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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Temp sensor tube route

Photo is of the cluster of grometted holes in my scuttle bulkhead. But which one does the temperature sensor coiled tube go through? Mine connects to the radiator top so has quite a large tube nut which will need to feed through the bulkhead.

The panel shown is a replacement, the original having been badly rusted, so I cannot even be sure that the holes are correct for a MK 1 car. It may have been produced as a "generic" piece for all models. I don't think all of the holes will be needed as I can only think of starter cable, heater flap, rev counter cable (as in photo) and now the temp sensor. So which goes where?



GuyW

What about the oil pressure gauge pipe?

The starter cable must go through the hole in line with the starter switch mounting.
Chris at Octarine Services

Surely the temp bulb won't go thro' any of the holes on the photo?

And if the raised rectangular section is where the battery goes what is the hole below it for.
Nigel Atkins

If it’s of any use Guy it’s a MK2 and has been messed about with a lot so can’t vouch for originality but the sensor did fit through that hole


Mike Fairclough

Ah yes Chris. Oil pressure pipe to add to the list!
The hole nearest to a straight line for the starter pull is going to be the top right in my photo, so that's a start.

Nigel the temp bulb isn't the fattest bit - it would go through any of those holes. But the securing nut is much fatter and would only go through the larger hole at the bottom. That is what I currently have the rev counter cable through, as that wouldn't go through any of the others!😊

I don't know about the hole beneath the battery ridge. Remember this is a new replacement panel. I did wonder if it was for an earthing point bolt (positive earth car), but it's too large for that.

Thanks for that photo Mike. Sufficiently non standard that it doesn't confirm anything, but still useful as it suggest that more than one service could go through the larger bottom hole, which hasn't occurred to me.

Perhaps the temp tube goes through the very large grommet that takes the wiring loom above the A post? It certainly routes up the top of the footwell and would be long and flexible enough to go through there.

Incidentally Horler photos aren't very clear and what I can make out, varies on different models.
I inadvertently keep trying to zoom in on his photos with two fingers, as one would with a touch sensitive screen !
GuyW

Guy, these are the pre-drilled holes my shell came with but I think my old shell had a broken capillary so I'm not sure where it goes myself yet.


Bill Bretherton

From MG exp site - probably a US car as tach is wrong side !

#1 is for ign wire from the inside to the battery
#2 is for the heater motor wire
#3,7,8 are for brake clamp screws
#4 is for the starter pull
#5 is for the combination gauge temp and pressure lines
#6 is for the heater push-pull cable
#9 is for the ground commection from the battery
#10 is for the tach cable
#11 is for the wiper motor wire harness
#12 is for the windshield washer tube
#13 is for the windshield wiper push-pull cable


Chris at Octarine Services

Hi Guy

This is a shot of my car, pretty much what everyone else has said


Bob Beaumont

Bob, the thick black "wire", bottom right as I look at your photo - I assume is the tachometer cable? I didn't think the knurled nut would go through that one, but I could open it up a tad if that's the right place for it. Maybe it's just the paint that is stopping it.

Chris, thanks for that useful list. It confirms the wiper washer and wiring that I have done. Although for LHD I guess #2 and #10 would swap over.
GuyW

Guy

Does the tachometer cable have a smaller nut at one end?
Dave O'Neill 2

Yes it does Dave, and surprise! That's the end I am leading with through the bulkhead! But fair point.😀
GuyW

Guy, Yes the thick black 'wire' is the rev counter cable. As you have probably found out the instrument end nut just goes through the hole.
Bob Beaumont

Yes, it might have been stating the obvious, but the obvious is sometimes overlooked 🤣
Dave O'Neill 2

Guy,

'I inadvertently keep trying to zoom in on his photos with two fingers, as one would with a touch sensitive screen !'

I thought it was just me that did that - I feel better knowing I'm not alone !

R.
richard b

Fair enough Guy, the rev counter cable made the hole appear smaller to me than it actually is, I was counting the nut as it can't be removed.

