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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Stub axles and steering

So its about time I looked at refurbing my front end. I'm going to have it all apart this weekend and clean it up and see what needs replacing. I'm guessing both track rod ends, one bearing (one was done last year apparently). Will replace suspension bushes to poly, and check the lever arms are okay. Will check the brakes, and maybe change the hoses to SS.

Would anyone recommend replacing or upgrading anything else. Don't have the money to change the lever arms for anything else. But are there and special track rod ends people would get? Or Anti roll bar linkages? Would you change the springs themselves or do you think they will be fine cleaned up and painted?



C L Carter

You have covered it all - except for the two places most likely to have wear in them: the outer fulcrum pin/ wishbone bushes and the king pin swivel bushes.
In my experience the TREs on these cars seem to last a long time. At least the originals fitted with a grease nipple do !
Guy

Yeah, I haven't seen any grease nipple ones available for the 1500... can anyone point me to them?

I'm praying to god the king pin bushes are okay. I've heard that its an expensive job... If these are gone, I think I'll go with the MGOC replacement exchange for the whole hub... I think its £45 each side... which is cheaper than the reamer!

As for the fulcrum pin wishbone bushes... are these phozzy bronze? I can't see any in the moss catalogue for sale.. they seem to be integral to the wishbone.

Thanks for the heads up.

C
C L Carter

if the ARB drop links are original or in good condition then don't change them as present stock, as with a lot of rubber products, seem to be very poor

the original ones were very long lasting - I learnt this from a Spridget expert after I'd changed mine, the replacement ones I put on had split rubbers after only 18 months

yes greasing those 6 nipples on the front is very important, I think every 3 months and just before the MoT is enough (Driver's Handbook says every 6 months/6,000 miles but was refering to new cars not 30 years old)

as well as considering changing to s/s hoses consider a full change of brake fluid, adjust rear brakes if required and grease both handbrake nipples (if you have them on a 1500?) - details in the Driver's Handbook :)

a drop of oil on the handbrake rods joints doesn't hurt too

anything you can get at whilst you're there clean, inspect for condition and protect
Nigel Atkins

+1 for check wishbone/kingpin pivot and kingpin/stub pivots. Have fun with your cotter pins! ;-)

Cheers,
Malcolm
Malcolm Le Chevalier

I think that the best advice is not to go changing things on a whim. Check all of the moving parts on the front suspension very carefully to identify what is and isn't worn. It is very easy indeed to rack up some big costs unnecessarily if you just assume that components are worn. I know this sounds obvious but it is important to look at each component very closely, especially if you are on a tight budget.

The easiest way I find is to lift the car securely on jacks and then test each component in turn, placing a finger across the two components joined by the joint and feeling for movement as you rock the wheel both top to bottom (12 o'clock / 6) and side to side (3 /9). You will almost certainly have some slack movement. The trick is to identify where precisely the greatest amount of movement is occurring.

Check for wheel bearing,(disc /swivel hub); king pin (Hub/ trunnion); and bottom fulcrum pin (King pin / wishbone. Check also for vertical movement on the king pin - this can be adjusted by use of shims on the king pin.
Guy

Guy has a good point, careful with those fingers though and a bit of play in some places is usual and in others isn't good so report back for advice (not from me on mechanical matters you'll be glad to hear)

a lot of servicing work boils down to cleaning and/or lubricating and protecting and if you keep on top of it many parts and compoments can be very, very long lasting

obviously keeping on top of safety elements such as brakes, steering, wheels and tyres is very important so you are to be applauded - it will also make driving the car better and more fun so a win, win
Nigel Atkins

Thanks chaps.

I'll get have an inspection. I like to take the lot apart, just to see what its like, how its made and how it works. (thats just me). But don't worry I won't replace anything unless its necessary.

Don't worry Malcom. I'm good with cotter pins. Our Fire engine has about a million split pins!

