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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Titan HIF44 article from Chris H
Hi, I read this post with interest on fitting Titan manifold with HIF44, but can't access it to reply: http://www.british-cars.org/mg-midget-sprite-technical-bbs/su-hif44-201101231758112852.htm It referenced an article written by Chris H on lists all of the parts you need to fit, but I can't find it as the article has been replaced. The article is reference on the Black Country MG Owners club pages but the link is broken. http://www.bcmgoc.co.uk/article.html Does anyone have a copy? Many thanks, Tony |
A Heyworth |
Hi Tony We have had the Black Country MGOC website revived by a professional web designenr and somewhere along the line the article you refer to has 'disappeared'. I don't seem to have a copy so I will see if the link can be restored or else someone in the Club has a copy. Thanks for the interest. Chris |
Chris H (1970 Midget 1275) |
Yes please. I would like to see the article too. Pretty please. |
Mike Howlett |
Thanks Chris. Let's hope your new webmaster can turn it up! I have a Titan manifold and a HIFF44 - the previous owner said they fitted on his 1960 Sprite but is there any difference between bonnet clearance of the early Frogeye and the Mark IV? Tony |
A Heyworth |
Hooray - success. The link has been reinstated. For those interested here it is again; http://www.bcmgoc.co.uk/article1.html Any further questions, just ask. Chris |
Chris H (1970 Midget 1275) |
Well done and thanks. Very useful article. |
Mike Howlett |
Chris, I agree with Mike. Great article. Thank you for finding it! Tony |
A Heyworth |
Chris, Thanks for the interesting srticle. I have just bought a HIF44 and I hope you, or some other poster, can answer some questions for me: What is the part number for the K&N filter Can a sub stack fit inside the filter. If so what part number. The part number for the threaded throttle cable support. Thanks in anticipation of your assistance, Doug |
Doug Plumb |
Doug It is too long ago for me to remember the K&N part number (if it is marked anywhere I will look for it). I just measured the space and found a filter that would fit. A stub stack would fit in my filter provided it was one of those very short, radius rounding jobs (but I don't have one myself - always intended to get one). I don't undertand your third question. What threaded throttle cable support? Do you mean the heatshield which incorporated a 'notch' for the cable to clip into? Chris |
Chris H (1970 Midget 1275) |
Hi Doug, I fitted a stub stack from Keith Calver under a deeper (approx 2.5") K&N filter. I have looked on his website but can't see it listed. Pic below shows the stub stack. I had to file away a very small ammount either side to allow it to fit within the posts inside the filter Thanks Mark |
Mark Whitmore |
And a side view of the complete assembley
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Mark Whitmore |
And one final one from a different angle
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Mark Whitmore |
Doug your third question Do you mean this bit? On my carb? I had that for years in my bitzbox I think mine used to belong to a [whisper]Triumph[/whisper] |
Bill 1 |
Chris, Question 3 was trying to refer to the white plastic support that the throttle cable sits in and can be seen in Mark's photos Mark, Thanks for the very clear photos. I contacted K&N, estimating the filter was 95mm deep and they responded by confirming that the 83mm deep version has been discontinued. I will now ask them about a 60mm version. The Calver stub stack looks like it should be very useful. However, I recall that there should be a minimum distance from the stack to the filter case to allow free air flow. Think it should be 1.5 x the carb size but maybe someone more qualified can confirm this requirement. Doug |
Doug Plumb |
Mark. I notice that you haven't utilised the water pipe that goes through the manifold and have bypassed it by using the original route from the heater back to the bottom hose. But, I see that there is a hose being used through the manifold. Am I right in thinking it's for the breather, as it looks as if that's where it is going to? If so, nice one. It's very neat. Wish I'd thought of that. Most people just leave the manifold heater pipe sitting there redundant. I hope you don't mind if I nick your idea. Bernie. |
b higginson |
Bernie, From the archives [Aug 2009], I note you raised the idea to have a batch of Spridget friendly inlet manifolds produced by Titan. Did you go ahead with it as I may be interested at a reasonable price? |
Doug Plumb |
What's the argument for not using the manifold waterway for the purpose it was designed for? Guy |
Guy |
Bill, Thats the part I am interested in. Minispares list the following cable: http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?ty=pb&pid=35088&title= but it appears the pedal end is not Spridget pedal friendly. |
Doug Plumb |
Guy, I have always understood it is better for the air / fuel mixture to be cool rather than warm. Your filter looks like a K&N, which part number? |
Doug Plumb |
