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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Sprite Mk III clutch biting point high

Hi

1098 model. The clutch biting point is in the top 2" of pedal travel. All the issues I've ever had in my previous midget were to do with the dreaded bleeding and clutch biting too low.There is no noise from the bell housing and it selects gears ok.Is this something I should worry about? (I dont want to fix it if it ain't broken)
Thanks!
B M Le Page

Does your model have the adjustable push rods at the master cylinder? You could check and maybe give more clearance there?
GuyW

Hi Guy

Yes it has the adjustable push rods at the MC. I can try that. Most models haven't got that adjustment I think - is that its purpose- to adjust the biting point? Am I right that other setups are self adjusting?
B M Le Page

The adjustable pushrod was probably adapted. For the 1275, I carried a long pushrod from an Morris 1300 and when the pedal would go to the floor before disengaging, I would add the long pushrod at the slave and get another 10,000 or so miles out of the clutch. I have since adapted the Rivergate 5 speed, complete with its own quirks, advantaged and disadvantages.

Glenn Mallory

I was always doubtful about altering the pushrod at the slave, though I can see that for specific issues it can work. Essentially the design is that only about 1/3rd of the length of the slave is needed to operate the clutch through its full range. As it wears the slave piston moves down the bore, using a different section. Only when it starts to run out room to move inside the cylinder, does it actually begin to make a difference at the pedal. This is because the hydraulic system makes it self adjusting as the static amount of fluid changes.

Conversely, altering the master cylinder pushrod, on the versions that are adjustable, has an immediate effect to the bite point at the pedal, which is what Brendon is wanting.
GuyW

I was always doubtful about altering the pushrod at the slave, though I can see that for specific issues it can work. Essentially the design is that only about 1/3rd of the length of the slave is needed to operate the clutch through its full range. As it wears the slave piston moves up the bore, using a different section. Only when it starts to run out room to move inside the cylinder, does it actually begin to make a difference at the pedal. This is because the hydraulic system makes it self adjusting as the static amount of fluid changes.

Conversely, altering the master cylinder pushrod, on the versions that are adjustable, has an immediate effect to the bite point at the pedal, which is what Brendon is wanting.
GuyW

Sorry for double posting. I think I pressed refresh at the wrong moment!
GuyW

"Usually" a high biting point is a sign that the clutch plate is worn making the pressure plate fingers sit too high, also if it is this causing it you would notice that out on the road under load the clutch can be made to slip very easily by only 'just' depressing the clutch pedal a little--If you have both these and the clutch has gradually gone like this ,then the time has come for a new clutch-
William Revit

B.M.Le Page
Under normal circumstances Kent area of the Midget & Sprite Club is very active. So enthusiastic are we that we have two meetings a month. Mid week runs and tours at home and abroad are unfortunately not possible under the current situation. A vast amount of expertise to share and often hands on assistance. Discounts at National suppliers and care-of a member discounts at various motor factors around the county.

If you should need a 1098 clutch, to solve your woes, then try East Sussex Minor and save over £100 on a certain supplier's, where the grass won't grow, catalogue price.
Alan Anstead

Gee whizz. These comments are so helpful and interesting. From has been said I'm reluctant to move away from the standard setup which may just disguise the problem for a little while. I was hoping to get a few miles out of her during summer before doing a complete strip down engine and gearbox out etc when I can replace the clutch. From what William (from Tasmania!) said I'll try her out on the road and then if it slips as badly as he said she will have go up on blocks :-(.

Also I've been wondering which club to join and Alan has solved that problem.I used to be a member of an MG club but as a Sprite owner now I need to identify with the marque!
B M Le Page

I wasn't suggesting moving away from the standard setup. Just saying that if yours does have the adjustsable setting rod a th master cylinder, then check that the adjustment there is within specification. If its too tight, then it could be disengaging the clutch at too high a pedal position for comfort.
GuyW

Sorry Guy I meant I would try the adjustment on the Master cylinder push rod first which I did and it helped a bit but not enough. I didnt want to try doing something with the push rod at the slave as was also suggested as I felt that I would rather stick with the original parts.

However after doing the MC adjustment I decided to look more closely. The MC seemed clean and functional. The bleed screw on the slave was seized. Off came the slave to find that inside was mostly grunge. The DOP had decided to replace the Clevis pin with a nut and bolt which he/she did up nice and tight. Aaargh. So all cleaned up the seals were good I had a spare slave Clevis pin. So after cutting the slot in the top bolt for the easy removal of the slave, unseized the bleed screw, bled the clutch in 15min on my own (is there a prize?) I have beautiful slick Midget gears.

Whoohoo.


Thanks for everyone's support. Brendon
B M Le Page

The new and improved replacement for the slave cylinder push rod clevis pin.

Can you believe it.


B M Le Page

That's good to hear, Brendon. Great job!
GuyW

This thread was discussed between 12/06/2020 and 18/06/2020

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