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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - What's your bleeding advice?

To cut a long story short, I've just had to bleed my entire braking system. This was probably a good idea as it means I've changed the brake fluid (last changed 2-3 years ago). My question is this - is there a correct order to bleeding the brakes? I started at the front and then turned to the rears. However, something in the back of my mind said I should have done it the other way around - or does it not matter in the slightest?
Chris H (1970 Midget 1275)

Start from.the farthest from the master cly and work in

Ii just get 10 feet of clear V. Tubing.. hook up one end to the bleed valve the other end i put in the matser cly below the fluid Level, and just slowly pump the peddle while watching the air bubbles in the Clear V. Tubing... When there gone....shut the bleeder off and on the next

Simple, cheap and easy

Prop
Prop and the Blackhole Midget

Oh well; so much for the EasiBleed I bought just before this thread happened.

This sounds great Prop: and I think you only have 2 obvious typo mistakes - well done, good progress ;-)
Dave Squire - Notts

easibleed for me :-) and furthest first, nearest last.
David Smith

Chris,

Among the best additions to my tool shed was one of these bleeders: http://www.motiveproducts.com. There are all kinds of so-called 'E-Z bleeder' widgets, but this well-made setup has paid for itself a dozen times when bleeding not only the midget, but my wife's Volvo C30, my Subaru wagon, the neighbor's Toyota truck, my old '86 Mercedes 300... good tool!

You simply pour fresh fluid (from a sealed container) into it, screw down the lid, attach it to your master cylinder, pump it up to 10~12 p.s.i. (or the equivalent bar), then walk around the car and bleed away. You might have to add a stroke or two to maintain the pressure, but that's pretty much it.

They now make an adapters for the original 25mm cap used on the single master cylinder, http://motiveproducts.3dcartstores.com/Classic-British-Adapter-1110_p_110.html. Of course, this will work with the clutch master cylinder, too.
They also make one for the 3" cap dual cylinder used on later cars, which I updated to on my '67 1275 Midget, http://motiveproducts.3dcartstores.com/Lockheed-3-ID-Adapter_p_66.html.

Looks like they have other adapters for Wilwood, Girling, etc.

Two tricks: (1) when positioning the bleeder, put it atop a tall stool or something like that, so it's higher than the master cylinder; and (2) when you release the pressure, do it fairly slowly. Usually, it will siphon out the extra fluid and you end up with a perfect level in the cylinder. Oh, and careful when you remove the screw-on cap after bleeding, as it will retain some fluid that will run out onto your fender!

Joel
JM Young

I use a clear plastic tube, a jam jar and a grumbling Wife to pump the pedal, works well for me every time.
Pete Ottewell

Pete: Your message explains alot... and there was I grumbling that I had to sit in the car and do the pumping of the pedal
David Cox

Prop,
The problem with your method is that you're recirculating the fluid. Whilst you may well be removing the air, you won't be removing the moisture that's in the fluid.
Lawrence Slater

Yup - Pete's method is the age-old way of doing it, and what I learned as a tyke working in the local garage. Only difference is that I was tasked with pumping the pedal while the 'real mechanic' went around to each wheel doing the bleeding. I think they paid me in soda pop back then.

I've not got a lovely fiancee to help if I wanted to do it that way, but if you're on your own the Motive power bleeder is sheer bliss.

Joel
JM Young

Prop's method isn't even removing air, he's simply popping it neatly back into the fluid reservoir.

To recirculate the poor benighted system with frothy, airy bubbles.

8(

Eezibleed every time.
Bill1

Thanks David - you, at least answered my question. I wasn't asking how to bleed so much as whether there was an order (rear first, front last etc.)
Chris H (1970 Midget 1275)

I bought a gunson Eazibleed thing - bottle full of fluid pressurized by tyre or compressor, thence connected to master cylinder.

Essentially a total failure. The master cylinder did not hold the pressure - despite the seal atop it seemingly being sound - and nasty brake fulid spilled over down the inside of the wind and leeched out onto the paintwork via the seam below - arrgh.

Personally, I think they operate at much too high a pressure for such an old and knackered system. Yes, I could turn the pressure down, but you still need some to force the master cylider fluid through....Maybe just my rubbish seal, but Iam not going to try again!

Tried and tested method is the 5 quid thing from Halfords - bit of tube with a one way valve. Open nipple, pump until free of air buubles and until good resistance is felt - tighten nipple. Pretty simple really...
Mark O

I've used the Eezibleed for years. The only real problem I had with it was when the m/c on my B developed a pin-hole in the top and sprayed a jet of fluid all over the wing.

I also had a problem where I couldn't get the cap to seal on one m/c. In cases like these, I don't put any fluid in the bottle, just use it to pressurise the master cylinder with the fluid that is in there. I just need to stop and check the level more often, but it works fine.
Dave O'Neill2

I have had poor sealing with Eezibleed but as I also have a huge box of O rings I simply worked at it to improve the airtightness.

And work with a lower than normal tyre pressure.

Mine is the early version with a large bag of assorted caps too. With extra sealing washers too, the bag is so old it's almost mummified.

Chris, fair do's to Prop, he did tell you to start from farthest away.

even if...
Bill1

EZ BLEED everytime... although you may find you still have air in the brake pipes which go from the master up and over the bulk head... very bad design IMO... if you have a pressure bleed on it you will need to tap these pipes with a spanner or something to help dislodge the air....

you could always use a vacuum bleeder and bleed from the other end.. they work very well in my opinion - but you have to be quick topping up the fluid cos it goes out quick!
C L Carter

Dave O

Thanks for the tip! - I'll try it with the brakes....My experience was with the clutch m/c...
Mark O

I usually use Prop's method (though I think of it as Growler's method, of course.) Then again I pop the pistons out of the cylinders and clean out the grit and dust every time I change my brake fluid, so the system is pretty empty- not much recirculating of old fluid happening.
Growler

This thread was discussed between 05/10/2012 and 08/10/2012

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