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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Starting A Car After A Decade

Hi Guys

This is not a request for knowledge on a Spridget but general starting a old car which hasn't moved for years!

A friend of mine owns a early 50's Minor which has been in his family since new.

It had a full restoration in the early 2000's but since then it has sat in a garage slowly rusting away. Generally it isn't bad apart from a shot boot lid and what appears to be localized rust on the edges of the rear sills.

I would like to fire it up to try and get him interested in it again and to save it from the slow death it's currently experiencing :(

Can you all give me some pointers on firing up a car that has been asleep for a decade?

Thanks

Rylan
R Williams

main problem is stale fuel; if you don't want to drain the tank and flush clean the fuel line, rig up a small external fuel supply such as a cleaned out washing -up liquid bottle, cut the bottom off, tape it upside down to a bonnet hinge, bit of tube to mate up with the carb feed. Clean the plugs and points, new battery and she should fire up.
David Smith

When you have the plugs out a squirt of diesel or WD40 down the bores wouldn't go a miss. Let it soak in overnight,then crank it over by hand to get the bores & rings lubricated prior to firing up. It will cause some smoke intially.
Ed H

G'day
Changing the oil wouldn't hurt also
Cheers
R W Bowers

Do you just want to start it, as in the title question ? Or are you wanting to drive it?
If the latter, then the list of things to do is rather longer! But not wanting to give a lot of un-asked for information.
Guy W

Agreed with all the above... and what Guy has to say.

Very important to crank over by hand as if pistons have seized you are going to cause serious damage trying to fire her up. Just stick it in top gear and push it for 30 yds.

Best to have the plugs out as mentioned... and get some lube in there.

You will almost certainly need a new battery.

Temporary gravitiy fed fuel source is a very good idea.

Check your ignition - and change points and condeser if you are going to drive it after.

After she's fired up and running up to temp. I'd immediately change the oil whilst its hot. I think this is very important.

The rest is just general servicing... which only Nigel can help you with.

Enjoy it.!
C L Carter

personally I'd suggest not changing CB points unless really necessary as new ones could be poorly made, clean up the existing - and lube the points cam and oil the dissy

and don't change the condensor as it's unlikely to need changing and again new ones could be of poor quality

if you have to get things like this go to somewhere good like the Dristributor Doctor - http://www.distributordoctor.com/

use a good quality battery that has been checked for electrolyte level and is fully charged not a battery that is just spare, a poor battery could make starting a lot more difficult than it need be or even prevent starting

the suggestions already given I'd follow

even for just starting a lot more parts, components and work may be required and as Guy has rightly put to actually drive the car certainly a lot more checks maybe required and probably a lot more parts, components and work

after 12 years the tyres will need changing for road use regardless of the tread on them - http://www.carbibles.com/tyre_bible.html

good idea to get it fired up but also try to get it up to running temperature before turning off to check fuel and coolant systems and how it runs

good luck
Nigel Atkins

What Guy and Christian say worked for me. The hand turning was the worst bit, mine stuck and I had to soak through spark plug holes. (It was on jack stands) Used WD40 and mollys cutting lanolin in the offending pot till free. Works OK now (after further Guy advice on ignition).
Dave Squire - Notts

I disagree with Nigel on this the ignition - but he is right that a lot of modern parts are of inferior quality. But if youre points aren't flat (and I doubt they are) then filing them flat is an ar*e and only lasts so long... yes the new ones will never be as good as the old lucas ones... but they cost £2 and even if you change them as a matter of course every year - who cares. (I always have a spare set in the boot too - including the original ones)

Like I said, only important if you are going to drive her afterwards... not so for starting.
C L Carter

Agree with guy...

But then agian...it sounds like its been inside so its not like its been under a tarp under a tree in a cow field...so really common scence is your best friend...oil, coolent, lubes and fluids for all the various componets....hoses, belts, a good look at suspension rubber and esp the wiring harness...id figure a good couple days and she will be a purring little driver if your lucky granted your looking at a $300 to $500 dollar bill....but im sure it will be worth it
Prop and the Blackhole Midget

If it's an early Moggie, there should be a stating handle to hand crank it.
Pete Ottewell

I would advise 2 lists. One of essentials and one of optional / desirables.
For an engine start the essentials to me would be to check oil and coolant levels, get fresh fuel into it, and to hand crank to check that it isn't seized. Oh, and charge the battery.That is all l would bother with before giving it a try. lf it doesn't fire up then go through a logical sequence of checking and replacements as others have suggested. But being impatient l wouldn't do any of those things unless l knew there was a problem.
Once started and warmed up, l would then do an oil and filter change.

