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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Windscreen frame screw problem

I'm attempting to fit the windscreen frame (with glass) to the Frogeye. One of the lowest threaded holes for the stanchion screw is misaligned in the windscreen frame. I can force the screw in and it tightens but it then twists the stanchion. If I keep it slack whilst I attempt to mount the screen on the car it will pull out and not then fit.

I can either elongate the hole in the stanchion which would show or fill the offending hole with JB Weld and attempt to drill and tap a new hole. Which is best or is there a better solution?
Bill Bretherton

Bill,

Do you mean the small cross head screws or the stanchion to scuttle bolts and screws?
Bob Beaumont

Bob, the small cross head screws. One of the lowest ones in this case. Strangely, the threaded hole in the screen frame is misaligned to one side as if it's been re-made by some PO.
Bill Bretherton

When I fitted mine, I attached one stanchion to the body with its 2 bolts, but only loosely. Then fastened the screen to that, with 3 little cross heads, again loosely. Then moved to the other side to fit stanchion #2 to screen and to body, loosely screwed. Only then did I go round progressively tightening them all up.

Doing it this way avoided waving the screen around with stanchions attached and liable to do some paintwork damage on the far side as I was focused, juggling screen stanchion, rubber gasket and bolts whilst trying to get a thread started!
GuyW

Ah OK

These are a challenge in some cases!. A couple of mine either didn't fit or the threads in the frame were U/S. My approach was to fit the screen frame to the stachions with the a couple of the small screws loosely fitted. Note the frame should be sealed into the stanchion. When I stripped mine it had a white mastic sealant a bit like seam sealer beween the stanchion and the frame. It had gone rock hard and crumbled away. I guess this is to stop rain water getting round the frame and rattles.
Fit the complete screen to the car and nip up the main stanchion bolts. There is a bit of adjustment here and its useful to fit the sidescreens so the rake of the screen lines up neatly with the front edge of the sidescreen. When you are happy you can tighten the stanchion screws and the stanchion to frame screws. The tricky one may then hold. I got my stripped one to stay put with some locktight.
The stanchions effectively hold the screen tight anyway.

I see Guy has also posted on this. I had a helpful assistant which made it easier!
Bob Beaumont

Guy, Bob

Thanks, that really helps. Another thing, I have 4 spacers that fit under the stanchion bolts (into the scuttle) - do I use these?
Bill Bretherton

Hi Bill

Mine does not have any spacers. The set screws go through the stanchion then the rubber pad and then to the scuttle. The front screw goes into the captive nut , the rear one through the scuttle and locked by a 5/16" nut with a plain and spring washer. Not sure what your spacers are!
Bob Beaumont

Bob

I think I'm having brain fade! They're flat washers but quite wide - from Moss some time ago for the inside of the rear stanchion to body bolts I think.
Bill Bretherton

My stanchion fitting bolts are as Bob's. Captive nuts for the front and plain washer, spring washer and nut for the rear. The plain washer was quite large.

Finally fitted the steering column cowl and horn wiring on mine. It now hoots automatically when I go round corners. Was that an optional extra feature on these cars for Lake District twisty single track lanes? Not sure how best to disable that feature!
GuyW

Guy, yes my front bolts go into captive nuts so I only need two of the flat washers.

It sounds as if the horn brush is somehow contacting earth.
Bill Bretherton

Bill, This is before fitting the horn brush! I think that when I tighten the steering wheel nut down, the wheel itself is contacting the brass ring on the cowl. Its as if the steering column is too short, or more likely, the dashboard is mounted too high up! Needs some investigation!
GuyW

Ah, I see! Yes, it does sound like the dash is a bit too far out.
Bill Bretherton

Only peripherally relevant, but I have had to restore all the threaded holes in the screen frame because they stripped. Not having the correct Helicoil (and the holes are very shallow anyway), I made steel inserts which are must more robust than the aluminium.

Les
L B Rose

Thanks Les, those threads are quite weak!