Guy, when you rock up and down ... and then side to side... will one direction tell you something the other doesn't? Presumably... left to right will tell you TRE... and up and down bearing/wishbone/susp?

C

C L Carter

Hi Christian.

A note about front wheel bearings. Have you seen the threads discussing this?

In brief. The good ones are expensive. Circa £100 per side, for inner and outer combined.

The cheap ones less than 25 quid combined.

The good ones fit properly, and will pass an MOT.

The cheap ones, might/probably won't fit properly, and might/probably won't pass and MOT.

If you aren't aware of this, follow this link and all will become clear to you.

http://www.mgexperience.net/article/mg-midget-wheel-bearings.html

In short, don't remove a front hub, -- unless you are certain it's bearing is knackered, -- as it will be expensive to replace the bearing(s) if you do knacker it in the process of removal.

This is because, in order to remove the front hub, you "might" have to split the inner bearing in the process. This will likely damage the bearing, and cause you to replace it, even if it was ok prior to removal.

Lawrence Slater

Thanks L, noted.

I have got a spare wheel bearing in my kit of bits that came with the car. Its an SKF... so its good if I need it.

My general rule with Wheel bearings is, change them when a) its causing the steering wheel to judder or b) when the MOT man says its about time.

C

C L Carter

A quick addendum to Lawrences post. I replaced the bearings in my hubs and had heard the inner bearing spilt when pulling the hubs.

I bought a very cheap hub puller (the Draper universal hub pullers for £6 on ebay) and didnt used gently both hubs came off without breaking the bearings.

Don't know if it was luck or what but worth mentioning I feel!

I sense another bearings thread rearing its ugly head... ha ha

Cheers,
Malcolm
Malcolm Le Chevalier

Thanks Malcolm.

If it comes to it, I think I'll make a puller for the job. I like to a have a nice solid tools with 360 support for pulling bearings and there's nothing like making your own special tools =]

C L Carter

Tell you what Christian. I'm going to be getting around to stripping the arm from my nearside frontline suspension soon ish.

You might remember we talked about it when you collected the wheels. I believe there is a phospher bronze bush worn/wearing out in there, and will have to get one made as fl don't do spares. I might commision you if I can't find a local spare or anyone with the gear to do it.:)
Lawrence Slater

Lawrence,
I have the early frontline supension on my car & would be interested in hearing how you get one with the repairs, any chance of posting info / photos when you do the job.

Thanks, Alan.
Alan Cotterill (1972 standard 1275 )

Cotters were mentioned above... he wasn't referring to split pins, but the tapered pins that lock the kingpins to the lower trunnions. Apparently they can be a swine to remove. Never been there myself, just passing on what I've read.

Best,

-:G:-
Gryf Ketcherside

Alan, I will do indeed. I intend to take a look in the next week or so. Intend, being the key word there. :)

Gryf.
I find the easiest way to remove a stuck cotter pin in the bottom of the kin pin, is grind the protruduing threaded bit flat/flush, and then use a punch with a decent hammer.

Easiest if you have it off the car of course, but not so bad when still on the car, as long as you get it high enough to get underneath for a good heavy blow. Toffee hammer type of hits, don't usually work.

But sometimes they come out very easily. I think it depends on how vigerously they have been jammed in place. When I first fitted mine years ago, I was a bit over the top in making sure the cotter went well in. Then subsequently I realised it's not neccessary to go bonkers with this. I tap it in so it's tight, but not so tight that it distorts under hammer blows. The nut holds it in place, and I round the end of the thread, so that if it did come loose, it couldn't rattle off. Some come with a nyloc, which I prefer.

Lawrence Slater

One thing's for sure - I've never been able to remove a cotter pin without damaging it, so get yourself some new ones before you start. But quite honestly if there is no free play, my advise is leave the bottom joint alone.
Mike Howlett

This thread was discussed between 08/01/2012 and 09/01/2012

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

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