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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Starter problems
I just started getting my Midge out of hiberation. Tried to start it (I know, I know, I should had done it over the winter) and all I get is a whirring starter. I'm guessing it's not engaging with the fly wheel. Is there any simple way to check this out without the pain of removing it (which from memory requires me to remove the dizzy - or that an MGB?). Cheers. |
JeffH |
Tried using a persuading device? Like a big hammer? :-) |
Eddy Veuger |
Done that ;) Any other ideas? And do I need to remove the dizzy to get to the starter??? |
JeffH |
It does sound like the pinion is sticking. Make sure you mark the dissy before removing it. |
Dave O'Neill 2 |
If an A series what about removing the metal can fitted to the bellhousing covering the Bendix. IIRC 3 screws hold it on. Most likely the Bendix has just stuck and needs to be freed. Saying that I have never had the need to remove the can and so not tried it in situ. Others may be able to comment. |
David Billington |
If it's a 1275 you need to remove the dizzy to get the starter motor out. Not a big job though, mark it like dave says, just 1 retaining bolt (on the clamp) and it's out. |
Eddy Veuger |
David in situ the can is very hard to reach and by far the easiest method is simply marking the dizzy and taking it out. Jeff the bendix seems likely to be sticking The best treatment is to wash the gear inside and outside, with a solvent then allow it to dry, inside I use petrol as a cleaning agent even though it isn't health and safety friendly. Carb Cleaner or Brake Parts aerosol can be relied on too. When the inner gearway inside the bendix is clean do not be tempted to oil it, oil is invariably what causes them to gum up in he first place the gear track is cut into phosphor bronze and should be self lubricating, a sprinkle of graphite powder is as much of a lubricating as it needs, locksmiths can supply a small quantity of graphite powder. HTH |
Bill sdgpm |
I've never needed to remove the distributor on my 1275 to pull the starter. I just slowly turn & adjust until I can slide it out through the triangular opening in the wheel well. I also don't have to jack up the car, I do it all over the fender. I learned how to do this in college when I was too broke to buy a good starter & had a supply of used ones. |
SK Kowznofski |
It is slightly easier on LHD models, due to the lack of steering column on that side of the engine. |
Dave O'Neill 2 |
Just so I can sound like superman, I never remove the dizzy to do the starter. One spanner on the back side of the bolts, and one wrench, one long socket extension, and a socket poked through the triangle behind the LH wheel on full LH lock undoes the other side of the bolts. Then put your hand through the triangle, pull the starter off, and lower it down through the chassis. After I had 2 starters blow in a matter of weeks I learned to do this in <20 minutes. Of course it helps that I am skinny as a rake and have big long arms to reach this stuff! Your problem does sound like a bendix issue. Just get it out and give it a REALLY good clean (NOT LUBE!). Run the bendix gear up and down the shaft lots of times as you will be surprised how much crap gets stuck between it and the shaft. |
Rich Amos (1 Sprite 1 Midget!) |
On a 1500 you don't have to remove the distributor but you do need to remove the fuel pump. Nice, eh? |
Clive Reddin |
This thread was discussed between 22/02/2009 and 23/02/2009
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