Before going on the road l would do a full lube, and replace brake and clutch fluids., and check that brake system seals were all ok. I would check tyres carefully but only replace them if the car is then going to be used on the roads, beyond an initial test drive. Also at this stage l would do a standard 12K service as per handbook (and Nigel) as a preparation for an MOT.
Guy W

good point about the starting handle, if it's still with the car it'll be very useful

I think if you getting it statred you'll want to see how it runs if not drive so it's not just a case of starting it but keeping it running which may require a bit more effort and possibly cleaning, lubing and new parts

as Christian the CB point aren't expensive points tend to need restting after being fitted or attend to trouble is your not quite sure when until they play up

the condensor I'd really not change unless I had to

certainly enquire for other list before considering driving it

I had a Minor for a few days that was only ever driven 5-10 miles infrequently, having checked everything I could before I drove it and being used to old cars and allowing for its lack of use the braking was still a revalation and not in a good way - I later took it for a 40 mile round trip over to my mates but 15 miles I had front wheel and brake issues, I let it cool down and finish my journey to my mate's as it was now nearerst, we had a look at things and decided not to touch anything, it cooled down and later I drove it home but 15 miles in again I got the same issues, so stopped to let it cool down then drove the remaining 5 miles

short journeys don't help any cars and wont highlight all problems
Nigel Atkins

Hi Guys

I only want to get the engine to run so that it may get him motivated to get the car back on the road again.

Basically I need to try to turn it over by hand without the plugs before I do anything else
R Williams

"Hi Guys

I only want to get the engine to run...."

yep, I read that in your first post. Dunno about the rest of 'em. If it has a starting handle, that's a good call to turn it over by hand with.
David Smith

As an ex Moggy owner of the 70s I advise:
Put it in neutral, put the starting handle in and see if it turns the engine. The handle will only turn it in the direction the engine runs (clockwise on A series engines - I wonder why I remember that --- 8£? etc.). Do not turn on the ignition / make sure the battery is disconnected before you do this to avoid any complications. If it turns a full turn on the handle the engine is free and you can take the rest from there with a charged battery.
If it doesn't you need to free the engine up so it turns by hand before using the starter as the starter may break something inside if the engine jamms.
So yes.
(And be careful not to hurt your hand or face by falling if the starting handle breaks if its old and weakened or the engine turns so easily through part of the cycle you slip - we all did that).
(There is no starting handle on a 1500 midget so I had to turn the main shaft pully nut from under the car, thats progress in the 70's for you).
Then follow the lubricating advice fairly swiftly as the wear on the engine during this time of getting it running is significant.
Good luck.
Dave Squire - Notts

thanks all

Following another brief look today in a gloomy garage and a chat. It appears the engine may have been changed when it had a restoration.

It has a dynamo and a single carb setup on the passenger side. I am guessing it could be a minor engine? The first thing I will do is push it out into the sun to see what else can be discovered.

If it is free, what is the maximum amount of time you would recommend to run the engine without causing damage?

@David Smith

I just wanted to make it clear at this stage I just want to get the engine to start to try and get him motivated again :) I have enough escapades with my Midget to deal with without a moggie to make things more difficult!
R Williams

Just getting it to fire up and rev for a few minutes is a great feeling and good motivator! Also find time to go and wander round a classic car show, there are lots of local ones around at this time of year.

So long as it turns freely, has oil and a bit of fresh fuel a couple of minutes running will do no harm - even with no water in it..
Engine sounds normal for a Moggie. When it is out in the daylight check the engine number and someone here will tell you the engine capacity, age etc.

As "It had a full restoration in the early 2000's but since then it has sat in a garage" , chances are then that the engine was done then too and is in ok condition, ready to go!
Guy W

I'm surprised no one has mentioned oil pressure - after a lenghly period of inactivity oil may have drained from the pump and can take ages to prime itself again. If it's free on the starting handle and with the plugs out and oiled bores, I would whizz it round with the ignition on (out of gear obviously) in bursts of no more than 10 revolutions at a time - till the green light goes out. If you start it up dry you will invariably get death rattle which is the crank having 'roulements baisee' for breakfast.
F Pollock

UPDATE

The only plate I could find on the engine had the following: EP69348, there was also AH below it?

Can anyone shed any light on what this means, according to the DVLA it is a 950cc engine. The car was registered in 1955.

Thanks guys
R Williams

if you can get an engine block number that might help someone here to identify it

this is often used, I don't know its accuracy - http://www.mgcars.org.uk/mgccz/technic/codeseng.pdf

this might also help - http://www.calverst.com/articles/Eng-engine-Identification_data.htm

Nigel Atkins

This thread was discussed between 30/08/2012 and 02/09/2012

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