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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Taking Everything apart

Ok so winter is definitely here so I plan on spending as much time as possible making the 1500 midget bulletproof for next summer. I have stripped the exhaust manifold and inlet manifold off the engine as I am fitting a weber carb, while these are off I have drained the coolent system and flushed it and am going to replace both engine mounts. However when the car was running sat in neutral you could here a grinding noise once the clutch was pressed the noise went away so I am assuming this is gear box related. Is it worth going the extra step and pulling the engine and gearbox out? Ideally think it might be a bearing in the gearbox. I am fairly comfortable with most mechanical jobs but dont think I am up to a gear box rebuild. Does anyone know a company in the north that can rebuild it and if so what a ballpark figure would be?
C Carter

Gearbox might be right but did you notice any engine speed change when you pressed the clutch? It would be a good idea to check the crankshaft end float before you pull the engine as you may have dropped a thrust washer.

I was a bit hesitant about stripping a gearbox the first time but, to be honest, they're not that bad!! Just watch out for the syncro locating balls which shoot off in all directions!! Getting them back in is a bit of a challenge also....

If all else fails you can take the bits to someone to reassemble..... I guess you will be looking at about 400 - 500 to refurb depending on how many bits are needed.

Have a go and good luck

MGmike

M McAndrew

webber-- does that mean my carbs were no good?
Mick - still wiring!!

Hi Mick well got a deal I couldnt refuse on a weber with manifold so after fitting your carbs that did run with the engine but still not perfect I have now decided to fit the weber. I am just not sure if I want to remove the engine and gearbox to fix the gearbox noise?
C Carter

Might try bleeding the clutch, and check that the peddke assembly is okay... The clevis pin isnt worn... As well as the fork is opreating properly

Prop
Prop

Peddle assembly seems fine and all gears select ok just the grinding noise which when in neutral you can here but once you engage to clutch it disappears so I am led to believe it is a bearing either in the gearbox or possibly the cluth release bearing?
C Carter

In neutral there are very few bearings of note moving in the box and they tend to whine!
And before you all get started.... I know one man's grind may be another man's whine.....

But back to the point..
The input shaft and laygear bearings will be the most likely cause. My bet would be Laygear but only if it isn't the clutch release bearing which is my first choice to investigate further.

MGmike
M McAndrew

>>I have drained the coolent system and flushed it<<

here's what I recommend for good cooling and heating (some cold days in summer and warm days in winter)

Before starting consider if the water pump and heater fan motor need replacing and (if not already fitted) whether to install an electric fan as this would dovetail in with the work below

Also you may want to check or change the hoses, thermostat, heater valve/tap, fan belt and filler pressure cap

procedure:
a) clean the whole system with something like Bars Flush Cooling System Cleaner

b) drain the whole system - engine block, heater matrix and radiator

c) get the radiator and heater matrix out of the car to give them a good shake at the same time as flushing and back flushing
· flush clean water through each of the three until water runs out thoroughly clean
· reverse flush each of the three until water runs out thoroughly clean
· final flush through each of the three until water runs out thoroughly clean

d) gently brush clean both sides of the radiator fins

e) gently brush clean the heater matrix and renew the seals and foam around the heater matrix and heater box case

f) refill with the correct coolant mixture but bear in mind tap water isn’t always the best water to use, distilled would be better

g) follow the refill instructions from the owners Handbook to avoid getting air locks or ‘hotspots’ that could cause overheating of the engine

I'd do a full 36k-mile service plus other bits, unless you know for certain they've been done recently - including g/box oil change and clutch fluid change (and possibly flexihose) which may help with your current problem

if you want the list just let me know
N Atkins

The radiator was only put on a year and a half ago and a full flush was carried out then and new hoses were added and since then the car has hardly been anywhere.

I am thinking it might be the clutch release bearing so think I will need to borrow an engine hoist and get the engine and gearbox out. (Mick do you still have an an engine hoist I can borrow I will bring your carbs back)

One other question is it ok to do a compression test on an engine with no exhaust manifold or carbs etc?
C Carter

flushing the engine and heater matrix individually is often forgotten but now I'm labouring the point so will shut up

all the best with the clutch/gearbox problem
N Atkins

Its a fair comment I will be sorting out the heater matrix as needs to come off the car for a little paint touch up so will flush it out then.
C Carter

Chris -- yes no probs
Mick - still wiring!!

Cheers Mick would it fold down and fit in my 106?
C Carter

and engine

clean, flush, back flush, flush again

if it's not been done for a while you'll be amazed at the crud that can be inside, and keep clearing out the engine drain plug apeture as you flush to keep the water flow rate up and crud out

brush and reseal the matrix and then either your left leg will burn or if you close the flaps your head will get too hot with the roof up
N Atkins

Thanks I will be flushing the engine now that everything is out of the way from it I will flush it till the water runs clear then hopefully no over heating issues will arise in the summer.

Not sure if you saw my earlier question or not. Can I run a compression test without the exhaust manifold or inlet manifold on the car? As the throttle needs to be wide open for a compression test dont think the lack of an inlet manifold will matter but what about an exhaust? I am thinking it will make no difference as I am testing the compression in a cylinder nothing else? Am I right?
C Carter

This thread was discussed between 14/11/2011 and 18/11/2011

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

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