MG-Cars.net

Welcome to our resource for MG Car Information.

Recommendations

Parts

MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Timing Cover Crankshaft Oil Seal

Ive taking the Timing Chain Cover off to investigate an oil leak. I suspect its from the oil seal. Ive done this before a couple years ago, and forgotten what pain in the a$$ it is!!!
On inspection, with the Crank Pulley removed, the seal is not fully fitted into the location in the Timing Cover, it looks like its starting to come out (go back towards the engine) and may have turned, and this is causing the leak.
There is also some damage on one of the seal lips, so a new seal will be fitted.
My question is; what holds this seal in place? Is it just a friction push fit, or should I bond it in place with some Hylomar or similar?
Last time I think I just push fitted it, but I dont want to end up doing this again. Any advice or suggestions.
T Holdsworth

It should be a tight push in fit.
No harm putting a smear of loctite round the outside if you're dubious about the fit.
Greybeard

Yep, and there's half a chance by the sound of it that the cover wasn't centred up and the pully pushed the seal back when it was pushed in.
When you refit the cover , get all the bolts started, then fit the pully to centre the cover up--then do the bolts up.

willy
William Revit

As Willy says, but add another step. With the timing cover bolts still loose and the crank pulley fitted, rotate the engine by hand a few times (plugs out) to centre the cover and then progressively and evenly tighten the cover screws.
GuyW

There y'go....!
Willie and Guy are all over it.
Honestly fellas, I don't know why you listen to me at all :)

Watch your fingers rotating the engine by the pulley. They bite.

(Crossmember).
Edit: meant to say Hylomar won't help much. It's a great sealant but it won't help retaining a seal in its seat as it's non-setting.
Also, at the risk of being a bit bleeding obvious, make sure the seal is the right way round. It's surprisingly common to find them ar*e-about-face.
Always good for a chuckle, that is.
Greybeard

Thank you all for your comments.
Ill not use a non-setting sealant to hold the Oil Seal in place, and Ill ensure the Timing Cover is centralised around the crank pulley before tightening the bolts.
Hopefully it will hold this time.
Im still amazed at the amount of engine ancillarys you have to remove to get access for the repair.
Exhaust manifold (as its an LCB)
Carbs (to get to the above)
Alternator (to get to the rear bolt on the engine mount)
Grill / Radiator / Fan (cos theyre in the way)
Starter Motor (to get to the Flywheel to stop the engine turning)
Distributor (to get the Starter Motor out)
All good fun!

Tim.
T Holdsworth

Good luck with the radiator bolts and especially the bottom hose!!!!!!

Jan T
J Targosz

"Starter Motor (to get to the Flywheel to stop the engine turning)
Distributor (to get the Starter Motor out) "

Not neccessary. Put it in gear, handbrake on hard.

As for the rest, it's an internal engine component. It's not too surprising there's a bit of 'srripping' to get to it.

And 'usually', -- it's not something that needs attention for 60/70/80 and more, thousands of miles.
anamnesis

Thank you for your comment @anamnesis, I tried that, but there was just too much 'spring' in the rotation to break the crank nut free.

As regards my comments about all the engine ancillaries, that was a supposed to be 'tongue-in-cheek', its always the same on small cars, one bit covers another!
T Holdsworth

Hi Tim,

The spring you notice when attempting to jar the pulley nut is caused by the the springs in the clutch friction plate. This isn't a problem if you are using a very long spanner but is with an impact driver or if, like me, you are hitting the end of your spanner with a big hammer.

Jan T
J Targosz

The solution to getting the pulley bolt undone is to put a socket on it with a long bar that rests on the chassis to the n/s of the engine. Then just press the starter button. Ignition off natch.
Les Rose

Yep that's a good way too Les. I achieve the same with a quick sharp bang with a hammer.

Anyway, all roads lead to Rome, but some roam, and take a detour. 😁.
anamnesis

A similar method is to lift the front of the car with a hydraulic jack, wedge a strong spanner to the floor and then drop the jack. May not be possible with a midget because of the cross member but what ever method is used care is essential.

Jan T


J Targosz

This thread was discussed between 21/06/2024 and 30/06/2024

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG Midget and Sprite Technical BBS is active now.