Doug. Titan were going to do a batch for me, but the price depended on how many I wanted. The more I ordered the cheaper they would be. I initially got a good response from people on here, but when push came to shove I had an over 50% drop out which meant that those left in were going to have to pay about £80 each for the manifolds. That also didn't go down too well with people concerned, so I reluctantly had to abandon the idea. Luckily for me I came across a Minisport manifold for a tenner at a car show which I had the face machined to tilt it back a bit to clear the bonnet and it works great with the HIF44 and I have been using it with the pipe being used to run the coolant through it, so I don't know if it would actually work better using the original pipework and leaving the manifold unheated. Bernie. |
b higginson |
Hi Doug, I had a dig through my old receipts and found the one for the K&N filter. It was from Minispares and has the product code: 56-9135 (link below) http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?ty=pb&pid=33663&title= The throttle cable that I used was the Metro one in your link and I don't think that I had any issues fitting it at the pedal end (organ type) The stub stack from Calver ST had the ref number CST1023 and was around £16.00 and I did some research at the time and found that there was enough clearance with the K&N filter I used. Hi Bernie, you are correct I used the manifold to route the vacuum/breather pipe to the other side of the carb. Not quite sure why I did it that way! It could be that there is an argument that heating the manifold causes a drop in power (however small). But in hindsight I've discovered that if you need to remove the carb/manifold you dont have to drain down. No probs if you wish to use this method. Thanks Mark |
Mark Whitmore |
Doug, Cool air is more dense, so can hold a greater charge of the fuel/air mixture. I guess that would improve power output, getting more "Bang" into the cylinders. So from that I infer that the heated pipe is to get a leaner mixture and more economy? I never thought of that before, I just connected it up the way it was designed! (actually, for the more observant -it isn't connected in that photo, but was later. You can see the previous chromed water pipe at top of the photo) Yes its a K & N, but I don't know the part number. It was originally one of those large oval ones designed to go onto a pair of SUs. When I switched to the HIF I reused the same K & N filter and front cover, just making a new backplate to match the single carb from a piece of ally sheet - that's what you can see in the photo. Guy |
Guy |
Bernie, Shame about the Titans but I suspect you can get the machining done for less than £70. Just as a matter of interest, how many orders did you need to get the £80? Mark, Thanks for locating the part numbers as that helps when trying to order etc. Doug |
Doug Plumb |
I use the "through the manifold" pipe to run the heater, I get easy starting hot or cold (cold just a second or two of choke) and good fuel economy with a car fast enough to enjoy on the road. I'd not change it because of rumoured possibilities Rover MG were happy enough to sell zillions of Metros plumbed that way They had almost legendary fuel figures too I think I'm on about 45+ mpg as she is, under my leaden feet Doug the cable will disassemble easily if you want to unscrew the orange plastic doohickey that would stop you dropping the cable outer into the sleeve on the tunnel roof that the Midgets cable sits in. Then just slip the inner back into the outer, not a difficult task It's all that is different about it but I never used a Mini cable, I am simply using the original Midget cable from Joe's Spares Shoppe the adapter I use (and I see Guy has posted a picture of a similar one on his? car) |
Bill 1 |
Doug The white plastic 'bit' that slots into the heat shield is moulded onto the outer casing of the MG Metro throttle cable and is not a separate item. I gave the part number in my articles, namely "Metro part NAM7912 or Mini Cooper part SBB10099". The picture from the Minispares website looks like what you want (and has the right part number) but I've never seen that orange bit before - I would just pull that bit off! However, so long as you get a throttle cable for a car fitted with a HIF44 you should be OK. Mine was a straight swap but in any case you could always swap the inner cable if there was a problem. The fit of the Metro cable is a bit tight across the heater trunking so I had a version made up around 3-4 inches longer by a specialist but it was not as smooth as the original Metro part. |
Chris H (1970 Midget 1275) |
"""It's all that is different about it but I never used a Mini cable, I am simply using the original Midget cable from Joe's Spares Shoppe the adapter I use (and I see Guy has posted a picture of a similar one on his? car)""" - is simply a way of giving me some adjustment without keeping on unscrewing the ferrule on the carb if I ever need to Only needed to once after a change of gasket [Edit to show wot I missed sending earlier] |
Bill 1 |
This thread was discussed between 07/03/2011 and 14/03/2011
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