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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Sump gasket - trim or no trim?
What is the correct way of fitting the sump gasket where it is in contact with the front and rear "C" seals? I think that with the old cork ones the ends of the gasket overlapped the ends of the seal, which compressed into shape as the sump was tightened down But with the replacement neoprene seals is this the same, or should the gaskets be trimmed against the edge of the shaped neoprene seal rather than overlapping it? Guy |
Guy Weller |
I didn't know of the neoprene seals until now Sorry not really answering your question but for info (With cork seals be very wary about trimming) I recent got (again) a sump gasket set with straight cork seals that I ignore and instead use a pre-shaped cork seal and hard plastic seal I know in some places the 14 oval washers are fiddly to keep in line and the quater by half inch screws are difficult to torque up to the recommended 30lbs/ft and some work loose so perhaps use thread lock BTW hard plastic seal (TAM 1089) is marked up as rear seal anyone know if that's correct oh, and make sure sump pan edges are flat |
Nigel Atkins |
Thanks Nigel, Maybe they are not neoprene, but it is some such material. I wouldn't call it a hard plastic though, its sort of rubbery. Supplied by Moss - TAM 1089 for the rear and TAM 1171 for the front. I never trimmed the cork seals - the whole idea of the cork was that it was slightly oversize so that when compressed along its length it would fatten and provide the effective seal. They worked and I liked them! I think I will fit the sump gaskets with the ends left overlapping the C seals, as was the way with cork ones. I usually put the sump screws in with a smear of red Haemetite on the threads it stops them working loose and adds to effective sealing! |
Guy Weller |
I ditched the rubber / hard plastic seals and reverted to good ol' cork. No leaks since. And overlapped the gasket over the cork. |
Alex G Matla |
You may have a point about sticking with cork What do others think cork or platic/rubbery seals? Until I changed my sump seals and gasket I didn't have a leak First time I put (straight) cork in but trimmed it/them as per Haynes |
Nigel Atkins |
went with cork fitted them in with some contact adhesive and trimmed them so they stick out 5mm and slowly tightend it as evenly as posible. |
Onno Könemann |
I had just ordered them from Moss. Didn't realise until they arrived that they wouldn't be cork. So at the moment I have no alternative - its plastic or nothing! I must be old, I just hate it when they stop producing perfectly good items that have served well for years and replace it with a "modern equivalent" which is no where near as good. Just went to Halfords to get a tube of that nice gooey red Hermetite. The "yoof" didn't know what I was on about. Replaced now with some fancy "Flange Sealant at twice the price! |
Guy Weller |
Twice now I've got from MGOC a sump gasket set and rear and front seals as three seperate items as per their catologue items 107, 108 and 109 here - http://www.mgocspares.co.uk/acatalog/MGOC_Spares_1275_157.html#topanch Only to find the gasket set already includes two (straight) cork seals and the (extrainious) seals well ones semi-circle cork and the other plastic I'm still not convince which is for front (cork or plastic) Guy if you want you can have the two straight cork seals for free just email me your address and I'll post them to you PS I'm told by racing types that the new sealants are very good but like the old stuff there's so many types to chose from howda know which to use for what |
Nigel Atkins |
Thanks for the very kind offer of the cork seals Nigel, but I need to get this car back on the road tomorrow so I will just use the ones that I now have. Guy |
Guy Weller |
Fair enough Guy Just remembered I didn't put my email adress too Let us know how you get on with them and if they leak too |
Nigel Atkins |
Nigel Are you sure the torque figure for sump bolts is 30lbs/ft, that sounds rather high for 1/4 bolts, and it would compress the gasket excessively...... maybe its really 30lbs/inches ? Ian |
Ian Webb '73 GAN5 |
Should be 6! Guy |
Guy Weller |
Very sorry I'm wrong my poor memory yes Haynes says 6 lbs/ft (I must try and remember not to use my memory) Mind you they will work loose unless you thread lock them (where did 30 enter my head?) |
Nigel Atkins |
The sump bolts originally had a shakeproof washer in between the bolt head and the oval washer. With these fitted I have never had a sump bolt work loose - is this a common problem? |
Richard Wale |
I have never had a sump bolt come loose either? Don't use a torque wrench simply use correct spanner and good practice. What have others found? |
Bob Turbo Midget England |
No, I have not had one come loose. As Bob says, use of the correct spanner and appropriate effort is as good as a measured torque. Traditional spanners have evolved and been engineered to give the correct degree of "tightness" on their respective bolt / nut sizes when used correctly. Guy |
Guy Weller |
It's worth going around them again after a week or two. You'll be surprised how much retightening you can do after a few heat cycles. |
F Pollock |
spanner? I was using quarter inch square drive handle, extention bar and socket I used new screws and oval washers (some where fiddly to get straight) mind you it was the time when I'd hurt my shoulder and my two jacks failed on me (one had been lent out to a mate who used it to level off an RSJ) so I went to buy a third jack and new and better axle stands Of course my shoulder didn't play up until I was under the car didn't see shakeproofs on any diagrams but sounds a good idea, I need thread lock for other screws so might as well carry on using it for sump screws without either they do work loose on my car at least |
Nigel Atkins |
had the car on ramps this afternoon clearing drain points (finally after pro waxoyling many weeks ago) looked at leaking sump the leak is from the front so would be at the cork seal (I think) |
Nigel Atkins |
This thread was discussed between 25/08/2010 and 30/08/2010
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