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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Toe in set up - driving me mad!!

All - After what feels like hours tweeking and measuring I have had to come here for your worldly advice.
After refitting the head after a HGF and all the assorted jobs I notice the front wheels have worn on the inside edge. No issues, just a turn or two on the rods. Balanced a beam across the wings, fitted a plumb bomb and away I went. Near side no problem - just a slight toe in - 1 mm. Off side - after multiple turns it seems still to be in by 5mm at the top.

Do I take it for a quick spin, lift the car up or down or ???????
I have been turning the rod out of the ball joint which should push the top out but it seems to be doing nothing

HELP
Dave
D Price

Dave

It doesn't push the TOP out- that would be camber angle. It moves the wheels inwards or outwards when measured half way up at front then rear of rim. THAT is toe-in or tracking. You need a tracking gauge not a plumb bob. Simple gauge is piece of wood, slightly less than internal track width of wheels, with two uprights having wood screws at half wheel height that can be screwed against rims.
Bill Bretherton

Perhaps you have a frozen/seized TRE or other joint?

You could check to see if the TRE look the same and are about even threads out or in, in case your steering wheel is off centre.

I tried the bit of string rear to front but my eyes were good enough so I got it about right and left it to tyre time. First time it was just about spot on but next time it was off so I've never bothered since.

There a JT video that I think makes it seem more of a farting about PITA job than playing with string. - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PIkDgXsPMzQ

There are other videos but on none of them is the car taken to proper test equipment to prove how spot on or not the settings actually are and I doubt some do enough miles to unevenly wear the tyres anyway.
Nigel Atkins

Nigel

Please read the OP and my post again. I was trying to address what appears to be a lack of understanding on how to measure tracking or toe in. Dave seems to think that TRE adjustment moves TOP of wheels in and out.
Bill Bretherton

Bill,
I wasn't cutting across you I was just giving general info to Dave's, I thought you covered your bit well, and I posted the link to the JT method that explains and (poorly) demonstrates toe-in as well.

And as always I put the other possible side/opinion of such engineering/mechanical jollies as being farting about PITA.

I know I'm in the vast minority which such an opinion here but some readers might think it's worth the hassle-money to pay someone else to do it.

I bet there's loads of jobs (not car related but maybe) that you pay hassle-money for someone else to do rather than you doing it.

Obviously Dave thinks it's worthwhile and good luck to him, and well done to you for pointing out a possible mistake.

I invite you to bring your piece of wood and screws to show me how it's done properly, I've issues with garage roof clearance but wrap up warms as it a bit nippy now and the wind can be high as were at the top of a hill, so weight the wood so it doesn't blow over. If we need to do anything with the engine running I have an excellent ventilation system, depends a bit on wind direction. I'm good at watching. 😁
Nigel Atkins

Nigel

A metal gauge would be much better as it's much firmer, so probably more accurate, but the wooden one gives you a start. The fancy gauges at tyre places are only as good as the operator.

We actually have our newer modern serviced at a dealer as I want the software update (plus they include 12 months breakdown/ European recovery).
Bill Bretherton

I use one of these

https://www.gunson.co.uk/techtorque/Gunson-Trakrite-Wheel-Alignment-Gauge

It's a bit more expensive than a piece of wood but it seems to work well.

If you want an explanation of the piece of wood method, you could do worse than watch John Twist's video.

https://youtu.be/PIkDgXsPMzQ

Bob
R.A Davis

I also have used a Trakrite gauge for years and it works every time. But as Bill said it sounds to me that Dave is expecting the TREs to adjust the camber rather than the tracking.
Mike Howlett

ARRRRGGGHHHH - when I was fiddling I knew something was wrong but I just kept steaming ahead getting more and more lost and confused. A fresh cup of tea and a new morning - lets try again - thanks all.
Dave
D Price

Bill,
I totally agree with you but then the TREs aren't really micro adjusting as you have to work to fully revolutions.

The old hang on the wheel red light jobs needed a bit of care, I don't know about the more complex 4-wheel computer stuff now.

I remember seeing that drive-over-it-a-few-times plate about 20 years ago and the chap using it thought it was very good. It was about that time I think that if you wanted very good suspension geometry you were best to go to a Porsche dealership as they'd had so much training because they needed to sort issues with their latest model IIRC, so much for the quality of German engineering. 🤣
Nigel Atkins

"TREs aren't really micro adjusting as you have to work to fully revolutions"

Eh? Why do you have to turn the track rod full revolutions? Loosen the lock nut and turn the rod a little at a time allowing it to rotate within the rack boot.
Mike Howlett

🤣 Doh! Thanks Mike.

I almost posted about how I'd made three embarrassing stupid mistakes (that I know of) over the last couple of days and how one was resolved after a mug of tea, but the other two will be after many mugs more. Now it four mistakes, at least.

Sorry, as often happens I wasn't thinking straight and doing two things at once, and balls both up, I was counting the turns back on and stopping there, forgetting what job was being discussed, they're not likely to turn that much fixed to the steering arms, time for a mug of tea.

Nigel Atkins

This thread was discussed between 25/10/2021 and 26/10/2021

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