brühl |
Cheers Flip, don't where I got the idea of a rear wheel, I must have misread your original thread. |
Jeremy MkIII |
This thread was discussed between 10/12/2017 and 16/12/2017
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