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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - uprated dampers

I bought exchange 30% uprated front dampers from Peter May when I rebuilt my front suspension. Now that I am rebuilding the rear suspension I want to uprate the rear dampers by 30% to match the fronts.
Vehicle is off the road.
As the rear dampers are good, I thought that I would have a go at uprating them myself.
I bought new valves from Moss which are supposed to uprate by 25% and I also purchased penrite damper oil No. 2.
Two questions.
Firstly, will this combination give the desired
'30 %' uprate and how do I go about it. Moss salesman did not know what to do and there is nothing in the workshop manual.
Is it just:
Remove large bolt with existing valve assy
Tip damper up to empty out existing oil
Fill with new oil
Fit new large bolt with new valve assy
Always best to ask before rather than after !
Thanks.
steve

don't do it!

for the best handeling midget you need a soft rear end.
so nice old soft shocks are fine

o Könemann

As Könemann writes - don't do it.

I'm racing a Midget, and a stiff front end handles perfect with a soft rear end.

When cornering you lift one front wheel, but keep both rear tyres on ground.
Ole Aaen

It may not get you exactly 30%, depends on the damper oil, but I doublt your going to notice if its 28.5% or 30.778%....the fact is it will stiffen up the rear dampers substatially and depending on applications of the performance perpose, O KOneann, makes a valid point...but hay give it a a try...you got the parts, if you dont like it ...its completely reversiable

I have uprated shocks rated at 20-30%...and I love my set-up...But I got other suspension mods that compliment it.

prop
Prop

Stiffness of each end of the car should be governed primarily by the spring and anti roll bar rates as dampers only provide a transient effect, stiffening an end of the car during roll but once steady state is achieved the spring/ARB are what controls the show. Personally on my frogeye after adding a stiffish front ARB, I reduced the rear spring rates slightly, removal of leaves, and added a rear ARB to get the balance I wanted for road and occasional hillclimb use.
David Billington

Different car but same principles.

On our Minor we have uprated torsion bars (~+25%), 3/4" anti-roll bar and +30% re-valved Koni's on full hard at the front, and softened 7-leaf springs (lowest leaf turned upside down and put on the top), 5/8" anti-roll bar and standard valved Koni's on full soft at the rear. Poly bushes everywhere front and rear.

Very firm, but not harsh, and very nice balance with good 'turn-in'.

Steve,

Uprating the rear dampers is worth a try, but I would expect the ride to be quite harsh, without any real improvement in handling as such.

Be interested to hear the outcome.

Richard
Richard Wale

At the front car has lowered and stiffened (400 lbs) springs, 11/16 roll bar with solid mountings, nylatron bushes and 30% uprated dampers.
For the rear I have ordered lowered rear springs (If they ever arrive) and intend to fit nylatron bushes. My assumption was that I needed to fit uprated dampers. Car will be used mainly for road going spec competition so mods are limited, with maybe ocassional short trips on the road.
Do you still think it best to use standard damper settings ?
If so I will keep the bits required for an assessment at some time in the future.
Thanks
Steve

Peter Caldwell of WorldWide Auto Parts, the world's foremost rebuilder of Armstrong shockers, STRONGLY recommends NOT to use thicker oil in the shocks. It will destroy the guts of the shock. Valving is the only way to do it safely. Besides, as noted above, it isn't really what you want.
David "shocking news" Lieb
David Lieb

Thanks for all the help.
Good job I asked, saved me a job too !
Steve

Richard

" ...and softened 7-leaf springs (lowest leaf turned upside down and put on the top)..."

How does this work?

Chris
Chris H (1970 Midget 1275)

The early Minors had 7-leaf springs and an easy way to soften them, and lower the ride height at the same time, is to take off the bottom (shortest) leaf, turn it over 180° and re-assemble it on the top of the remaining 6 leaves.

First did it almost 40 years ago and it's been working well ever since!

Don't know if it is applicable to a Spridget, but might be worth a try? Might even work on 1/4 elliptics? Just take off the top leaf and re-assemble the spring with it inverted on the bottom this time.
Richard Wale

David is way to modest as to his experience with Spridget shocks. His Midget is one of the quickest cars on the autocross I've ever seen, within a tic of a full out race car at this year's Spridget 50 meet. He runs adjustable lever shocks that are available from Peter Caldwell front and rear. Gives him the ability to adjust the shock rate from full hard to soft with just a twist of a screw. Even with the shipping at todays exchange rate these should still be a good buy for you guys in England. Check them out at http://www.nosimport.com/


Bill Young

i don't see adjustable ones on this site
arnold

They do not show up on the site, but Peter's email address does. Email him and express interest. BTW, it is a good idea to paint at least the exterior lines on the adjustable shocks as they tend to rust easily.
David "adjustable shocks mean that many more ways to get it set up wrong... until you start to feel the difference" Lieb
David Lieb


Can the adjustables be used with a Peter May top link kit? http://www.petermayengineering.co.uk/specialistProducts.htm
a borris

I asked Peter about that specifically and he said yes, but he needs to know that the kit is fitted so he can make the lines long enough to fit the adjustment vavle on top of the kit.
Bill Young

This thread was discussed between 01/09/2008 and 04/09/2008

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

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