I've spent a couple of hours on it and have one stanchion attached with the screen screwed to it but on the other side the rubber is holding the screen up too much. I've pushed out the flap of the seal with a plastic spatula. I have the screen to scuttle seal extending right under the stanchions - am I supposed to trim a bit off this and, if so, which bit/ how much? I'm assuming the Frogeye doesn't need ratchet straps to pull it down? Another awkward job!
Bill Bretherton

Bill, you might gain a bit by removing the rear stanchion bolts and slightly slacken the front ones. I think from the geometry of it if you then pivot the whole screen forward the clearance across the scuttle should increase and you should then get both sides started and connected up. Then pull back on the screen to compress the rubbers and get the rear bolts to line up.
GuyW

Thanks Guy but the rear bolt aren't actually screwed in, only located. However, I'll try tilting the screen forward to get the front bolts in and work from there.
Bill Bretherton

Windscreen now fitted as good as I'll get it. Tilting it forward, as you said Guy, allows the front bolts to go in then screen is pulled back and rear bolts go in. I could maybe do it in 10 minutes now! This was a screen I acquired from a friend and the frame had been painted silver for some reason. I think chrome / stainless looks better but it will do for now.


Bill Bretherton

looks great. Not long now..............
Bob Beaumont

Yep, good progress Bill

And I also fixed my erratically automatic horn. Works just as it should now. Beep beep!
GuyW

Bob, Guy

Thanks and glad the horn works properly Guy.

Actually I have another unexpected problem! I was intending to fit the demister vents and noticed that Frogeye Spares (who built the basic shell including scuttle) had drilled the screw holes in front of the vent slits rather than behind. I could have put dummy screws or small blanks in them but decided to remove the screen and fill and paint over the holes. I have a touch up gun on loan and some leftover paint mixed so will blow it in. Another delay though......
Bill Bretherton

Odd mistake to make!
GuyW

Yes, you'd think they'd have standard templates. It's quite annoying and not the only problem I'd had with this shell, as you may recall. It had to go back twice for fairly major work and still wasn't right. It really is better to do it all yourself I think.

Let's hope the seats fit!
Bill Bretherton

I've been doing other jobs on the car and have been away but now back to the screen. I removed it to make wiper, washer and screen vent fitting easier. On refitting the screen I noticed that the stanchions are pulling outwards at the top when fully tightened, easily enough to pull the stanchion to frame screws out. Several mm each side. The sideways angle at the base of the stanchions is presumably causing this. I could put spacers under the outside of the stanchion bases but the rubber pads may not then seal.

Suggestions please for best solution.
Bill Bretherton

That sounds like another significant problem with your Heritage body? Is it that the curve where the scuttle blends into the top of the A post is the wrong angle?

I imagine one possible solution is to grind the aluminium base of the stanchions to correct the angle. It perhaps wouldn't take much, given the ratio of the height and width of the stanchions. How far out is it at the top?
GuyW

Guy

Basically, the stanchions pull outwards as the bolts are tightened, (up to 10mm say) depending on tightness. I did test fit the screen some time ago, without the screen to body rubber, and it seemed ok. I haven't trimmed the rubber but just let it run under the stanchion bases at each end and I'm wondering if excess rubber is enough to change the angle. I'll have another look at that now but it's so hot out there!
Bill Bretherton

Well I've improved it such that the stanchions are much closer at the top. The nearside is best. On the offside there's 2 or 3 mm gap. Nothing? The stanchion to frame screws are definitely pulling in the upper stanchion a few mm on the o/s. However, I did find that the tightness of the stanchion to scuttle bolts move the top of the stanchions in and out so its a bit of a juggling act. I think I'll leave it for now. Am I expecting too much precision?

I could put some JB Weld between top of stanchion and frame - good idea?
Bill Bretherton

Sounds Ok to me Bill. I would align it all, then tighten the top stanchion screws first ( all 3 actually) and the stanchion to scuttle screws/ bolts last. But don't overtighten! Use the side screens fitted in place to check the screen angle.
GuyW

Bill

Sounds ok. Have you allowed for the sealant between the stanchion and the frame? It was what looked like putty when I stripped mine, a hard white compound. I suspect it was sealant that had gone hard over the years.
Bob Beaumont

Bob

I haven't applied any sealant yet but can see it needs something to stop rain. I suggested JB Weld as that would hold it firm but maybe too permanent.
Bill Bretherton

This thread was discussed between 29/06/2021 and 20/07/2021

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

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