The fresh air flap cable hole was one that got me too, I expect that's exactly where mine is but I never take notice.
Nigel Atkins

Well I have now swapped the rev counter cable over. The counter head end nut just wouldn't quite fit through the hole so I took it out to the next size up with a stepped cutter. It didn't need to cut much more than the paint thickness off. Tried it fitted in place and have now repainted around the cut edges so I can fit the grommet into place tomorrow.

New carb heat shield arrived from Ashley Hinton. Nicely made. Another puzzle to work out how the two extra metal stays locate. And what law is it that says whenever you order a list of parts, AFTER you place the order you always find there's something else that you forgot! Carb linkage springs !!! Grrr!
GuyW

The earlier heat shields didn't have the later stays but IIRC they're supposed to strengthen the shield from buckling or braking (from the three springs?).

I know on my 1275 engine one stay goes to the bellhousing and can be a pain to fit - and the other shorter one I can't remember but could go out and look on my car if you don't want to figure it out for yourself.
Nigel Atkins

One of the stays goes on the bellhousing. You need longer 5/16" set screw. Its the bolt just nearest to the block drain tap. Its retained by a 5/16 nut plain washer and spring washer

The front stay is retained in a similar fashion by lengthened 1/4" set screw. You may need to pack it out with washers to get the stay to line up nicely. Its retained by a nut washer etc. The stays do stop the heatshield buckling and flexing so worth installing.

Fit the shield and stays before the carbs and tighten it all up once the carbs are on.


Bob Beaumont

5/16" both stays on mine I think as I can't remember changing spanner.

I either did or intended to (can't remember which) cut to make a slotted end, rather than just a round hole, on the rear stay to make refixing to bellhousing easier.

As Bob's put easier to fit shield and stays without the carbs on, loose fit to line up as the shield and/or stays may need a bit of flex for fitting.

With the carbs in there's not a lot of space (particularly at the front IIRC) and a 1/4" ratchet socket on the nut underside is easiest (or nut to top side of shield if you want).
Nigel Atkins

Thanks both, I will take a look at that tomorrow.
GuyW

Guy,
you've probably already discovered this but in case not.

Whilst doing my twice-weekly dusting and polishing of the engine bay I had a look at the stays and setscrews that hold them to the heatshield. My apologies, I shouldn't go with my poor memory, the setscrews, nuts and washers that hold the shield to the stays on my car are 1/4" not 5/16".

The front stay goes to the engine mounting bracket and it wasn't so much the carbs that restricted the space as me leaving the K&N filters on.
Nigel Atkins

Yes Nigel, thanks, I have used 1/4" nuts and bolts for the heat shield ends. I have fitted the front stay, but they must vary by model as these would go no where near the front engine mount, but aligns nicely with one of the timing cover bolts. So that one is neatly fitted.
At the rear it's not lining up particularly nicely with anything, though it's not far off one of the bell housing bolts. An extra bend in the stay should sort that out.
GuyW

I think Nigel may have meant the engine frontplate rather than the engine mount bracket.
Dave O'Neill 2

Sorry Guy and thank you David, again another poor description from me, adding the word plate would have been nearer to what I meant. (I meant to put engine bracket and the word mounting slipped out of my tiny brain).

And yes they do need a bit of manipulating to fit, I think it's more the rear, hence the slotting, but I've got a feeling when I've done it before whether you fit the front or rear first the other one needs a bit of tension and bending, again why it's easier to install without the carbs and air filters fitted but even with the carbs and K&Ns fitted it only awkward.
Nigel Atkins

Both fitted now. Didn't need to take the carbs off again, though I don't have any filters fitted so plenty of space to work. Not sure if I have any air filter housings stored somewhere or not. Will send out a search party later.
GuyW

“Not sure if I have any air filter housings stored somewhere or not”

If you need any...😬
Dave O'Neill 2

Thanks Dave. Search party not reported back yet. In normal circumstances I would suspect he, er I mean they, might have deviated to the local pub!
GuyW

This thread was discussed between 14/04/2020 and 15/04/2020

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

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